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Almost a New Yamaha 195S Owner.... a couple of questions

YamaHog

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Year
2020
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Hello to all! I am currently awaiting the delivery of my Yamaha 2020 195S. I was lucky enough to locate one that was already on order at a dealer and not yet spoken for. I worked with them to put some money down and am now awaiting delivery when Yamaha ships out the remaining 2020 models to dealers. In the meantime I was lucky to discover this forum and have been doing a lot of reading. I'm not new to boating or the water, but lets just say the last boat I've driven was over 15 years ago...........and that was a 1976 Fabuglas Tri-hull boat with an Evinrude 85 HP outboard! So I am new to Jet boating. I'm thinking since it's been so long since I've driven an outboard I should adapt easily to the jet drive. Anyway, while researching here I've come up with a few questions as I will be traveling 10 hrs one way to pick up my boat from the dealer when it arrives.

1.) My tow vehicle is a 2019 GMC Canyon 4x4 that measure 19 " from the ground to the top of the hitch receiver. I haven't been able to find any specific info online in regards to the Yamaha trailer tounge/couple level height. I'm trying to determine if I need a hitch with a rise or drop and if so, how much.

2.) I've read that the bow roller on these trailers is hard plastic and will scratch up the bow during tow. Since I'm going to be trailering this boat 10 hrs back home after pickup, I'd like to be able to swap this thing out with a Stoltz brand bow roller right after I take delivery of the boat. Should I be able to easily swap this out? I'm guessing I'd just need to find the proper tools and sizes needed to swap it out so I can take those with me.

Any other considerations I should take into account for such a long haul back home? Thanks for any tips and I'm looking forward to getting back on the water again!
 

HangOutdoors

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I am not sure of the 195, but with the AR210, I used a floor jack, some 4x4's and some cushions and put it under the middle of the boat on the Keel and lifted the whole boat up about 4 inches or so to swap out the bow roller. No other way to get it in unless boat was off the trailer.

Make sure you have the proper hookup for electrical.
 

jgourlie

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Hello to all! I am currently awaiting the delivery of my Yamaha 2020 195S. I was lucky enough to locate one that was already on order at a dealer and not yet spoken for. I worked with them to put some money down and am now awaiting delivery when Yamaha ships out the remaining 2020 models to dealers. In the meantime I was lucky to discover this forum and have been doing a lot of reading. I'm not new to boating or the water, but lets just say the last boat I've driven was over 15 years ago...........and that was a 1976 Fabuglas Tri-hull boat with an Evinrude 85 HP outboard! So I am new to Jet boating. I'm thinking since it's been so long since I've driven an outboard I should adapt easily to the jet drive. Anyway, while researching here I've come up with a few questions as I will be traveling 10 hrs one way to pick up my boat from the dealer when it arrives.

1.) My tow vehicle is a 2019 GMC Canyon 4x4 that measure 19 " from the ground to the top of the hitch receiver. I haven't been able to find any specific info online in regards to the Yamaha trailer tounge/couple level height. I'm trying to determine if I need a hitch with a rise or drop and if so, how much.

2.) I've read that the bow roller on these trailers is hard plastic and will scratch up the bow during tow. Since I'm going to be trailering this boat 10 hrs back home after pickup, I'd like to be able to swap this thing out with a Stoltz brand bow roller right after I take delivery of the boat. Should I be able to easily swap this out? I'm guessing I'd just need to find the proper tools and sizes needed to swap it out so I can take those with me.

Any other considerations I should take into account for such a long haul back home? Thanks for any tips and I'm looking forward to getting back on the water again!
@YamaHog my 2015 AR192 tows level with the top of my ball at 20 inches with a bit of sag. At 19 inches you are going to want about an inch or two of drop and then add in the height of your ball. At 19-20 inches ball height you should be gold assuming they haven’t changed the trailers too much for the 195S from the 192?
 

