Beginner Questions

[Betik]

Mr. Grey,

1. Do not forget to add a cover on the guide post pvc. @bronze_10 can tell you all about it. LOL
2. Please check your tongue weight. People are reporting scary numbers when they are taking delivery
3. Yamaha are like Toyota’s , but note that Toyota’s are no longer the Toyota’s that we remember
4. Do you kids know that your new boat can make to Bimini ....
5. I assume you have a proper tow vehicle ! Like a Toyota Tundra or equivalent ; a Toyota Highlander won’t be the best choise
6. Electric/hydrolic will be a nice option, but probably I would my money somewhere else ( or seadick
7. A stoltz bow stopper will be nice
8. Consider joining a gather at your earliest convinience; swing what others are doing will help a lot

Welcome on board Mr. Grey

Sincerely,
Anastasia

 

[swatski]

With an E series, and one engine inop/shutdown, will the throttle forward still provide the desired effect, or does engine off also shut off throttle controls?

Interesting point. I don't have a clue.

You do need power and electronics to raise the buckets in E-series (unlike the non-E which is mechanical and the engines can run with no electronics except for ECUs, once they start). Supposedly there is a mechanical override in Es, but IDK.

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[Coheeba]

There is a mechanical override behind the helm. It is a box on the floor and you can manual control the buckets.

 

[Coheeba]

This is on my boat.

 

[Coheeba]

I have attached instructions for manual shift gate operation from the manual.

 

[Coheeba]

****Be aware that when you switch to manual mode you are always in forward, you can not shift at all. When the engines are running you are moving forward. ****

 

[Gray]

Mr. Grey,

1. Do not forget to add a cover on the guide post pvc. @bronze_10 can tell you all about it. LOL
2. Please check your tongue weight. People are reporting scary numbers when they are taking delivery
3. Yamaha are like Toyota’s , but note that Toyota’s are no longer the Toyota’s that we remember
4. Do you kids know that your new boat can make to Bimini ....
5. I assume you have a proper tow vehicle ! Like a Toyota Tundra or equivalent ; a Toyota Highlander won’t be the best choise
6. Electric/hydrolic will be a nice option, but probably I would my money somewhere else ( or seadick
7. A stoltz bow stopper will be nice
8. Consider joining a gather at your earliest convinience; swing what others are doing will help a lot

Welcome on board Mr. Grey

Sincerely,
Anastasia

1: Yes, I have the guide post cover on the checklist.
2 & 5: I will be using a Equal-i-zer brand WDH on a F350 4x4 DRW with a conventional towing capacity of 19,000 lbs. (and a 5th wheel/Gooseneck capacity of 26,500 lbs)
4. Children/grandchildren are not in the decision loop regarding any of this. Aside from that, I will not be traveling to Bimini or anyplace east of the Mississippi since double towing is mostly prohibited there.
6: Once you have used EoH on a trailer, you will never want to return to anything less. It costs a great deal less than things such as sound systems.
7. Stoltz is on the list.
8. No gatherings occur in my area or even close to my area.

 

[Gray]

****Be aware that when you switch to manual mode you are always in forward, you can not shift at all. When the engines are running you are moving forward. ****

swatski: Thank you

Coheeba,

Let me posit this scenario: one engine inoperable; decision made to return on good engine. Proper hose/clamp accomplished to prevent water damage to inop engine. Manual mode shift rod selected to forward on the inop engine.

With the above actions taken, will the still operable engine and controls allow electronic control of the shift gate on the operable engine? (when only the inop engine shift rod has been "manualized".)

Thank you for helping me understand this.

 

[swatski]

swatski: Thank you

Coheeba,

Let me posit this scenario: one engine inoperable; decision made to return on good engine. Proper hose/clamp accomplished to prevent water damage to inop engine. Manual mode shift rod selected to forward on the inop engine.

With the above actions taken, will the still operable engine and controls allow electronic control of the shift gate on the operable engine? (when only the inop engine shift rod has been "manualized".)

