So, bilge pump is very important. A $65k+- boat is equipped with one. What if it fails? What if you get a leak and the pump is overwhelmed? My friend had to replace both motors after his boat flooded when he forgot to close the drain plug in the rear. This lead me to install a 2nd pump.
I did search the forum here but found little info on the 240/242 regarding this topic. I went ahead and bought an "
ATTWOOD SAHARA S1100 1100 GPH 12V AUTOMATIC MARINE BILGE PUMP" from eBay for $60. The good thing about this pump is that it has a built in float and 3 position; On/Off/ Auto.
The hull by the motor compartment is double. I had to cut a hole through the upper layer not knowing what I would find underneath. I used a Dremel tool and try and cut as clean as possible. The conditions I was working in were not ideal and I was rushing through the job on a hot day. I wish I would have taken my time and cut a smaller more accurate hole. Note the fiberglass cross beam I exposed. Here you can drill and screw in the strainer if you are focusing on locating the new hole right above it.
Next, I epoxied the strainer and screw it in to the beam with stainless still screw. I urge you to take your time and do it right the first time. JB Weld epoxy would work. While the epoxy was curing, I ran to west marine and got me 10 ft (I needed only 7') of the over sized hose the pump takes, a through hull bilge outlet, and clamps. I suggest you get this all online before working on your boat. 10' of this hose alone cost me $55 at West Marine, and I had to take a chrome looking plastic outlet since this was the only one they had and I wanted this over with (the boat outlet is black, it would have been nice to have a black one next to it as well). I had to drill the hull right next to the existing bilge outlet, I had to drill the motor compartment wall, and run the hose next to the existing one. Mind you, this is a larger heavier and less flexible hose comparing to the existing one. After the epoxy cured, and after clamping the hose to the pump, I had to warm the hose with a hair dry blower for the hose to flex enough and not to put pressure and brake the strainer (the hose curve right by the pump upward). After I will take it to the water, the general heat in this compartment, will mold the hose to its final bends (note the white hose).
Here are the tools I used:
I went ahead and ordered 3 wire water tight plug by Delphi from eBay. This is the best I know and I used it on my Hobie TI project. Note if you go with it, you will need to have a special crimping tool and might as well get extra pins. Good chance you will destroy one or two in the process of learning to install this plug. Also check for the pins gauge. You can google this "
Delphi Weather Pack 3 Pin Sealed Connector Kit 16-14 GA".
I spliced into the existing bilge wires ground to ground, and hot to on on the Attwood. A third wire which lead to the "Auto" on the Attwood I wired straight to the positive on the "House" battery (in my case I have two of them) through a 7.5 amp fuse. This way, when the existing bilge is working, the larger secondary kicks in along side. If the boat is off, I forgot to apply "auto bilge" function, or what have you reason you can think of, as soon as the water lever goes up, the float which is directly wired will kick the pump on.
I tested it this weekend and it's working like a charm. The first time I will find myself boating in sweet water, I will open the rear drain plug. I am curious to find out if the two pumps can pump water faster than the boat takes. When I do I will report back. Till than, I hope this helps
