Boat won't start

[biglar155]

This really "feels" like ECU fuses. I blew mine up once reversing the battery polarity oops:) and this is exactly what happened. Crank, but no fire.

I wonder if the stereo installer did the same thing: Hook up the battery backwards... Ooops! Oh Crap! Then hook it up correctly but didn't realize he had popped fuses...

 

[aaron jansen]

Will test it tonight...feel like such a dumbass for opening up that fuse "box" and not realizing one side is spare and the other is live.

 

[Scottintexas]

Will test it tonight...feel like such a dumbass for opening up that fuse "box" and not realizing one side is spare and the other is live.

We've all been there, I had the spark plugs pulled one day on the water when it wouldn't start before I realized the lanyard was out, ALWAYS start with the easiest items,

 

[Gym]

Okay, I will...thats the fuse under that round cap? I'll pull them all and check...there was like 10 in there? Or is there another I should look for?

I opted for USA so I can get it this week.

My computer doesn't even have a CD drive...can you email me the software and I could use my own product key it comes with? or does it not work like that?

Yes I can @aaron jansen. Can you PM me with your email address?

 

[Ismael Breton]

Posted this on another thread, but really need quick response. Sorry for getting the train off the tracks here guys.

This is all the oil that came out of the engine guys. I haven't taken the filter off yet, and I know I'm supposed to put as much in as I take out. I pumped for about 5 minutes after most of the oil came out and nothing but air came from the pump. Does this seem like too little an amount? What do you guys think?? 2013 AR192

 

[jcyamaharider]

Posted this on another thread, but really need quick response. Sorry for getting the train off the tracks here guys.

This is all the oil that came out of the engine guys. I haven't taken the filter off yet, and I know I'm supposed to put as much in as I take out. I pumped for about 5 minutes after most of the oil came out and nothing but air came from the pump. Does this seem like too little an amount? What do you guys think?? 2013 AR192

Looks about right too me

 

[Gym]

Posted this on another thread, but really need quick response. Sorry for getting the train off the tracks here guys.

This is all the oil that came out of the engine guys. I haven't taken the filter off yet, and I know I'm supposed to put as much in as I take out. I pumped for about 5 minutes after most of the oil came out and nothing but air came from the pump. Does this seem like too little an amount? What do you guys think?? 2013 AR192

That looks like nearly 3 quarts. I agree with @jcyamaharider.

 

[swatski]

Posted this on another thread, but really need quick response. Sorry for getting the train off the tracks here guys.

This is all the oil that came out of the engine guys. I haven't taken the filter off yet, and I know I'm supposed to put as much in as I take out. I pumped for about 5 minutes after most of the oil came out and nothing but air came from the pump. Does this seem like too little an amount? What do you guys think?? 2013 AR192

I would say that looks about right. Assuming you are using a spout/tube/siphon that reaches all the way down the oil stick hole.
One trick some people use is to position the boat such that it would lean down the front/starboard side, like if you have a driveway that slopes - it's pretty easy to do. That will let you drain another 0.5-1 quart in a 1.8l engine.
That oil looks pretty dark, unless it is Royal Purple or something like it.
But don't take it from me! I change mine every 10-20 hours (I know...), so I'm used to seeing it a little more pale, but that's just me.

 

[aaron jansen]

Just got back from the boat. Checked all 5 fuses twice. All looked brand new.

I think I'll try to check the ignition wires next.
@swatski - that diagram of wires is on the back of the gauge that perfect pass is hooked up to? Or somewhere else?

Severe thunderstorm in the area and it was raining so I couldn't stay too long...will have to try that tomorrow.

 

[swatski]

@swatski - that diagram of wires is on the back of the gauge that perfect pass is hooked up to? Or somewhere else?

It was posted by another member @apinks, I found it in some random electric post I can not locate right now. But it is EXACTLY what my ignition switch and harness connector is wired like.

 

[tdonoughue]

I am thinking that this has to be PP-install-related. Too much of a coincidence that it goes in working and comes out not. The fuses were a very good check. But there has to be something else in the install that affected something or disconnected something. Unfortunately, I don't have PP so I don't know as well as others what all it hooks to or is routed near. But some ideas:
1) I know you checked the wiring at the lanyard switch on the switch side. That wire goes somewhere... Was the other side of it disconnected?
2) Did one of the wires on the ignition switch get pulled out (so it just 'cranks' but does not turn it 'on')?
3) Power wires to the ECU?

Yes, I am guessing here. But it has to be something like that. Especially if the fuses are good. (*knocks head on table*)

 

[robert843]

I'm jumping in really late on this and agree with past few posts that it is likely something to do with the way that the perfect pass is wired a kill switch has been hit somewhere but has it been verified there is no spark at the plugs? This would very likely tell that it is for sure something to do with that and not a fuel system issue. I could be wrong about that as well as I'm just guessing that the kill switch kills spark and not the fuel system. Take my comments at arms length as I maybe in over my head lol.

