Any Stereo Gurus?

[Englewoodcowboy]

I want to add more sound to my AR192. As you may or may not know the boat has a Clarion M502 head unit, no amp and 4 Polk 6.5 marine speakers. It is ok as it is from the factory but I want better clearer sound. I want to add 2 more Polk 6.5 in Aerial cans on the tower and an 8" polk sub. I do not want to get into replacing what I already have or mis matching things, I like clean looks. My Q is, I have wired car stereos for years and know a little but am lost on the boat how to set up the system with amps etc. I know the tower speakers will be projecting more but I don't know how to achieve that as you have wiring options that changes ohms etc which changes how the speaker acts. This is going to be a winter project and knowing what type of amp or amps to source is my first issue, how to wire the speakers up so you are not deafening say the bow area our tower speakers that makes it annoying to others. I am after good volume control and better than head unit sound quality without upsetting the bank too much. I have a lot of more important mods lie ballast and perfect pass that get the majority of my budget to do.

 

[Evil Sports]

I have the same components, I added a Wetsounds Sub and a Wetsounds HT6 amp. Major difference.

 

[txav8r]

Ah...the stereo mod! It is always an interesting challenge. And much of what you describe is a big challenge. You actually are using your stereo inside a bathtub. And that is a poor arena for music. And your outside the tub setup can go several different directions. They make projecting speakers for the tower, that are called H.L.C.D. (Horn Loaded, Compression Driven speaker) that will ensure that a rider 80 feet behind the boat can hear and enjoy the music. Those are high dollar speakers and require a vast amount of power to run them, along with the batteries to support them. We love our Yamahas, but we have stator magneto charging systems that only produce 26amp recovery per hour on the twin engine boats. I don't know for sure, but suspect your more in the 13amp range. So adding a high draw sound system is kind of going to be a difficult thing on the single engine boats, not to mention room and weight issues.

Many guys add coaxials in the tower cans to get sound outside the bathtub, but don't care about playing music 80' behind the boat...and don't expect coaxials to play 80' behind the boat, they won't. But they will play well to the near range audience, say 20-30'. Without the HLCD speakers, your low end will suffer outside the boat as well, as subwoofers are not designed and don't get outside the bathtub well at all. But many of us have great sound systems that sound good running and while at anchor...and even sound good out on the swim deck and in the water behind the boat or at the beach, within 20 yards or so when at rest. The HU (head unit) is "ok" if it is working. The big issue is separation of zones IMO. But with an amp, you can isolate the zones with a line level volume control for the different areas of the boat, and a similar device for sub level control. Your Polk DB651 speakers are a high quality entry level speaker. While they are far above many entry level speakers, they are an entry level speaker. So by definition, they won't match many of the better stereos out there that have higher quality marine grade audio speakers. By match, I mean they won't deliver the amount, the quality, or have the longevity that some of the more expensive lines and models will have. If Polk is your line of choice, the MM651UM is a much more capable and durable speaker for the marine environment. I have used JL Audio and I am in my second boat now and doing that mod on it too. The MX650 needs about 60w to drive it efficiently, the MX770 needs about 70-100w to drive it, and the M770 needs about 150w to be happy. This is per speaker. You can drive the speaker you have, the DB651, with 50-60w, but what you get out of it won't be the same...but it will be a far cry from what you have now I am guessing.

You are limited to what you can do in a 19' boat, but there is a bunch you can do! And, you can do the horns if that is just what you want, you will just be limited on time. Because getting ballast tanks and 5 batteries or more, amps, and still have any room may be a challenge. But hey, we love a good challenge, right?!

 

[Craig]

@Englewoodcowboy , I'm in the same boat . Planning on adding two more polk db651's in the cockpit, and possibly two on the swim deck, an amp which will push the 8 speakers and not break the bank. I'm hoping to achieve better sound (that doesn't clip at higher volumes) but not looking to spend a fortune right now. A sub will have to wait for me. I'll be watching your thread and hopefully learning from others that post up with more experience. I wish I had more info to offer you, sorry.

I will tell you that I have read others post that an amp with the polk db651's is supposed to make a substantial difference.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

I appreciate the input and am only trying to improve the sound in the boat and while at anchor. I looked at the projection speakers and they are crazy expensive. Also knowing I am limited with charging capability, I want to keep that in check as well. I am not looking to do a large sub either, probably an 8" just to try and help balance the sound a little. Being in a tub as described it does have an advantage for the bass as it gives it plenty to bounce off of and the stock speakers have shown you can make them bump pretty good but then it crowds out the other frequencies. Im not looking to make the best by any means, just clean up and improve the volume range with what I have. My biggest question is should I run a 5 channel amp and a 2 channel or get a 6 channel for the speakers and a bridgeable 2 channel for the sub? I also have the option of 2 4 channel amps and bridging 2 for the sub. Trying to figure out which would be most efficient power wise. I plan on swapping my battery to a deep cycle battery. Our engines do not require many cranking amps and a deep cycle provides enough, they just cost a little more but save room that I will need for the ballast.

 

[txav8r]

There are a good many 5 channel amps out there. Of course I am biased and favor the JL M700/5. It is underrated for what it is. That amp has a very small footprint too. Whatever you choose, it should be a Class D in these boats. Just decide what it is you want to do and go from there.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

Im looking at a pair of the JBL MA6004 amps. I can run 2 channels bridged to the sub and one channel per each of the stock location speakers, including the tower. The amps have a pretty good review and are a fair bang for the buck I have seen. I should be powering all of the speakers right about 1/2 to 3/4 range of the power they are rated for which should lead to a decent life expectancy. I am thinking of mounting the sub under the driver dash above the foot well so it is out of danger of getting kicked by passengers. A friends Master Craft had its sub in that location and it sounded fine so I am hoping it will work here as well. There is plenty of real-estate there to even go with a 10" or 12" if I wanted to.

