Bought myself a project '99 LS2000

[dabomb6608]

@dabomb6608 what are the specs for the fuel pump you added? I’m adding fuel air separators as well...decided to do one for each engine.

I ordered solid state (marine rated) airtex pumps that move 30 GPM @ 2.5 to 4.5 psi. But now I’m second guessing myself.

The pump I purchased is 35 GPH and rated 4-7 psi. Using one to supply both engines. It seems to be working just fine to supply the engines. One thing to make sure the pump is capable of doing is "self-priming".

 

[the MfM]

The pump I purchased is 35 GPH and rated 4-7 psi. Using one to supply both engines. It seems to be working just fine to supply the engines. One thing to make sure the pump is capable of doing is "self-priming".

Here’s the ones I ordered.

Amazon.com: Airtex E8251 Universal Solid State Electric Fuel Pump for Marine Applications: Automotive

Buy Airtex E8251 Universal Solid State Electric Fuel Pump for Marine Applications: Electric Fuel Pumps - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

They should be self priming but I also have primer bulbs that I’m leaving in place. For priming the pumps after the initial install and filter changes if needed.

IDK if the PSI is going to be a problem But the description says they can be used as a booster or stand alone fuel pump. So the pulse pumps should be able to pull through the pump if more fuel is needed.

I figure the electric pump is only needed to keep the air separating can full. The pulse pumps will pull what they need from there...Next size up airtex was 5-9psi which seemed high to me.

 

[dabomb6608]

Yeah the pulse pump will pull what they need from the separator portion of the setup. Then anything unused will get purged to the return line

 

[Eloy2]

If that isn't the truth lol. I knew full well going into it to expect the worst. At the price I got it I knew I could drop two motors into it and still be ahead so wasn't too concerned.

I guess I should update my profile info on here. I am in Southern Illinois, boating on Lake of Egypt mainly with some trips to the Ohio River and possibly Rend Lake. I saw in June there is a river run going on over on the Kaskaskia River we talked about potentially checking out in June as well.

I grew up boating on the Ohio River down in Golconda, IL. Family had a 27' Bayliner and my jetski. Some of my favorite memories were made down there.

Hello all,

Long post ahead but catching up about 2 weeks worth of messing around and getting a little background of me out of the way. Posted this on the old forum before I realized this was a "newer" version. Longtime member over at greenhulk under the name "raiderteen". Might post up there as well.

Been boating for about 15 years now, since I was about 11 years old. Got a '95 Waveraider 1100 summer of 2005 and still have it kicking around. That being said I have extensive experience with these 1100/1200 Yamaha motors. Had a '96 Glastron last summer as my own first boat. Bought it cheap with a cracked manifold and warped head. Got it running and ran it all summer long before selling it for a nice profit. I'm very mechanically inclined and not really afraid of jumping into any projects. I do mechanic work on jetskis/boats/vehicles on the side and buy/sell/trade a lot. Currently sitting on 7 different skis I bought over winter and have fixed up. Rebuilt several Yamaha power valve motors and also non-power valve ones over the past few years for customers or from skis I was flipping.

Well Feb 21st I found myself this '99 LS2000. Purchased for $2000 in "as is" condition. Owner stated one motor shut down and he thought had electrical issues. Other motor supposedly ran. Pretty dirty cosmetically but really just needing a deep cleaning. Few rips in sun deck and rear back rests. Otherwise in decent shape. I knew going into it to expect the worst as that's how everything goes when purchasing used from someone who doesn't know anything about them. But I knew what I was getting and knowing I have experience with these motors made me confident enough to purchase. without any hesitation. The market for these is still good it seems around here and I have plenty of meat on the bones to invest in it and still sell down the line when I upgrade. I promised my significant other we would be keeping this one for at least 2 or so years...unless I get a insane offer that is lol.

