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Anyone make and sell parts with a 3D Printer?

2kwik4u

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captainhook

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I started with an Ender 3 V2 because I wasn’t sure how much I’d use it. It worked great for awhile, and then all of a sudden it didn’t. I’d fix it, it would break. I’d fix it again, and it would work for a few prints, and then it would fail again. I started down the upgrade road, had more issues. I took all that shit off, put it back to stock, same thing—worked for a bit (or, the very next print) and would fail again.

I was hooked after the first print and knew I’d be using it a lot, I even got into designing which I never expected as I was never good at that sort of thing. It quickly became probably one of, if not my favorite, hobby of all time, and frankly one of the cheapest (B.O.A.T.). I knew I wanted to upgrade but I still was unsure about how much better something like a Prusa was, so I bought a $380 Prusa clone on Ali Express after researching everything from Voron (couldn’t justify $1500+) to Rat Rig and everything in between. The clone had some shitty parts I had to replace because I didn’t follow the advice online and wanted to do things the hard way. I have it running flawlessly now using some OEM or OEM-quality Prusa parts. I’ve also added an enclosure and can successfully print PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, and ASA (and likely just about anything else I’d try save for some exotics like PEEK). I typically buy the cheapest filament possible and notice pretty much zero difference. The only time I spend more on filament is if it’s a structural or safety issue. I often design parts in Fusion 360 and those are my favorite prints.

If you’re looking to spend time printing and designing, the Prusa is for you. I can count on one hand how many times the bed has been too small. Sure I would like a bigger bed, but the reality is I would rarely use it. If you’re looking to tinker and have endless time fixing stupid problems and always wonder if the print is going to fail, get one of the cheaper Chinese kits (Ender, Voxel, etc.). I assure you, the Prusa is worth the money. I click print, it just works. When the Prusa XL comes out, it will be on the short list.

Here’s a print I designed for my WaveRunner to mount a GPS (some day I’ll post a thread on that), some Mustang badges I printed for my nephew (not my design) and a couple pictures of my printer in the enclosure.

1E5FF7AB-E652-4F4D-A263-650A75B6D336.jpegE3F4EEEC-9485-44FD-BF19-62F9D5A4C94A.jpeg1B288D5A-5C59-46C8-96D5-4934E47E2A17.jpeg
 

captainhook

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Guy at work was talking about Voron. Can't remember exactly, but I feel like it was really high print speeds.
It’s an open source printer designed by engineers using parts you can source yourself (you can also buy kits). Advantages are yes high speeds, large print volumes, and enclosures built into the design. There is also a lot of support available and a highly active user community. I’m not sure you’d want to start with a Voron as your first printer.
 

Can0n11

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We have Ultimaker series printers at work but went with an Ender 5 Plus to make larger prints. Hate to say it but it outperforms the Ultimakers. It has BLtouch auto leveling which is similar to the Ultimakers but the Enders or any Prusa knock off requires a little bit of basic setup knowledge that can be Youtube'd. When we make parts we use Fusion 360(we get free licenses at work) but since time is of the essence, it has to be ops critical to invest that kind of time to produce. Bruce makes good steering bushings and other parts - well worth it. Prusa make a good printer. If I want to pound out a Hero cam mount or Romex wire holders etc., I usually go to Yeggi.com for free files. If you are looking for printing Pliable plugs from PVA or parts made from nylon. carbon fiber etc. Matterhackers.com sells printers that can address your specific needs. And they sell good house PLA, PLA Pro, PETG, PVA/TPU and other exotic material. That is a whole nother' hobby in its self.

If you buy an Ender, Make sure you get an authentic Ender from the ENDER official site or a retailer that sells authentic Enders. Amazon also sells them but you have to do a little research before you buy. Official Creality3D® Store|Best DIY 3D Printer & Accessories,Filament

If you have a cnc router and you are in for a project, you can make your own from scratch with plans from MPCNC: https://docs.v1engineering.com/mp3dp/version2/ . I have a MPCNC router and started a MP3DP that is about 70% complete, and has been at 70% for about a year..... all I need is more time which has been hard to come by since I bought my 190 FSH :).
 

seanmclean

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@seanmclean just built a fancy Voron and I’m sure he’d love to tell us about it.
It’s a lovely machine. :)

Quite an adventure to build, and still tuning some of the kinks out of it, but its printing pretty nicely (and very quickly!)

