(Another) scupper valve replacement thread...with a twist!

[michaeljbenner]

Hello all! I have been lurking here for a couple of months to see what I was getting myself into, then 3 weeks ago, I took the plunge! Bought a 2008 AR210 that looked to be in great shape for its age. Turns out it only had 79 hours on it (Yay me! and thanks for everyone's help locating, purchasing and hooking up the YDS cord and software!)

Anywho, the next item on my list is that pesky scupper valve that Yamaha pinched pennies on. I bought the recommended SS replacement from Amazon ($56) and started digging into it. As been experienced before, as soon as i tried to remove the old scupper, sure enough, the ring popped right off the body. Gah! Glad I am tackling this now.



What I realized from reading all the different scupper replacement threads, that the hardest parts are getting a wrench on the nut (easy fix with this: Adjustable Wrench, 16-68mm Lightweight Aluminum Alloy Large Jumbo Adjustable Wrench for Bathroom, Short Handle Ultra-wide Jaw Opening Spanner Slip Nut Wrench Set Tool for Removing, Tightening Drainage - - Amazon.com ) and trying to hold the outside flange to get the nut on. The original valve from the factory has these slots in it that you could stick something in to hold it still while the inside nut was being tightened:






Taking apart the new SS valve, I realized that there was a little metal tab on the interior under the rubber flap:




That's the ticket! Stopped by Home Depot and picked up some PVC Parts to make a custom wrench:






The 1" sweat-to-threaded fitting fits perfectly inside the inner ring of the valve. This provides person #2 on your install to apply lateral pressure on the valve and sealant from the outside while person #1 tightens the interior nut.



The PVC male adapter screws into that piece, and then you have to do some fabricating to get it to engage the metal tab:
















Add a line to mark top-dead-center:









That's it! Took me about 20 minutes to make. This should allow person #2 to both push the valve into the boat, hold it firm and stop it from twisting when person #1 is tightening the interior nut. Hopefully this will make the job a ton easier.

 

[Gym]

Nice one @michaeljbenner and welcome aboard.

 

[mrmeaniemeateaterman]

Nice! And first post too. Welcome aboard!

 

[captras]

You could make these and sell then for $50 ?

 

[Thats]

That's a hell of a lot better of a first post than mine....

 

[drewkaree]

You could make these and sell then for $50 ?

Make sure to put a Porsche emblem on it so people can justify the cost ?

 

[Sbrown]

Make sure to put a Porsche emblem on it so people can justify the cost ?

Nah, just write "Snap-On" on it. They'll line up for blocks for the privilege of paying you $150 for it.

 

[Marvin willis]

I just held the threads with pliers while I tightened the nut. I’m not lucky enough to have helpers.

 

[Liveto99]

I thought you push one of these through and hold it as you tighten the nut.

 

[Beachbummer]

Nice tool.

I only noticed after I was done tightening mine, but the inside of the scupper has a hex end to it, with a large adjustable wrench, the body could be prevented from rotating from the inside also. I was kicking myself after I was done that I had not used that feature of it. I think for the final turns this could be helpful too.

 

[drewkaree]

In this pic here, it looks like you used cement on the threads prior to screwing them together. Is my guess correct on this? If so, was this done for strength, or just to keep the pieces from coming apart while installing the scupper valve?

 

[Liveto99]

On piping installations with water pressure don’t ever do that you would think it would be leak proof but they always leak. I’m a master plumber I’m just letting anyone who reads this know so they don’t make that mistake. For a tool use it is fine.

 

[drewkaree]

On piping installations with water pressure don’t ever do that you would think it would be leak proof but they always leak. I’m a master plumber I’m just letting anyone who reads this know so they don’t make that mistake. For a tool use it is fine.

I'd go a step further and say that if you're cementing together threaded connectors on any actual plumbing, you should be putting down the cement, backing away, and calling a plumber to do the job properly.

With just the regular primer/cement for PVC, I'd have thought that would set up enough that you might just barely get the connectors screwed together (one reason I think they would always leak - you're constantly breaking the cement bond as you're screwing the parts together, and end up with areas not actually glued together). With that blue cement, I thought that stuff set up even faster. I can't even imagine that could have been done to the full depth of the fitting.

 

[Augusto David Rodriguez]

Did you mind to send a dimensions or size of the scupper valve?

 

[michaeljbenner]

Did you mind to send a dimensions or size of the scupper valve?

Here's the one I bought:

attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve Amazon.com : attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve : Boating Control Cables : Sports & Outdoors

 

[Lspeedss]

Nice improvement.

 

[gthh]

By the way, who has the scupper wrench! I need it please!

 

[pattimurray23]

I need the scupper wrench, too. Please email me at pdmurraydotcom@aol.com and I will send a FedEx label. Thanks!

 

[Ken Sherlaw]

ordered my new SS scupper today. All the flooding stories scared me. Would have not thought of doing this MOD without everyone's suggestions. This site sure is a great resource! Thanks to all the contributors. Will make a "wrench" to make the change out easier as well.