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Yea I didn't remember it being that thick when I did my transducer, just wasn't sure if 1.5 would be too long especially for the top mount on the actuator.
Grab the 1" and the 1.5" and see which works better for you. Make sure you countersink, just a bit, the holes with a 3/4" countersink. Once you are a couple threads or more through the fiberglass, nothing longer will make any difference. Holding power is still the same. Plus the top of the acuator's has no pulling pressure, just upward pressure.
Otherwise you will chip the fiberglass and it could crack a bit. You just touch it lightly to flair it out ever so slightly before you put a screw in it. If you flair it out all the way through then the hole will be to big. I used a 3/4" countersink to flare it just a bit. Anytime you drill and put a new screw into fiberglass, especially the thicker ones it is recommended to do this.
Fiberglass doesn't expand like wood and it will chip.
Otherwise you will chip the fiberglass and it could crack a bit. You just touch it lightly to flair it out ever so slightly before you put a screw in it. If you flair it out all the way through then the hole will be to big. I used a 3/4" countersink to flare it just a bit. Anytime you drill and put a new screw into fiberglass, especially the thicker ones it is recommended to do this.
Fiberglass doesn't expand like wood and it will chip.
Here is my latest upgrade. Russ at Lectrotab had a set of 10x14 tabs made for my boat. I went with the auto leveling system. I will probably post a video later.
Question for you guys, does the base of the actuator come off where it attaches to the trim tab.... It seems like the holes for me to bolt it to the trim tab are on the wrong side. I would have to turn the actuator around and the wire would be up top which seems like a pinch point. Or if I cant take it off and turn it around did you drill new holes... I cant make it out in the picture.
Question for you guys, does the base of the actuator come off where it attaches to the trim tab.... It seems like the holes for me to bolt it to the trim tab are on the wrong side. I would have to turn the actuator around and the wire would be up top which seems like a pinch point. Or if I cant take it off and turn it around did you drill new holes... I cant make it out in the picture.
You can rotate the actuator... I thought the same thing until I realized I could spin it. Let me know if this doesn't make sense and we can talk through it.
You can rotate the actuator... I thought the same thing until I realized I could spin it. Let me know if this doesn't make sense and we can talk through it.
Wow I feel silly I figured that out to line up the top bracket but didn’t think to spin 180 to line up the bottom thanks! Glad I went straight to the forum instead of spending hours being frustrated! Thanks!
Wow I feel silly I figured that out to line up the top bracket but didn’t think to spin 180 to line up the bottom thanks! Glad I went straight to the forum instead of spending hours being frustrated! Thanks!
Don't feel silly man! Happened to me too! I figured out the actuator can be rotated after drilling two extra holes in my first bracket and cussing at Lectrotab under my breath for such a "stupid" design!
Ha yeah I have been there… I get super ocd, I learned today that from the curve at the top of where I mounted the trim tab to the ride plate is about 1/2 inch different on the port vs starboard side… so that was fun trying to figure out the best place to mount that’s even on boat sides!
Got my tabs installed yesterday. All that remains are the Battery, Ground, & Engine Sense wires. @Foobar you said, "The tabs automatically retract when you shut the engine down. (I did the optional ignition sensor wiring.)"
I could not find a single wire that sensed both engines were off. were you able to find a single wire that sensed both engines were off?
Where did you connect the sensor wire?
