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210 FSH - Lectrotab Trim Tabs

@Dixemon please let me know if you believe that I DON'T need to move the transducer, but according to photos I've seen on this forum it looks like the tabs go in the blue box area in this photo??? this will be installed on a 2020 FSH 210.

the top photo is my boat and the bottom photo is from a member on this forum that installed these tabs (not sure what year his FSH is).

where would I install my tabs if I keep the transducer where it is now?

thanks in advance for your help!!!
Here's a pic of where I mounted mine, not sure if it will be good yet until this weekend. As far as placment with the tabs this may be a good option.
@Botchco , is this where yours is mounted on the rideplate?
I bet you could shift that tab over enough to get the transducer mounted.
20200928_185105.jpg20200928_185059.jpg
 
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@wahoowah YES, after hearing about your tabs I want to install some too. I took the boat out last night for the second time and it the boat rides good, but can see where tabs would help distribute weight.

I saw there is a group buy right now for the following set:

CKSSAL10x14-8292 $992.00 (list price $2,206.00)
(kit to include: 2) S-BK-13 Actuators with 23’ cable, 2) T10x14-8292 Stainless tabs, 1) ALC-1 Auto Leveling control

which I think are the same ones you have?

Good to know about moving my transducer, but said that I have to drill and patch more holes!!!

So far I LOVE the boat, but can see why everyone wants to 252!!!
Yep, those are the ones. Glad to hear you're enjoying the boat!
 
@Dixemon please let me know if you believe that I DON'T need to move the transducer, but according to photos I've seen on this forum it looks like the tabs go in the blue box area in this photo??? this will be installed on a 2020 FSH 210.

the top photo is my boat and the bottom photo is from a member on this forum that installed these tabs (not sure what year his FSH is).

where would I install my tabs if I keep the transducer where it is now?

thanks in advance for your help!!!

Yep, those are the ones. Glad to hear you're enjoying the boat!
You can use a smaller tab. I put them on my FSH 210 with the ALC. Love them! transforms the boat. I think it could do with a much smaller tab. The tabs barely need to move to make a big change in the boat. The LED indicator barely moves between the top 2 bars with plenty of correction.
 
@Dixemon please let me know if you believe that I DON'T need to move the transducer, but according to photos I've seen on this forum it looks like the tabs go in the blue box area in this photo??? this will be installed on a 2020 FSH 210.

the top photo is my boat and the bottom photo is from a member on this forum that installed these tabs (not sure what year his FSH is).

where would I install my tabs if I keep the transducer where it is now?

thanks in advance for your help!!!
Not the best angle, and I lowered my transducer a little after taking this picture to get better readings at high speed, but you can see where I installed the tabs with the transducer on that side at least. No issues with side scan either, though I don't use that much in the gulf.
 

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Yes I have to agree Russ is super over there. I installed them last year on my 2018 242x and does not interfere with booster. It’s a perfect choice for a better ride.
 
Not the best angle, and I lowered my transducer a little after taking this picture to get better readings at high speed, but you can see where I installed the tabs with the transducer on that side at least. No issues with side scan either, though I don't use that much in the gulf.
Are you still happy with this setup? I'm picking up a new 210 fsh here in Ft Myers next week. Already purchased a garmin chartplotter/fish finder for it and contacted Russ at Lectrotabs. He's recommending the 14 inch wide tabs but said it could cause problems with transducer location, and that I could look at something smaller if needed. I'll be trying to navigate the shallow waters down here so the Garmin is somewhat important. That being said, the KeyWest boat I traded had Lectrotabs that I used frequently as well.
Any feedback you can provide on how the boat and fish finder are performing would be much appreciated.
 
Hi Guys I have enjoyed this forum. I read the whole thing. I have a Searay bow rider but quite interested in a 255 Yamaha FSH as I love fishing but live on Eastern side of Australia so all off shore here is quite wavy and swells are a constant. Even a few miles off shore - so my question is do the trim tabs help to manage the bow of the boat enough in swells that you can come back in a reasonable swell and be able to cruise over waves safely? Thanks
 
Hi Guys I have enjoyed this forum. I read the whole thing. I have a Searay bow rider but quite interested in a 255 Yamaha FSH as I love fishing but live on Eastern side of Australia so all off shore here is quite wavy and swells are a constant. Even a few miles off shore - so my question is do the trim tabs help to manage the bow of the boat enough in swells that you can come back in a reasonable swell and be able to cruise over waves safely? Thanks
I think in a decient swell you want to keep the bow up, not down which these wont help wtih. I Havent done this for for my 210 for that reason.
 
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Yes true you do need it up and that’s been my concern I gues buying one, as much as I love so much about the power, speed and look. I came back one time surfing down 6 foot waves but had a Haines Hunter (bit like a Grady Clarke)which is made for offshore
 
I ran the boat today.

- The tabs definitely help the boat get on plane faster and at a lower RPM. I can also stay on plane at a lower speed. I won't have it in larger seas until tomorrow. I will provide feedback on that later.