FLBulldogger

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Welcome to the best forums on the ole interwebs! I would call the dealer and tell them I would be bringing up a new bow roller and have them install it as part of the deal...It really is an easy swap u don't have to drop the trailer much bring along a 3/4 inch open wrench or 2 or a 3/4 inch socket for the one side place a jack stand and a 2x4 on top lower the trailer slowly ( make sure you loosen the winch first) until you get about 1 inch worth of clearance and proceed to take the OEM off and put the new one on. 15 mins tops! j Also make sure the dealer keeps the original shipping cover, some just throw them away in hopes you will buy the mooring cover, make sure they have the original trailer straps for your long haul back.
 

tdonoughue

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Part of the problem is that the amount of drop/rise will depend on how much weight is on the tongue. Tongue weight for many has been highly variable on these boats, and we have had several reports of folks who have had to move their bowstop in order to get the tongue weight right (disclaimer: I didn't have to do that...). If your bowstop is too far forward, too much boat weight is forward of the wheels and your tow vehicle sags (and also pulls the front wheels up, making steering and stopping difficult). If too far back, too much boat weight is over the wheels and your vehicle may even get lifted a bit (and the trailer will sway when traveling).

I say that not so that you won't get your best guess as to the rise/drop--rather to suggest that you should be prepared. Maybe buy a 1" drop (which you can flip to a 1" rise) and a 2". That covers you for lots of options--then you can return the one you don't use. Or you can get one of the adjustable ones (but those tend to be pricey). If your dealer has a scale you can ask them to verify the tongue weight (should be 9-15% of the total or gross trailer weight (trailer + boat)) before you leave to make sure it is right and make them adjust the trailer if it is not...
 

Crob83

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Indianapolis, IN
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2018
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Hello to all! I am currently awaiting the delivery of my Yamaha 2020 195S. I was lucky enough to locate one that was already on order at a dealer and not yet spoken for. I worked with them to put some money down and am now awaiting delivery when Yamaha ships out the remaining 2020 models to dealers. In the meantime I was lucky to discover this forum and have been doing a lot of reading. I'm not new to boating or the water, but lets just say the last boat I've driven was over 15 years ago...........and that was a 1976 Fabuglas Tri-hull boat with an Evinrude 85 HP outboard! So I am new to Jet boating. I'm thinking since it's been so long since I've driven an outboard I should adapt easily to the jet drive. Anyway, while researching here I've come up with a few questions as I will be traveling 10 hrs one way to pick up my boat from the dealer when it arrives.

1.) My tow vehicle is a 2019 GMC Canyon 4x4 that measure 19 " from the ground to the top of the hitch receiver. I haven't been able to find any specific info online in regards to the Yamaha trailer tounge/couple level height. I'm trying to determine if I need a hitch with a rise or drop and if so, how much.

2.) I've read that the bow roller on these trailers is hard plastic and will scratch up the bow during tow. Since I'm going to be trailering this boat 10 hrs back home after pickup, I'd like to be able to swap this thing out with a Stoltz brand bow roller right after I take delivery of the boat. Should I be able to easily swap this out? I'm guessing I'd just need to find the proper tools and sizes needed to swap it out so I can take those with me.

Any other considerations I should take into account for such a long haul back home? Thanks for any tips and I'm looking forward to getting back on the water again!
My truck is lowered down, probably very close to what you have. I just use a straight hitch, it tows great. Just have to twist the chains a few times so they don't drag on the ground before you connect them to the truck.
 

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SamN44

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I have a 2018 F150 4x4 and a 2020 SX 190. A 2" drop on my hitch is perfect. Immediately swap out the bow roller. I can't believe Yamaha puts the stock roller on. I did not need to take the boat off the trailer, I just loosened the front strap and it gave me enough room to work.

I trailered 9 hours home when I bought our boat, and I would have felt a lot better with a spare tire. They're not a common size. I felt the wheel bearings every stop and both wheels were the same temp, which indicates everything is fine. Haven't had to add any grease since new.

Here's a link to the spare I ended up buying. Make sure you confirm the size with the dealer: Amazon.com: Trailer Tire On Rim ST215/75D14 14 in. Load C 5 Lug Silver Modular Wheel: Automotive
 

steve0617

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Littleton CO
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2019
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Get an adjustable hitch, especially if you’re going to store it in a garage. You may need the extra drop.

Also, that way, you never have to be wrong about the ball height.

With a few correct size sockets, you can easily swap the bow roller without removing the boat. I did in my garage on my 19 AR195.
 

