Boat won't start

[Bill D]

Yeah, with no fire the plugs should still look new. I believe the lanyard is the only safety that will run the starter but not allow the boat to start. Pretty sure the neutral switch and clean out hatch will not let the boat even try.

If you have a multimeter you can ohm the switch out. You should see 0.1 ohms when the lanyard is in and OL or infinity when the lanyard is out.

 

[Gym]

So far I lowered the bow, no start. I put a jump charger on it and tried each of the batteries, nothing.

I checked the clean out hatch and the kill switch as well as being in neutral.

It gets a decent crank, almost sounds like normal just doesn't turn over.

When I changed the plugs yesterday they were dry and black.

I could look at the fuel pump but I don't know what I'm looking for if I took it out.

Voltage is almost at 12 when I try to start. I thought I recalled it being 13.8 last year but I've only looked at that display when it's running and could totally be making up that number.

It drops to 10.5 when cranking for 4-5 seconds.

Have you checked tha lanyard switch yet? You may want to hold it up higher than the clip does. I have seen warn clips not hold the spring loaded kill switch up high enough.

 

[aaron jansen]

Yeah I did try playing with it and lifting higher.

You are correct in the boat won't let you try to start with clean out hatch open.

That's the kill switch. Looks like no corrosion or anything.

Trying to see if anything is disconnected

 

[Gym]

You may want to check the ECM fuse @aaron jansen. It's behind the large black cap on the ECM on the aft bulkhead behind the engine. It's easy to access and the cover has a spare fuse in it.

 

[itsdgm]

You mentioned that you had stereo work done recently. It made me wonder what the recent history was on your boat.

When did the boat run last?
What work was done sine it last ran?

I'm just wondering if a stereo shop tapped into the factory wiring causing an issue. Or if they disconnected something and didn't hook it back up properly.

 

[aaron jansen]

I had stereo and perfect pass done this weekend.

The boat last ran in October. I probably should have started it before I brought it in.

The stereo guy was with me and disconnected perfect pass to make sure that wasn't the issue and looked at the connection of the kill switch. Seemed fine he said.

I just got back from auto zone and got the batteries fully charged. It cranked well but just didn't turn over.

Probably going to have to just take it to the dealer at this point.

 

[tdonoughue]

Did it start to calibrate the PP? I don't have one, but isn't that something you need to start it to do?

 

[swatski]

PP can be tricky, most people use the red/yellow wire coming out of the ignition for switched power. That wire does not connect to anything in the boat harness, but... it can act up nevertheless. I posted a schematic of that switch connection, in case. Post #95 https://jetboaters.net/threads/2016-jetboatpilot-perfect-pass-group-buy.8160/page-5#post-147384

I just installed mine (PP) the other day, and for whatever reason this thing messed up my no wake functions - for about 15min. Once it calibrated itself/whatever, everything has been fine, all functions are working. And one more thing - the system can be turned on or off once operational. However, when you first install, it seems to come ON automatically (by default?). I don't know if that is relevant to your issue though.

 

[Bill D]

Did the installer start the boat after installing the PP? @swatski may be on to something here. His diagram of the ignition switch is a good reference.

 

[aaron jansen]

No, he didnt start the boat after install...he said it checked out and it was ready for the water test and when we got to the lake it wouldnt start.

He did take apart the gauges and unhooked the perfect pass and tried it and got the same result.

 

[itsdgm]

Double check your battery connections.

Also, the lanyard, clean out and ignition switches all trigger a common ignition kill system. I wonder if the stereo or PP system was tapped into the wiring that is designed to kill the ignition. You'd be able to see if the kill switches are activated if you have access to YDS.

 

[itsdgm]

Also, like @Gym mentioned, check the fuses in the main fuse "panel" (usually located in the engine compartment under a round cap). They've been known to blow when guys do work around the battery. It's very likely that the stereo shop momentarily reversed a positive or negative wire and popped a fuse in there. It's happened to a few guys over the years

 

[aaron jansen]

Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it.

I will try the fuses @itsdgm - I opened that thing and pulled out one but it same out so easy I thought they were spares? IDK what I was thinking. I will take a second look.

Such a disappointing weekend and next weekend is the wife's birthday and she's not going to me sit in the driveway messing with this thing all weekend again.

The only positive is that the lights and stereo sound great and I installed seadeck.

 

[aaron jansen]

Double check your battery connections.

Also, the lanyard, clean out and ignition switches all trigger a common ignition kill system. I wonder if the stereo or PP system was tapped into the wiring that is designed to kill the ignition. You'd be able to see if the kill switches are activated if you have access to YDS.

Whats YDS and where would I see if kill switch is activated?

 

[Bill D]

YDS is Yamaha Diagnostic Software. It plugs up to your boat and shows you all the diagnostics. Looks like you can got one on Ebay for about $60 or perhaps a member in your area has one you can borrow? You could also just jump out the switches one at a time to diagnose if that is your problem. It wouldn't take much time to rule them out as possible causes.

Although, knowing that you had something installed at the helm, it seems logical to make sure everything is good there.

 

[aaron jansen]

I just bought a YDS on eBay...should be here by Friday So Hopefully this can help solve the issue.

I had to pay $85 for it because the cheaper ones were from overseas

 

[Gym]

I just bought a YDS on eBay...should be here by Friday So Hopefully this can help solve the issue.

I had to pay $85 for it because the cheaper ones were from overseas

I believe my YDS came from Croatia. The disk was damaged so they emailed me the software. In any event check your ECM fuse before getting too deep.

 

[aaron jansen]

I believe my YDS came from Croatia. The disk was damaged so they emailed me the software. In any event check your ECM fuse before getting too deep.

Okay, I will...thats the fuse under that round cap? I'll pull them all and check...there was like 10 in there? Or is there another I should look for?

I opted for USA so I can get it this week.

My computer doesn't even have a CD drive...can you email me the software and I could use my own product key it comes with? or does it not work like that?

 

[itsdgm]

You're right @aaron jansen about the fuses. If I remember correctly, one column are spares and the other column are in use.

 

[aaron jansen]

You're right @aaron jansen about the fuses. If I remember correctly, one column are spares and the other column are in use.

Yeah, so that's a little frustrating I didnt check that...I will dig into that one day after work this week.