 

[tim2808]

This is my setup on my 192 with pictures.

This is my setup on my AR192
2x Fusion bullet style tower speakers
10" Fusion sub
Fusion 1600w 5 channel amp
Factory Polk 6 1/2"'s
Factory (crappy) Clarion head unit
Originally I installed the sub as free air in the helm console wall. I have never been happy with the bass output either. Today I put the sub in a sealed box and it made a HUGE difference!! Without any adjustments to the amp. So I'll be covering that hole with a custom speaker grill soon. I think it will look fine.
Next investment will be a new head unit.

 

[tim2808]

Well, the pictures of mine and other 192 setups are at this link.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/sx190-ar190-sx192-ar192-stereo-upgrade.2797/

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

This is my setup on my 192 with pictures.

Where I am hoping to mount my sub is in the flat panel beneath the helm. I am hoping I can build a box to fit inside of that area since there is some room in there. Hoping to just sandwich it to the fiberglass using the speaker as the clamp. I will build it out of 1/2" MDF and add a support strap or two if need be. The biggest thing is to make it easily removed fro service etc of the other components down the road.

Do you have a wiring diagram of how you ran your speakers to the amp? You have more speakers than channels which is why I decided to steer away from a 5 channel and get two 4 channel bridgeable amps so every speaker has its own channel and I will bridge 2 into 1 giving the wattage for the sub.

I can use Y adapters fro the RCA inputs and was thinking of putting the cockpit speakers on the front channel of my deck, the tower speakers on the rear and the sub would be on it's dedicated channel.

What head unit are you thinking about? I know the 2013's came with an outdated Clarion and the 2014's have the M502. I do like the Clarion MW04 remote due out before the end of the year...

 

[tim2808]

I have all 4 factory Polk's wired in parallel, 2 to the front left and 2 to the front right on the amp, the 2 tower's are wired straight to the rear left, right, and the sub is on the sub channel. My plan was to be able to faded from front to rear to adjust how loud I wanted the tower speakers are various times. However the crappy Clarion unit in mine does not even have a fade option (or I haven't found it). I will be going with a Fusion head unit hopefully this winter. It's loud... really loud in the boat. I am definitely a fan of those factory Polk's

 

[tim2808]

The Fusion Bluetooth adapter is a must if your receiver doesn't have Bluetooth already!! It's the best $40 I have spent yet.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

The M502 has blue tooth, fader, balance etc. even built in X'over style EQ. Not as nice as my Kenwood in my truck but for the water it will work and with the amps having built in X'overs for front and rear I should be able to get it dialed in pretty good. I was concerned as to the sound quality of the Polk speakers as the DB series is the lower line and my friends Nautigue has the MM series and they sound very good, I cannot see much of a difference in series unless you are adding serious power... glad to hear you like yours, makes me more confident in my plans. How much of an improvement did it make over stock for cruising etc? I know the boats are noisy getting up on plane etc but I have found a nice cruise rpm of 6000 to 6500 it settles down nicely and I can talk reasonably with my passengers but the stereo sound is not so hot.

How much if any did the tower speakers improve cockpit sound? I am looking at the Aerial speakers with the Polk DB speakers. Not worried as much for a skier to hear as much as I am wanting to hear when swimming or at beach etc.

 

[tim2808]

I can barely hear the tower speakers in the boat, even sitting across the back seats. But on the swim deck and in the water they are crystal clear.

Honestly you could put 2 more 6 1/2" in the wall at the lowest swim deck seating level and that would accomplish what you are looking for. That section does get VERY wet though so make sure you seal around the speaker good, etc. Or one guy on here put them behind the seat cushions on the swim deck (just don't use the blower vent hole, cut new ones). AND EITHER OF THOSE would be a million times easier than running wires in the tower, drilling, etc. However I can't argue the "cool" factor of the tower speakers, which is why I have them.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

I had thought about that and figure the speakers will look better and last longer on the tower plus I plan on adding an LED courtesy light onto the tower as well so wiring it will be happening. I have looked at the yamaha wiring kit for the tower, 7 lead. Don't know what the price is but having he disconnect at the hull entry will be nice if for some reason the tower ever needs to be removed.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

What do you think of that fusion amp? How is it holding up. I just found their 4 ch amp and it has the features I am after at a much more affordable price which my wallet will like however it has limited reviews...

 

[latitudeadjuster]

I had thought about that and figure the speakers will look better and last longer on the tower plus I plan on adding an LED courtesy light onto the tower as well so wiring it will be happening. I have looked at the yamaha wiring kit for the tower, 7 lead. Don't know what the price is but having he disconnect at the hull entry will be nice if for some reason the tower ever needs to be removed.

This is the best price I have found on the 7 lead. Shipping quote wasn't bad. Change for your boat....probably the same but not sure.

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oe...700228ec05eae6/universal-tower-wiring-harness

 

[tim2808]

I like the amp so far. Haven't had any issues and it got the hell beat out of it on the trip to Bimini.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

I saw your videos, they are what got me thinking of doing it next year. How bad was it? Didn't look too bad by the videos...

 

[tim2808]

Honestly it wasn't that bad but we had VERY good sea's and weather. I think the year or 2 before that they had 2-3 ft seas and I CANNOT IMAGINE that in my little boat, lol. I was sucking air A LOT when we left Ft. Lauderdale until we stopped at the mid point until I learned to get out into my own clean water. It was absolutely worth being super nervous and white knuckle driving for the first 2 hours. Bimini is beautiful and no trip in my Yamaha will every compare to it.