Thank you for helping me understand this.

Man, you are really planning ahead! LOL. But, definitely good idea to be informed and prepared!

I'll add this here - if I was buying my 2016 new boat again, I would get an E-series (sure - ideally snatching one with 10hrs on the clock like @Coheeba did - a winner!)
The two main reasons are :

1. the tower (AR tower is fine but the locking mechanism is flawed) with the large bimini (those big towers have proven themselves totally reliable - I was initially skeptical about it and was proven wrong) and
   
2. the E-throttles - which are very smooth.

The two or three things I do not care for in E-series are:

1. The E-throttles - the way those need power/electronics to operate (I would be like you - exploring all possible scenarios with manual override etc.)
2. the lack of reverse at speed - that one is just plain nuts (on my river I would be in trouble many times already, the cobra fins - down at speed - would be a must in my book on those boats, at least where/how I boat)
3. not sure about this new large Connext screen - it is nice, but... if that thing goes out... I guess one is so SOL... (albeit the new COnnext - 2018+ - is supposedly a lot better designed as compared to the Frankenstein predecessor)

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[Gray]

Man, you are really planning ahead! LOL. But, definitely good idea to be informed and prepared!


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My standard approach for equipment is tertiary redundancy, with a "2 is 1, 1 is none" as a minimum complement. Primary, alternate, contingency, emergency, is my normal planning paradigm.
(CDO, because OCD is not in proper order.)

I am planning on the 242 L S E. I have read a lot of your posts and I enjoy the precision that you try to obtain. We will not be participating in any wake-surfing type of activities, and only occasional inflatable towing. Mostly just leisurely cruising. There will be no investment in upgrading sound systems, but I am interested in good quality ancillary and navionic equipment, to include the:

Raymarine Quantum 2 Doppler radar and an Axiom MFD,
ICOM IC-M424G vhf with commensurate antenna
Minn Kota 3 bank Precision On-Board Charger,
Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus Battery Switch and an Automatic Charging Relay
3 each Odyssey 31M-PC2150ST-M batteries,
SmartPlug B30ASSYNT, 30 Amp Inlet
2 each Rule 1500 GPH Marine Bilge Pumps with Ultra Safety Systems Pump Switch Jr., one direct wired to battery; the other partially pre-wired but kept as a ready reserve in ship's stores.
If the vessel uses a 12 volt fuse panel, I would prefer to have that replaced with the Blue Sea WeatherDeck 12V DC Waterproof Circuit Breaker Panel

I have all but decided upon the full Cobra suite of control surfaces with dual control rods, with just a little remaining curiosity regarding the JBP thrusters. Since I do not know what I don't know, I am still researching.

I found your trim tab expository very interesting. (The largest problem that I will encounter is finding a good marine craftsman to accomplish the attention to detail that you and others here do. (I am not a DIY; it is easier for me to pay for the labor than it is inflict the steep portion of the learning curve on a brand new vessel.) The Lectrotabs with the auto system are on the list.

Feel free to critique my planning.

Thank you to all for being patient with my lack of knowledge.

 

[Betik]

I just told my wife about your redundancy approach. She said “ 2 is 0 , 1 is all you need; tell @MrMoose to stop giving you ideas”
I told her it was Mr Grey’s idea not @MrMoose .
Response “ whatever, your 50 shades of boatporn friends are giving bad marital advice”

 

[Coheeba]

swatski: Thank you

Coheeba,

Let me posit this scenario: one engine inoperable; decision made to return on good engine. Proper hose/clamp accomplished to prevent water damage to inop engine. Manual mode shift rod selected to forward on the inop engine.

With the above actions taken, will the still operable engine and controls allow electronic control of the shift gate on the operable engine? (when only the inop engine shift rod has been "manualized".)

Thank you for helping me understand this.

I think that if you have power to the engine you will still be able to shift unless there is a specific problem with the shifter. Not 100% on this issue.
That solution I stated is if you have a problem with the automatic shifting. I was addressing the ability to operate the buckets manually.