YamaHog

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Thanks so much for everybody's replies and the tips. I reached out to my salesman with a few of these questions per your suggestions. The trailer spare is not something that had crossed my mind yet, but with a 10 hr haul back it definitely sounds like a good idea! I'd like to have one anyway as I'll typically be trailering about 45 mins or so to my favorite lake regularly. I originally had looked into the adjustable hitches but they are crazy expensive and don't really make sense for me since this is the only trailer I'm going to be pulling. The flexibility they provide is definitely nice though!
 

SamN44

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Thanks so much for everybody's replies and the tips. I reached out to my salesman with a few of these questions per your suggestions. The trailer spare is not something that had crossed my mind yet, but with a 10 hr haul back it definitely sounds like a good idea! I'd like to have one anyway as I'll typically be trailering about 45 mins or so to my favorite lake regularly. I originally had looked into the adjustable hitches but they are crazy expensive and don't really make sense for me since this is the only trailer I'm going to be pulling. The flexibility they provide is definitely nice though!
When you get the spare, buy this mount to attach it to the trailer: Amazon.com: Extreme Max 3001.0064 High-Mount Spare Tire Carrier: Automotive

I bought it from the recommendation of another forum member, and it's one of the few that angles the spare far enough away from the trailer to not hit the boat.
 

YamaHog

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@SamN44 , thank you for those links! I went ahead and ordered that spare tire and mount you recommended (confirmed tire size with dealer first). Also, grabbed a Curt spare tire lock.

@FLBulldogger , I talked with my salesman and the dealer is going to save the original shipping cover and support poles for my trip back.

To all that mentioned replacing the bow roller immediately. My salesman made the below statement, so I'm wondering if I'm ok to haul the boat back home and install a Stoltz bow roller on it in my garage?

The roller swap doesn’t need to be done because Yamaha shipping puts a pad on the bow when first ship to Dealer.

Does anybody happen to have link to the correct size/model Stoltz bow roller that I should replace the original plastic one with?

I think the only remaining items to work out now are the hitch & making sure I have the proper electrical adapter for trailer.
 

anmut

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RE the bow roller: Mine came factory with a piece of plastic on the hull between the roller. It was damaged from the factory even with that plastic. My dealership buffed out the hull and said they'd change the roller out for me if it continued to damage the gel coat. It has, but I'm going to wait until end of season to have them buff out and replace the roller on their (Yamaha's) dime.
 

HangOutdoors

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HangOutdoors

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steve0617

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tdonoughue

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I would think if you bought the roller the least the dealer could do is throw it on for you... Tell him you will ship it to him and have him put it on before you get there.
 

2kwik4u

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I would think if you bought the roller the least the dealer could do is throw it on for you... Tell him you will ship it to him and have him put it on before you get there.
This is the best option so far.
 

YamaHog

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Well, I got an email and call from my dealer today notifying me that my boat has arrived! Working out the rest with the finance guy now and show be traveling to pick up the boat likely Thursday - Friday after July 4th. Thanks for everybody's suggestions and help so far! I feel like I'm mostly prepared at this point. I've been researching trailer coupler locks made of hardened steel and trailer hitch pin locks, but the reviews on most have some major flaw (i.e. can pick lock with zip tie, etc.) I understand the lock is just a deterrent, but want to make the best choice of a coupler lock and a hitch pin lock so I'll have the ability to lock the trailer to the tow vehicle or lock the coupler when off the trailer. This will primarily be used while I have the boat launched as I'll be storing the boat securely in my garage. However, I want to be prepared to be able to lock the trailer outside as needed. Any recommendations on locks? Thanks!
 

steve0617

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I only do one lock when it’s attached to the truck. A skimpy Master post one that goes through the pin in the tongue. The pin that is attached to the trailer, at least for me, doesn’t stay in very well. The Master is not a sturdy lock at all but I at least know it’s not going to kick itself out. I wish the trailers had the camper style fold down handle style rather than the lift in the center style that my trailer has.

When in the garage, I also do a vertical post one that fills the empty hole when the tongue is swung around. That one is more beefy but it’s still pickable of course.

Also, get yourself a brake lockout magnet. That way, you can detach the brake lights so they’re not illuminated when they’re underwater and the surge brakes won’t lock up when going backwards.

The one that comes with the trailer is garbage and will fall out on you easily.

Get one of these orange ones off eBay or Amazon.

Amazon.com : Noa Store Lock Out Key Compatible with UFP Surge Brake Trailer - Magnetic with Heavy Duty Strap (Pack of 1) : Sports & Outdoors
 
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