Anyways, got it home and started digging into it. First a compression check. Port motor I could spin by hand at the coupler. Starboard seemed froze. Both motors didn't click or attempt to turn over initially even with jumping the solenoid. Checked wiring and all was good. No corroded cables or any other typical issues. Pulled starters and jumped them with cables. Still nothing. Port starter was froze and starboard starter had something catching when I spun it by hand. Tore them apart and found a froze bearing in the port starter and destroyed magnets in the starboard. Had a spare starter from a Kawasaki that had a matching center section. Between the three I was able to get both working properly.

With the starters reinstalled it was back to a compression check. Port motor checked out fine. ~120 across all three. Starboard was a different story. Something had it bound up. At that point I decided to start tearing it down.

But before I did that I wanted to test fire the port motor. Poured some premix down the carbs and turned the gas valve on and it started right up. Great! Back to the problem motor....

Once the head was removed I found a mag piston with a hole burned through it. Scaring in mag and PTO cylinders. Was very substantial in Mag cylinder. PTO was just slightly scared below exhaust port. A quick note, these were converted to premix. I removed the Mag piston in an attempt to see if I could find any obstructions to the crank in the casing. Nothing there. I removed the front cover to inspect the flywheel and bendix. Nothing other then a lack of grease everywhere. Had rusty shavings that I believe were from a worn bendix that stuck or from missing washers on the bendix.

At this point I started trying to rotate the motor by hand. It would rotate slightly, so I tried seeing if I could hear where it was "hitting". Looking at the coupler it looked like the coupler was resisting. So I decided at that point to turn my attention to the pump. After some choice words and a bit of force the pump finally pulled out. And I found my second major issue. A corroded impeller housing causing the liner to swell and contact the impeller. Good news was the motor now turned over. The bad news was I noticed somehow the midshaft had broke and the only thing holding it in place before was the driveshaft splines...

I started tear down of the carbs. They weren't "terrible" but they weren't "great" either. No clogged jets or passages. Return restrictors were clear. Fuel pump check valves weren't creased. They just had a bit of nasty from old fuel sitting in them. Genuine Mikuni diaphragms that were still soft. I did notice that my High and Low screws were adjusted from factory spec. With the Mag carb having highs almost half a turn lean.... I was a bit concerned that I didn't find any substantial evidence of a fueling issue other then the high/low screws.

Another thing to note. Both engines appear to be SBT motors. For sure the starboard. Pistons are SBT brand.

I then unbolted the engine from the mounts. Noticed one rubber mount was separated and no longer usable. This potentially caused a misalignment which caused the mid shaft issue mentioned later. From there I was able to yank the rest of the motor out by hand last night ever so carefully. Being a tall and lanky build certainly helps in tight areas. I wrapped a tie down around the motor making sure to secure it from shifting any. Then lifted it up and onto the back swim platform. Then jumped out of the boat and carried it into the garage.

At this point I also removed the mid shaft assembly. Confirmed the shaft itself did indeed break at the coupler. Appeared to be an old break as it had rust on the breaks surfaces. With the splines on both ends of the break its highly possible it went unnoticed as it still would function with maybe a bit of chatter.

I started tear down of the crankcase. Once apart I cleaned out the cases and inspected the crank. I am a bit weary of a couple bearings. Its possible there are some aluminum pieces still hanging out in them and it needs a very thorough flushing/cleaning. I've had worse feeling bearings from a PV motor clean out great and be just fine. The aluminum is much softer then the steel bearings thankfully so hopefully they clean out fine.

A few side notes I found on the motor tear down. It appears this motor busted out the bottom of the crankcase when SBT got a hold of it. Its been welded and repaired. I have pictures of that as well.

At this point last week I was at a cross roads between rebuild/reman motor/used motor. I ended up finding a killer deal on a complete running motor with electronics/carbs/exhaust out of a exciter on eBay for about $600. It is located down in south Florida so needed to arrange shipping. I got a hold of the shipping company who delivered my Harley from south Florida a few years ago and sure enough they will be heading up this way with a load of bikes after Bike Week in Daytona. So looks like potentially the week of 18th-22nd I could have the motor in my hands. Cost was $200 for them to bring it up. That timeline works out perfect for me considering I leave this Saturday for a cruise and won't be home till the 17th. I plan to do a thorough cleaning of the engine compartment when I get back in town before dropping the new motor in.