 

[Coheeba]

Unless I'm missing something, if you have the clamp in place on the inop engine you don't need to worry about what position the shift lever is in. I think you will still be able to control the good engine.

 

[Dave Baran]

New 2018 242 Limited S E-Series owner here. I took my new boat out for a run this past weekend and it was awesome. Quite a different feeling from my old sterndrive. Nothing bad, but it will take a little getting used to. Feels like the boat floats over the wake and chop more, the sterndrive would plow thru the wake a little more.

I wanted to share this one experience I had over the weekend. Using the scrreen touch button; I shut off the Connext while rafting off in Float-Mode; then I spent a while there catching up with some old friends. At the end when it was time to leave the screen would not come back on period, no matter what I tried (cycling the key; pulling the lanyard; etc.) I was worried that it wouldn't start and I was going to need a tow or be stuck there for a while. But it was not the case. Even with the Connext powered off, both motors started up and drove normally. I ran the boat a good 10-15 minutes thru the no wake zone and out on the main lake running all speeds up to WOT all with the Connext screen turned off. So that was good to find out; when it was safe to do all that and I didn't have any panic or rush to get home. I stopped in a bay after the spin around the lake powered off the motors and then cycled the battery switches. The Connext rebooted and everything was good again. So I was happy to know the Connext isn't required to start up and run the motors. It is essential to run the audio or nav or other functions but not the basic operation of the boat, motor and e-throttles. I did not think to try to confirm; but I think the nav lights or bilge and blower will all still work off the hard buttons.

 

[Gray]

Thank you...good to know.

 

[Coheeba]

New 2018 242 Limited S E-Series owner here. I took my new boat out for a run this past weekend and it was awesome. Quite a different feeling from my old sterndrive. Nothing bad, but it will take a little getting used to. Feels like the boat floats over the wake and chop more, the sterndrive would plow thru the wake a little more.

I wanted to share this one experience I had over the weekend. Using the scrreen touch button; I shut off the Connext while rafting off in Float-Mode; then I spent a while there catching up with some old friends. At the end when it was time to leave the screen would not come back on period, no matter what I tried (cycling the key; pulling the lanyard; etc.) I was worried that it wouldn't start and I was going to need a tow or be stuck there for a while. But it was not the case. Even with the Connext powered off, both motors started up and drove normally. I ran the boat a good 10-15 minutes thru the no wake zone and out on the main lake running all speeds up to WOT all with the Connext screen turned off. So that was good to find out; when it was safe to do all that and I didn't have any panic or rush to get home. I stopped in a bay after the spin around the lake powered off the motors and then cycled the battery switches. The Connext rebooted and everything was good again. So I was happy to know the Connext isn't required to start up and run the motors. It is essential to run the audio or nav or other functions but not the basic operation of the boat, motor and e-throttles. I did not think to try to confirm; but I think the nav lights or bilge and blower will all still work off the hard buttons.

When in doubt, re-boot

 

[Jbone007]

Oh, it can be done of course, just not ideal.
And all the new Yamies leak..., too, lol.

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Do you have any more info on the 18's leaking? Brand new and were having that problem. Dealer is overnighting a new plug but wondering if its an across the board problem

 

[WetWillie]

Check the anchor locker compartment the drain has been found to be unfinished on several causing mass amounts of water to soak carpeting and make it into the hull of the boat...

 

[Betik]

I think someone suggested taking the boat to quite ramp and let it sit in the water while still on the trailer.... then go hunting for the source of the water leak .

For the anchor but you could just fill it with a garden hose and see if it holds water or not ( make sure you close the drain though).

 

[Jbone007]

Check the anchor locker compartment the drain has been found to be unfinished on several causing mass amounts of water to soak carpeting and make it into the hull of the boat...

Dont know why I didnt get an alert but thank you. I am headed out tomorrow and will look at that. Dont think I know where that is but im sure ill find it @Betik We considered this and will probaly be doing that.