 

[aaron jansen]

I am thinking that this has to be PP-install-related. Too much of a coincidence that it goes in working and comes out not. The fuses were a very good check. But there has to be something else in the install that affected something or disconnected something. Unfortunately, I don't have PP so I don't know as well as others what all it hooks to or is routed near. But some ideas:
1) I know you checked the wiring at the lanyard switch on the switch side. That wire goes somewhere... Was the other side of it disconnected?
2) Did one of the wires on the ignition switch get pulled out (so it just 'cranks' but does not turn it 'on')?
3) Power wires to the ECU?

Yes, I am guessing here. But it has to be something like that. Especially if the fuses are good. (*knocks head on table*)

I'll hopefully have the YDS by Friday so I'll be able to dig deeper if necessary.

I think next I'll try the ignition wires.

Going to reach out to the guy who installed perfect pass to see if he has any insight.

 

[aaron jansen]

I'm jumping in really late on this and agree with past few posts that it is likely something to do with the way that the perfect pass is wired a kill switch has been hit somewhere but has it been verified there is no spark at the plugs? This would very likely tell that it is for sure something to do with that and not a fuel system issue. I could be wrong about that as well as I'm just guessing that the kill switch kills spark and not the fuel system. Take my comments at arms length as I maybe in over my head lol.

I am not sure how to check if it is sparking or not. The plugs were dry when I Changed them and also when I took the new ones out again.

 

[tdonoughue]

There are some cheap spark detectors on Amazon. I forget where our coils are, whether they are on the wire on top of the plug or further back. Problem with a lot of the detectors is that they sit between the plug and the wire. If our coils are on the top of the plug, that means the coil would be off the block and not grounded to it, which means that it won't spark...

All that to say that I don't know that the spark detectors I saw would work on our boats. Anyone have any insight there?

Anyway, I don't think you will find other than that there is no spark there. Otherwise when you pulled the new ones you put in they would not have been squeeky clean.

 

[robert843]

Cant you just pull a plug and ground it to the metal on the engine and hit the ignition? If you do this please do not ground it anywhere near the whole get as far away from it as your cable will allow.

 

[tdonoughue]

Yes, you can. But I am not sure that is so good for the ECU on our type engines. More importantly, it is a good way to get zapped. Ask me how I know.

Fortunately, if you do get zapped, there are no permanent effects. (*twitch*) (*twitch*) Er, um. (*twitch*)

Anyway, your advice to get far away from it is good.

 

[aaron jansen]

Okay @swatski and anyone else with PP knowledge...my installer just emailed me back and said he connected PP to the yellow/red wire.
Is that what you did?

 

[itsdgm]

It more than likely has to do with where he tapped into the system for power and ground. If he tapped into the ignition switch, I'd start there.

Make sure you read up before hand on how to load and hookup the YDS. It's super easy when everything is right, but a .*...*er if it isn't. On my set up I have to have the cable working on "com port 1" or it doesn't work at all.

Once YDS is running you can look at live readings (Engine Monitor). There's a line that shows the cut out switches (it's labeled Enginr Stop Lanyard Switch). I noticed that it will show all three switches (ignition, lanyard & cleanout) on that same line. So if the ignition is on, lanyard in place and cleanout hatch down, the computer will indicate the cutout/safety is off. If you lift the cleanout, remove lanyard or turn ignition off (any single activation or combination of all three) the YDS will show it as ON which kills the ignition.

Here's a few pics of the engine monitor. All 3 pics are of the same "Engine Monitor" session. I just scrolled down and took pics of all the readings.

Note: the line labeled "Engine Start Switch" shows when the starter is activated. It will go from OFF to ON when the starter is activated. Not the ignition ON or OFF.

 

[aaron jansen]

It more than likely has to do with where he tapped into the system for power and ground. If he tapped into the ignition switch, I'd start there.

Make sure you read up before hand on how to load and hookup the YDS. It's super easy when everything is right, but a .*...*er if it isn't. On my set up I have to have the cable working on "com port 1" or it doesn't work at all.

Once YDS is running you can look at live readings (Engine Monitor). There's a line that shows the cut out switches (it's labeled Enginr Stop Lanyard Switch). I noticed that it will show all three switches (ignition, lanyard & cleanout) on that same line. So if the ignition is on, lanyard in place and cleanout hatch down, the computer will indicate the cutout/safety is off. If you lift the cleanout, remove lanyard or turn ignition off (any single activation or combination of all three) the YDS will show it as ON which kills the ignition.

Here's a few pics of the engine monitor. All 3 pics are of the same "Engine Monitor" session. I just scrolled down and took pics of all the readings.

Note: the line labeled "Engine Start Switch" shows when the starter is activated. It will go from OFF to ON when the starter is activated. Not the ignition ON or OFF.

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I won't be able to test that till Friday at best. Maybe I'll try looking at the ignition wires and looking at the perfect pass instructions to see what I'm even looking for.