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Boat Won't Turn Over. UPDATE 6/14/2022, ALL GOOD!

Perhaps the issue is that with the engine not turning over, any time spent with the key in the start position is time with a very very high amp draw and no movement, so after a few tries it burns the solenoid.

Just a theory, but a good reminder for me, if engine does not turn over, release the key and research before trying again. If the engine is locked up and not turning, it seems the starter solenoid can burn up.
Im sure that’s exactly what happened. It could have fried the starter motor too. Maybe the solenoid protected it.

I just burned up a big 220v motor on a lift I have and it happened remarkably fast. High amps and no movement is really bad.
 
My 242 was dead beginning of last season and with advice from someone on here i checked the nuts on all battery switches and they were loose. I could not believe it. it was a pain to take apart and they are thru bolted into the engine compartment.
 
Which is damned near impossible to get to. Looking at the service manual, no, just the relay. Which has only 4.7 ohms running across the contacts. I think ai found my culprit, someone else actually has this same problem. Suck up a rock, kills the engine, it won't even try to turn over. Bad starter relay. View attachment 180164
I had a starter relay in my 2014 crap out when I sucked up a rope....glad you found the problem!
 
Watch this video I posted. At least for my 2018 SX190, it's on the back engine bay wall just to the right of the fuse box. On the earlier AR, SX190 models it was on the left side, behind what I think was a round screw on fuse box cover?

2016-2018 models?

But to throw a wrench in the works, I have a C.A.R.B model since I live in California. The fuse box for mine is on the right, and the battery cable is also on the right. On the Federal models, the fuse box is on the left, with the starter relay being in the middle of the fuse box and the ECM...

View attachment 180422

Up to 2015 models?
View attachment 180419
Up to 2015 models the starter relay is actually on the BACK of the black box in the engine compartment as per the picture above. Which means to replace it you have to take it off. Which of course bolts through into the bilge area. Super fun to unbolt it if getting fiberglass shards in your arm is what you consider fun :) And you need 2 people because it's impossible to reach both the bolt and nut at the same time.

Recent models they moved it to the front, not surprisingly.
 
Took my wife and kids out today and happy to report back it went perfect. No cavitation, no loss of power, with 6 people on board we got the boat up to what the speedo says is 44, so I'm happy as a pig in shite.

Thanks to all who messaged me with sage advice!
 
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