With going this route I will have a spare motor to rebuild this spring, spare carb set, spare E-Box, as well as spare exhaust manifold/stinger.


Once I have the motor dropped in and everything tests out okay I have upgrades here and there planned.. Most likely will install the groupk fuel/air separator. Stereo system install. Add some LED lights throughout. Maybe do the steering upgrades available. Sticker delete/replacement as most are faded. Deep clean everything. Hyrdoturf mats or Seadek if my wallet can take the hit. Find a replacement step ladder as the main U hoop is missing. Dual batteries. Gauge upgrades. The list is long and will get done slowly through the summer. I've got a solid month or two before boating season kicks in full swing so have plenty of time to at least get her water ready. I have already spent the past two weeks soaking up additional info about these boats from here including a lot of the "must dos". I look forward to sharing my progress as I move forward on it.

Here are shots of the boat and motor tear down.
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Hey, you need a new friend? I’m looking to pick up a 99 LS 2000 with p port engine that is sucking air at low idle thru a seal? This is the conversation I had with the seller. “

Thank u for ur email. I just signed for a new boat and the dealership will take mine on trade in at 7-10k, so price is firm just to be up front. The rear main seal leak means potentially more air could get into the engine running the reps slightly higher in one engine more than the other. It is currently running in the 50 mile an hour range. While driving it I have had zero issues with the exception of occiaonly when I'm at extremely low rpms. Hope that helps. The shop said to do nothing about it at this time. They stated to run it as is until the engine craps out. To replace the engine with labor included they quoted me 2800 but said they wouldn't replace it until it broke and it has ran great for me.​

Your previous message What do you mean by rear seal, pretend I don’t know anything about this kind of boat, because I don’t. And how much ball park do you think it might cost to repair if it needs it in the future? Send me pics please. I am very interested, from southern Illinois. Five hours or so away. Thanks!​

 

[dabomb6608]

Hey, you need a new friend? I’m looking to pick up a 99 LS 2000 with p port engine that is sucking air at low idle thru a seal? This is the conversation I had with the seller. “

​

​ ​ Thank u for ur email. I just signed for a new boat and the dealership will take mine on trade in at 7-10k, so price is firm just to be up front. The rear main seal leak means potentially more air could get into the engine running the reps slightly higher in one engine more than the other. It is currently running in the 50 mile an hour range. While driving it I have had zero issues with the exception of occiaonly when I'm at extremely low rpms. Hope that helps. The shop said to do nothing about it at this time. They stated to run it as is until the engine craps out. To replace the engine with labor included they quoted me 2800 but said they wouldn't replace it until it broke and it has ran great for me.​

To start, I wouldn't pay near that much ($7000) for a LS2000 with a motor that potentially has a rear main seal leak. Reason being is that repair requires the engine to be removed, completely tore down including splitting the cases, and then resealed and reinstalled. This is pretty labor (time) intensive and if having performed at a shop could get expensive quick. I charge just shy of half what shops around here charge for hourly rate and it would still be over $500 for the repair.

There are a few things that bother me about the described problem and even worse the recommendation from the dealer...I also cant believe the dealership is offering top dollar trade in for a boat with a engine that needs that kind of work.

Typically, but not always, when the rear main fails it will cause the engine to "lean runaway" when started out of the water. Lean runaway is basically a engine that will instantly rev wide open and will not shut off using the kill switch. Its not fun to put lightly. Now I've seen some "run" mediocre while in the water with a blown rear seal but not well or long before something goes boom...they can also fail with only a minor air leak but again the motor will not last long as a lean running motor is basically on its death bed, especially 2 strokes.

