2022 AR195 Audio Upgrade questions/opinions

[chrisinrockytop]

I hope you don’t have a bad amp or HU. Should be sufficient space. My wires are within 8” of the battery and don’t have that issue so I doubt it has anything to do with that.

One of my sets of RCAs I got from my scrap tv wire box and are pretty cheap. So I highly doubt it’s the quality of the RCAs. But higher quality rca is a pretty easy and cheap thing to try,

I’m at a loss. Some of the experts on the forum might have an idea. Have you tried calling Kicker support- those guys are great at fielding questions.

From the advice of someone I tried a rca jack from my phone to the amp (removing RCA’s from HU), it was crystal clear, no humming…so this tells me it’s either the RCA’s or it’s the head unit, what HU do you have? I’ve ordered some quality RCA’s, and also a ground isolator, gonna try those and if neither of those work then I’m at a loss and assuming it’s the HU.

 

[Farny]

From the advice of someone I tried a rca jack from my phone to the amp (removing RCA’s from HU), it was crystal clear, no humming…so this tells me it’s either the RCA’s or it’s the head unit, what HU do you have? I’ve ordered some quality RCA’s, and also a ground isolator, gonna try those and if neither of those work then I’m at a loss and assuming it’s the HU.

I have the stock Fusion MSRA70 that came with the boat. Glad to know your amp is good! Now you’ve got me thinking about upgrading the crap RCA’s I have on one of my amps.

If you have a 2022 - you should warranty with the dealer of the HU is bad

 

[Farny]

I have the stock Fusion MSRA70 that came with the boat. Glad to know your amp is good! Now you’ve got me thinking about upgrading the crap RCA’s I have on one of my amps.

If you have a 2022 - you should warranty with the dealer of the HU is bad

Head unit pics (pulled)

 

[chrisinrockytop]

I have the stock Fusion MSRA70 that came with the boat. Glad to know your amp is good! Now you’ve got me thinking about upgrading the crap RCA’s I have on one of my amps.

If you have a 2022 - you should warranty with the dealer of the HU is bad

The head unit worked just fine prior to install, I’m guessing they’d probably try and fight me on that aspect

 

[Farny]

The head unit worked just fine prior to install, I’m guessing they’d probably try and fight me on that aspect

I always tell my sales team “If you don’t ask you don’t get” ?

 

[chrisinrockytop]

I always tell my sales team “If you don’t ask you don’t get” ?

The new RCA’s and ground isolator should be here in next couple days, will see how that goes and go from there…hoping that resolves it cause if it’s the head unit I know it’ll be a headache

 

[212s]

Sounds like a bad ground somewhere. Since there was no hum before you upgraded, I'd double check all the grounds to make sure they're all tight. Also make sure the molex plug in the back of the head unit is inserted fully. It not likely but is possible the head unit worked fine through the speaker lines, but the low level outputs were bad from the factory.

 

[chrisinrockytop]

Sounds like a bad ground somewhere. Since there was no hum before you upgraded, I'd double check all the grounds to make sure they're all tight. Also make sure the molex plug in the back of the head unit is inserted fully. It not likely but is possible the head unit worked fine through the speaker lines, but the low level outputs were bad from the factory.

I’ve tried everything everyone has suggested, at this point I’m at a loss and really disappointed…

I tried grounding head unit with the amp tonight, no luck…I’ve tried different RCA’s, tried grounding amp to both batteries negative (individually), nothing…no clue at this point.

 

[chrisinrockytop]

Welp have to admit I feel like a DA for not trying this sooner, but discovered that this is only occurring on Bluetooth…AUX is great, radio is great, phone to different RCA’s on amp is great, so it’s something with the head units Bluetooth function. Tried another phone and it does same thing so not like it’s my phones Bluetooth…not sure what would cause this or if it’s even fixable other than trying a new HU, but at least I can stop with the different wiring setups/swapping things around etc. Appreciate everyone’s help!

 

[Farny]

Welp have to admit I feel like a DA for not trying this sooner, but discovered that this is only occurring on Bluetooth…AUX is great, radio is great, phone to different RCA’s on amp is great, so it’s something with the head units Bluetooth function. Tried another phone and it does same thing so not like it’s my phones Bluetooth…not sure what would cause this or if it’s even fixable other than trying a new HU, but at least I can stop with the different wiring setups/swapping things around etc. Appreciate everyone’s help!

Glad you finally have it nailed down. Who would have thunk! Nothing you did would have caused that. I’d warranty it and use AUX plug until the replacement comes in.

 

[chrisinrockytop]

Glad you finally have it nailed down. Who would have thunk! Nothing you did would have caused that. I’d warranty it and use AUX plug until the replacement comes in.

Yup, I’ll be interested to see how much they try and fight it since audio work was done but yea, nothing I could’ve done would have caused that.

 

[chrisinrockytop]

Got it wrapped up yesterday and most everything cleaned up

 

[Farny]

Got it wrapped up yesterday and most everything cleaned up

Excellent - congratulations on your upgrade! Send your sound test!