- The boat with no steering system (Cobra or JBP) has some bow wander at low speeds. With either the JBP or Cobras the bow wander was reduced. With the trim tabs and the JBP fins there is ZERO bow wander. Straight as a damn arrow.

- I only did limited testing on this as it was just me on the boat, but I did notice the ALS automatically correcting the list if I moved to one side of the boat.

- The ALS does automatically deploy the tabs during the hole shot. Once on plane they retract and level the ride.

- The tabs automatically retract when you shut the engine down. (I did the optional ignition sensor wiring.)
I test drove a 2022 210 FSH Sport. I tried to get up on plane using 1 engine. It would not plane.
With the tabs, have you tried to get up on plane with 1 engine?
 
I test drove a 2022 210 FSH Sport. I tried to get up on plane using 1 engine. It would not plane.
With the tabs, have you tried to get up on plane with 1 engine?

Are you kidding me? you were only running on one engine at that speed? You should NEVER run on one engine except at a few mph, if that in an emergency and preferably with the cooling intake hose crimped off. Wow.... And the dealer let you do this, if he did he is a moron? That is how you could destroy the second engine, by Hydrolocking it with water. I recommend you read up on Yamaha twin engine jet boats and running only on one engine, to understand on why you NEVER should do that. Many posts here on this forum regarding the dangers.
 
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Are you kidding me? you were only running on one engine at that speed? You should NEVER run on one engine except at a few mph, if that in an emergency and preferably with the cooling intake hose crimped off. Wow.... And the dealer let you do this, if he did he is a moron? That is how you could destroy the second engine, by Hydrolocking it with water. I recommend you read up on Yamaha twin engine jet boats and running only on one engine, to understand on why you NEVER should do that. Many posts here on this forum regarding the dangers.
Second engine was at idle.
Are you saying the problem with running a single engine at speed has the same result as turning the flushing water on without the engine running?
I had not thought about the speed of the boat forcing cooling water into a non-running engine. Thanks for the heads up.
But in an emergency I would still like to know if the tabs would help get up on plane on a single engine.
 
Second engine was at idle.
Are you saying the problem with running a single engine at speed has the same result as turning the flushing water on without the engine running?
I had not thought about the speed of the boat forcing cooling water into a non-running engine. Thanks for the heads up.
But in an emergency I would still like to know if the tabs would help get up on plane on a single engine.

Yes it is the exact same thing as flushing the engine without it on. The faster you go it will force the cooling water into the other engine. Real tough to get on plane on the one engine. Of course weight in boat, conditions on water are also a factor.

FYI, if you Hydrolock the engine typically a Warranty will be denied so it will have to come out of your pocket. Would not be a good day.
 
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Yes it is the exact same thing as flushing the engine without it on. The faster you go it will force the cooling water into the other engine. Real tough to get on plane on the one engine. Of course weight in boat, conditions on water are also a factor.

FYI, if you Hydrolock the engine typically a Warranty will be denied so it will have to come out of your pocket. Would not be a good day.

I use each engine separately to steer the boat when I'm docking. Makes a world of difference. Should I not be doing that? Will it damage the other motor over time?
 
Looking for some help from somebody who's installed the MLC 1 controller. I wired everything and can't get any power to the controller or tabs. Connections into the controller 3, 4, 5, 6 go directly to the actuators and I did this correctly. #7 I wired into the accessory switch using a spade connection. #2 is the ground wire and I wired that to a steel bolt in the helm using a terminal connector. #1 is the power and I used 14 gauge wire with a 15 amp inline fuse, and wired everything directly to the positive terminal in the battery kill switch. Am I missing something here?

Any help is appreciated! Feeling like I just drilled 18 holes in my transom and a 2" hole in my dash for nothing.
 
Looking for some help from somebody who's installed the MLC 1 controller. I wired everything and can't get any power to the controller or tabs. Connections into the controller 3, 4, 5, 6 go directly to the actuators and I did this correctly. #7 I wired into the accessory switch using a spade connection. #2 is the ground wire and I wired that to a steel bolt in the helm using a terminal connector. #1 is the power and I used 14 gauge wire with a 15 amp inline fuse, and wired everything directly to the positive terminal in the battery kill switch. Am I missing something here?

Any help is appreciated! Feeling like I just drilled 18 holes in my transom and a 2" hole in my dash for nothing.

Im going to wager a guess that your ground connection is the issue. Use a volt meter and check the positive to the ground at the helm.
 
Im going to wager a guess that your ground connection is the issue. Use a volt meter and check the positive to the ground at the helm.

Thanks for the confirmation! I was thinking the same thing but didn't know. Appreciate the feedback.

I did some quick reading on marine electrical and didn't realize that the ground is typically wired back to the black terminal on the battery? I'm going to give that a shot and see what happens.
 
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@FSH 210 Sport is correct, your ground is wrong. All grounds need to go back to negatives on battery and/or be tied together. There are ground wires already under your helm, just tap that.
 
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