The fact that the dealership is recommending running it until it blows is pretty mind boggling. That just screams "we want to make the most money we can off of you so blow the engine and we will gladly sell you a remanufactured engine for a fortune".

Then again the fact they are offering $7-$10k for a boat needing that work kind of seems fishy anyways. Either he is BS'ing about what they offered him or they are BS'ing him with the diagnostics.

There is a possibility that it was misdiagnosed and has a simpler issue. These engines are incredibly sensitive to any issue with the air/fuel mixture. So could be a issue with the carburetors, air leaks elsewhere in the system, etc. To be able to diagnose this properly they should have performed a crankcase pressure test. I would be asking questions on how they determined their diagnostics...

Keep in mind it is ALWAYS recommended to get the carbs rebuilt using genuine mikuni kits and by a person who knows what they are doing or yourself if confident enough in your abilities. I charge $100 per carb to give you an idea of cost...You have 6 carbs in that boat so you would be looking at $600 alone in that. Seeing as carbs are one of the top two causes when a 2 stroke jetboat/ski motor fails it is money well spent. While they are off the oil lines should be replaced with quality lines and secured with Oetiker clamps. That is the other top 2 cause of engine failure in these...

Long response but I hope this info helps.

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

Hey, you need a new friend? I’m looking to pick up a 99 LS 2000 with p port engine that is sucking air at low idle thru a seal? This is the conversation I had with the seller. “

I wouldn't pay 7k for an LS2000 with problems. Maybe 7k for a freshwater only boat in perfect condition. You can find nice ones for 6k or less. I paid 4k for mine about 2 years ago and it was pretty much perfect.

 

[dabomb6608]

I wouldn't pay 7k for an LS2000 with problems. Maybe 7k for a freshwater only boat in perfect condition. You can find nice ones for 6k or less. I paid 4k for mine about 2 years ago and it was pretty much perfect.

Exactly, a $7k LS2000 with potentially major engine issues is laughable at best.

 

[Eloy2]

To start, I wouldn't pay near that much ($7000) for a LS2000 with a motor that potentially has a rear main seal leak. Reason being is that repair requires the engine to be removed, completely tore down including splitting the cases, and then resealed and reinstalled. This is pretty labor (time) intensive and if having performed at a shop could get expensive quick. I charge just shy of half what shops around here charge for hourly rate and it would still be over $500 for the repair.

There are a few things that bother me about the described problem and even worse the recommendation from the dealer...I also cant believe the dealership is offering top dollar trade in for a boat with a engine that needs that kind of work.

Typically, but not always, when the rear main fails it will cause the engine to "lean runaway" when started out of the water. Lean runaway is basically a engine that will instantly rev wide open and will not shut off using the kill switch. Its not fun to put lightly. Now I've seen some "run" mediocre while in the water with a blown rear seal but not well or long before something goes boom...they can also fail with only a minor air leak but again the motor will not last long as a lean running motor is basically on its death bed, especially 2 strokes.

The fact that the dealership is recommending running it until it blows is pretty mind boggling. That just screams "we want to make the most money we can off of you so blow the engine and we will gladly sell you a remanufactured engine for a fortune".

Then again the fact they are offering $7-$10k for a boat needing that work kind of seems fishy anyways. Either he is BS'ing about what they offered him or they are BS'ing him with the diagnostics.

There is a possibility that it was misdiagnosed and has a simpler issue. These engines are incredibly sensitive to any issue with the air/fuel mixture. So could be a issue with the carburetors, air leaks elsewhere in the system, etc. To be able to diagnose this properly they should have performed a crankcase pressure test. I would be asking questions on how they determined their diagnostics...

Keep in mind it is ALWAYS recommended to get the carbs rebuilt using genuine mikuni kits and by a person who knows what they are doing or yourself if confident enough in your abilities. I charge $100 per carb to give you an idea of cost...You have 6 carbs in that boat so you would be looking at $600 alone in that. Seeing as carbs are one of the top two causes when a 2 stroke jetboat/ski motor fails it is money well spent. While they are off the oil lines should be replaced with quality lines and secured with Oetiker clamps. That is the other top 2 cause of engine failure in these...