751D1F31-D726-40B9-831D-264F33E46320.jpeg

bed size comparison to my ender 3 for reference

766324DE-AA76-4C1A-86E1-338A4ECDBA22.jpeg
 

Bruce

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@seanmclean, great work building that Voron!

What speeds are you able to run with PLA and PETG?
 

seanmclean

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@seanmclean, great work building that Voron!

What speeds are you able to run with PLA and PETG?
Haven't tried PETG yet, but with PLA I'm getting up to 300mm/s so far. Have TPU up to about 100mm/s, but its getting dicey there. Apparently there are some reworked extruder parts for TPU that should let me accelerate that faster, too. PETG always pissed me off with the Ender, but I'm looking forward to giving it a go here, just need to order some.

Only been up and running for a couple weeks, but already have 180 hours of mostly successful printing.
 

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@seanmclean those speeds are amazing. On the CR-10S Pro with an E3D Hemera I can print PETG at 80mm/s a second, typical TPU at 60 and NinjaFlex at 45. I rarely print PLA.
 

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Hi-jacking the thread a little... and if I need to start a new one I can....

Went to install a Fusion remote on the swim deck this weekend as I was replacing the round Clarion. Of course once it was out did I discover the hole is about 3/8" or so too big for the Fusion remote to fully cover it. So now I need to make a backing plate or something that will tie in with the remote as well as look good on the boat (wife's request). Hoping one of the guys/gals thats in this thread can help me out.
 

Beachbummer

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that's a tricky one... What's your take on the desire look in the end? an edge of about 1/2 inch all around the new remote? Folks here have their printers very well calibrated and can probably make that for you very effectively. I wonder if perhaps a slight increase in thickness on that bevel, and then a thinner right in the middle were the current remote will sit. Pictures and measurements of the new remote can probably help.
 

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@The Canuck, please post pictures and dimensions.

It does sound like some sort of backing plate might work for you.
 

captainhook

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Agree with Bruce, post some pics. I’ll help you out if he doesn’t. Just pay for shipping, I enjoy these projects.
 

The Canuck

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Thank you to the feedback and excitement to help... (why forums like this are great!)

Below are some photos as well as a quick CAD drawing of what I am thinking. Not sure if we can go as thin as 3/16" or if I need to go to 1/4". Would love 1/8", but worry that would be too thin, and could potentially break/crack. And if I am getting picky, it would be nice to fillet the edge of the plate to its not a sharp corner. Also wondering if I need to have some sort of small channel on the backside that could accept the silicone I will have to put on to help seal the unit. Open to options/discussion as I do not know the limitations of these machines, or what might work best in this situation.

The light outline that you can see around the hole, is where the edge of the Clarion remote was. This is also the approx. location of where the swim deck riser starts to bend. On my drawing its the dashed line.

Lastly, I also have a spacer that is essentially the dimension of the remote along with the cutout (last photo) that I can send to whomever if they want something to help use. I don't think I want that spacer if I am going to have a backer plate. So I figure it could be a great template.
IMG_6235.jpegIMG_6236.jpegIMG_6237.jpegIMG_6238.jpegIMG_6239.jpegIMG_6240.jpegIMG_6242.jpegRemote Backer Plate.jpgIMG_6243.jpeg
 

Bruce

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@The Canuck

Something like this?

The screw holes are in the spacer hole positions. I have #6 x 5/8" stainless screws that we can countersink into a 4mm plate. 4mm is between 1/8 and 3/16.

I approximated the position of the 24mm hole taking measurements of your picture.

Black or white?


Screen Shot 2022-07-06 at 4.38.02 PM.png

Screen Shot 2022-07-06 at 4.20.32 PM.png
 

The Canuck

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@Bruce This looks good... The whole middle section needs to be cut out (refer to the last photo). This is a spacer with the middle cut out, and I would think the backer plate should mimic that.

If you want to send me a message with your email I can send you the CAD file I have that will tell you where the 24mm hole location is.
 

The Canuck

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I’m here thinking man that would’ve been easier in millimeters and then I remember his username is “The Canuck.” 😄
Born in Canada, but now in the US. Metric system is long gone from the memory.
 
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