 

[chrisinrockytop]

@Farny @Hoyt @Pedrazaj1 @TXtraumaRN been reading a lot of your guys posts so hope you don’t mind I tagged you, is everyone running 2 batteries, or is anyone running 3? In some of the talk about 2 batteries seems like there’s some talk about dual bank chargers not working right or draining another battery and needing a breaker? Am I reading that right? I have a dual battery setup going with a NOCO 10x2 batteries are ran to a dual switch, powers to it and ground from 2nd battery grounded to stock battery, is that an issue? I thought that was correct but in reading some of the recent posts about ACR (not sure I have a full understanding what this is/does) and what not just questioned if I did something incorrect?

Question on the 2 vs. 3 battery comes from…I’ve added a 2nd 4 channel 1000 watt amp, so running cabin off 1 and towers off another, never had any issues as far as battery running down. Couple weeks ago decided I needed some bass so bought a Rockville powered 10” tube, added some bass (not enough) but after about your 5 it had definitely drained down my 2nd battery, which I knew adding a sub would run the risk of. However to solve the aforementioned not enough bass, I’ve ditched the Rockville tube and have a 10” sub in an enclosure and 1500 watt monoblock amp coming today, so I’m guessing that’s gonna draw even more juice than the Rockville tube did. So…questioning if a 3rd battery is best option (2nd battery is only 4 months old so I think I’m ok adding a twin), or ditching the 2nd battery deep cycle for a different 2nd battery that would be better?


TIA

 

[Hoyt]

@Farny @Hoyt @Pedrazaj1 @TXtraumaRN been reading a lot of your guys posts so hope you don’t mind I tagged you, is everyone running 2 batteries, or is anyone running 3? In some of the talk about 2 batteries seems like there’s some talk about dual bank chargers not working right or draining another battery and needing a breaker? Am I reading that right? I have a dual battery setup going with a NOCO 10x2 batteries are ran to a dual switch, powers to it and ground from 2nd battery grounded to stock battery, is that an issue? I thought that was correct but in reading some of the recent posts about ACR (not sure I have a full understanding what this is/does) and what not just questioned if I did something incorrect?

Question on the 2 vs. 3 battery comes from…I’ve added a 2nd 4 channel 1000 watt amp, so running cabin off 1 and towers off another, never had any issues as far as battery running down. Couple weeks ago decided I needed some bass so bought a Rockville powered 10” tube, added some bass (not enough) but after about your 5 it had definitely drained down my 2nd battery, which I knew adding a sub would run the risk of. However to solve the aforementioned not enough bass, I’ve ditched the Rockville tube and have a 10” sub in an enclosure and 1500 watt monoblock amp coming today, so I’m guessing that’s gonna draw even more juice than the Rockville tube did. So…questioning if a 3rd battery is best option (2nd battery is only 4 months old so I think I’m ok adding a twin), or ditching the 2nd battery deep cycle for a different 2nd battery that would be better?


TIA

Your batteries grounded to house battery is not an issue. Mine are done the exact same way. No worries there. You definitely need a good switch to isolate which batteries are drawing power from what. House battery should be left alone to power boat, and extra batteries to power sound system. So if you kill the sound system you can still get home. Best test for this is if the boat starts while on sound system setting..... You screwed up. Now for the Noco I've had no issues of it draining batteries. My Noco is old though, and the lights that say charged (red is charging green is charged) are always red, but if I multimeter it reads full charge. So I'm probably not the best to answer that, but I do multi test before every outing.
Now for the new amp/sub setup..... Yeah your probably gonna want another battery (3 total. 1 house, 2 sound) if you do long play periods at more then 1/2 volume. A sub is a battery killer for sure. Big towers are as well. You can easily add another battery to your current sound battery. Just wire the new one positive to positive, and negative to negative. That'll run them in parallel. Still only gives you 12volts but drains way slower because there is 2 of them. Also "ACH" is important. The higher the number the longer they last under load.

 

[chrisinrockytop]

Your batteries grounded to house battery is not an issue. Mine are done the exact same way. No worries there. You definitely need a good switch to isolate which batteries are drawing power from what. House battery should be left alone to power boat, and extra batteries to power sound system. So if you kill the sound system you can still get home. Best test for this is if the boat starts while on sound system setting..... You screwed up. Now for the Noco I've had no issues of it draining batteries. My Noco is old though, and the lights that say charged (red is charging green is charged) are always red, but if I multimeter it reads full charge. So I'm probably not the best to answer that, but I do multi test before every outing.
Now for the new amp/sub setup..... Yeah your probably gonna want another battery (3 total. 1 house, 2 sound) if you do long play periods at more then 1/2 volume. A sub is a battery killer for sure. Big towers are as well. You can easily add another battery to your current sound battery. Just wire the new one positive to positive, and negative to negative. That'll run them in parallel. Still only gives you 12volts but drains way slower because there is 2 of them. Also "ACH" is important. The higher the number the longer they last under load.

Wait so you don’t want the boat to be able to start on sound system setting? My current setup is 2 batteries, stock battery and added a 2nd deep cycle. They are ran to a dual switch (1/2/both), 1 is starting battery, 2 is deep cycle…when I launch I start and run the boat on 1, get to the sand bar and switch it to 2, if that dies then I’m done listening to music and I switch it to 1 when I go to leave. However I’ve cranked off 2 before when I’ve not listened to the music for very long, is that not the correct way to do that?

 

[Hoyt]

Wait so you don’t want the boat to be able to start on sound system setting? My current setup is 2 batteries, stock battery and added a 2nd deep cycle. They are tan to a dual switch (1/2/both), 1 is starting battery, 2 is deep cycle…when I launch I start and run the boat on 1, get to the sand bar and switch it to 2, if that dies then I’m done listening to music and I switch it to 1 when I go to leave. However I’ve cranked off 2 before when I’ve not listened to the music for very long, is that not the correct way to do that?

More then likely your draining both batteries equally in your situation. I could be wrong, but if the boat starts (stock it's on house battery) in your sound system switch setting that tells me your house battery is still being drained. Only true way to tell is multimeter test it under load and see if it's truly off.

So I have mine set like following:
A:House battery positive
*Starter and bilge pump direct to terminal
House battery negative
*All stock grounds, and one ground from ss1
B: Sound system 1 (ss1) positive
*4 Guage wire to ss2 battery
*4 Guage wire to Perko #1. Sound system 1 negative
*4 Guage wire to house battery negative
*4 Guage wire to ss2 negative
*0 Guage wire to distribution block
C: Sound System 2 positive
*4 Guage wire to ss1 positive
Sound System 2 negative
*4 Guage wire to ss1 negative

Now here's when mine gets tricky.....
Aerko switch #1 terminal
*positive from ss1
*0 gauge wire to distribution block(amps)
Berko switch common
*independently ran head unit power wire
Cerko switch #2
*all house battery connections that were stock except starter and bilge.

So what I have done is put all my sound system on Perko switch #1. This way on my #1 sound system only works. With head unit on the "common" terminal it works on either [HASH=6677]#1or[/HASH]#2 switch. All house functions (conext, blower, lights, etc etc) are on #2. So when I'm driving boat I'm on "All" position. So everything works. At sand bar I'm on #1 for only sound system. This way my house battery is always not used. Notice house battery is not hooked to Perko switch.... This is so I'm 100% positive it will not drain. Starter and bilge are direct to house battery. So yes it will always start. Even with battery switch off. Might be a crazy wiring, but it works for me and has yet to leave me hanging

Edit: What I really need to do is wire in 2 independent switches. That way there is no chance at all of battery splitting loads with house and sound system. Just haven't done that yet ??

 

[chrisinrockytop]

More then likely your draining both batteries equally in your situation. I could be wrong, but if the boat starts (stock it's on house battery) in your sound system switch setting that tells me your house battery is still being drained. Only true way to tell is multimeter test it under load and see if it's truly off.

Guess I’ll use a multimeter to double check…I have my emgine/starting wires, helm power, sound system etc all to the common, that means it works off battery 1 or 2, or both…if the switch is on 1 though those things are pulling from 1, if it’s on 2 it’s pulling only from 2, if it’s on both it will pull from both…that’s my understanding at least. I believe that’s right as a few weeks ago I had it on 2, amp started cutting out at higher volumes so I knew battery was dying, flipped to 1 out of curiosity and worked flawlessly, I then immediately cut the switch to off and went with no music until leaving where I switched to 1 and it fired right up.

 

[Hoyt]

Guess I’ll use a multimeter to double check…I have my emgine/starting wires, helm power, sound system etc all to the common, that means it works off battery 1 or 2, or both…if the switch is on 1 though those things are pulling from 1, if it’s on 2 it’s pulling only from 2, if it’s on both it will pull from both…that’s my understanding at least. I believe that’s right as a few weeks ago I had it on 2, amp started cutting out at higher volumes so I knew battery was dying, flipped to 1 out of curiosity and worked flawlessly, I then immediately cut the switch to off and went with no music until leaving where I switched to 1 and it fired right up.

Yep so sounds like yours it working correctly. I'm on my 3rd Perko switch. When they go bad they allow all to work. Screwed me once

 

[chrisinrockytop]

Yep so sounds like yours it working correctly. I'm on my 3rd Perko switch. When they go bad they allow all to work. Screwed me once

Ahhh gotcha, makes sense…so with that said, if I wanted to add a 3rd, just run it parallel off my 2nd battery and using “2” off my switch should run both of those, allowing me double the time, correct?

I have a 2 bank charger, I’ve read conflicting things about being able to charge 2 batteries in parallel off 1 bank, some seem to say it’s fine and others say no…any info on that from your experience?