Long response but I hope this info helps.

Thanks so much for your time and knowledge. I live in cypress, and plan on boating on Egypt as well. If I can get this boat at a good price, can I have you evaluate and give me a price on anything that needs repaired? Thanks again.

 

[dabomb6608]

Thanks so much for your time and knowledge. I live in cypress, and plan on boating on Egypt as well. If I can get this boat at a good price, can I have you evaluate and give me a price on anything that needs repaired? Thanks again.

No problem. More than welcome to contact me. You can find me on facebook here or send me a pm and I can give you my cell. I boat Lake of Egypt as well, usually out every weekend through the summer in my LS2000.

 

[the MfM]

I wouldn't pay 7k for an LS2000 with problems. Maybe 7k for a freshwater only boat in perfect condition. You can find nice ones for 6k or less. I paid 4k for mine about 2 years ago and it was pretty much perfect.

Exactly, a $7k LS2000 with potentially major engine issues is laughable at best.

Two years ago I’d agree but today with all the covid related demand its not that ridiculous of an ask. Someone else was asking about a two stroke pwc for $4800. Which also seems high till you look at prices and supply for the alternatives.

If the boats in good shape otherwise the price isn’t terrible imho. (Compared to the alternatives) Even more so if you can rebuild the carbs yourself and or drop in a new $1200 sbt engine.

 

[dabomb6608]

Two years ago I’d agree but today with all the covid related demand its not that ridiculous of an ask. Someone else was asking about a two stroke pwc for $4800. Which also seems high till you look at prices and supply for the alternatives.

If the boats in good shape otherwise the price isn’t terrible imho. (Compared to the alternatives) Even more so if you can rebuild the carbs yourself and or drop in a new $1200 sbt engine.

I agree demand and prices right now are absolutely nuts...

I just find this particular situation a bit odd from the dealers actions. Maybe its the lack of trust I have for just about any dealer (and the dealer service shops)...But its crazy to me that the dealer is willing to throw $7k on trade for a 1999 LS2000 with supposedly a engine needing full tear down or potentially replacement. It is equally crazy what the dealer is recommending them do as well (run it till it blows). That right there is making the warning sirens go off in my opinion of that dealer.

I have nothing against the seller, as I would assume he is just going off the information presented to him from the dealer who he most likely trusts...

 

[dabomb6608]

Two years ago I’d agree but today with all the covid related demand its not that ridiculous of an ask. Someone else was asking about a two stroke pwc for $4800. Which also seems high till you look at prices and supply for the alternatives.

If the boats in good shape otherwise the price isn’t terrible imho. (Compared to the alternatives) Even more so if you can rebuild the carbs yourself and or drop in a new $1200 sbt engine.

Another angle on this demand/price situation is that I don't think it is a great idea in the current market to be rushing out and purchasing a boat. Once the boat market returns to "normal" there are going to be a lot of people hurting if they have to sell a boat for less than what they owe on it. Almost like a 2008 housing crash in the boating world. That does change a bit when talking about these particular models due to lower purchase prices (compared to the 4strokers ) and people paying cash...

Granted this is just a biased opinion of someone who already owns a boat that was purchased "on the cheap". If I was without a boat and really wanting one I would probably have a different mindset and be biting the bullet of buying an overpriced boat

 

[Eloy2]

Two years ago I’d agree but today with all the covid related demand its not that ridiculous of an ask. Someone else was asking about a two stroke pwc for $4800. Which also seems high till you look at prices and supply for the alternatives.

If the boats in good shape otherwise the price isn’t terrible imho. (Compared to the alternatives) Even more so if you can rebuild the carbs yourself and or drop in a new $1200 sbt engine.

I’ve got it for less than 5000.00 and it’s very clean, no rips, everything works, new tires and herrings on trailer. Will have it gone thru and motors and drives checked and or rebuilt. Drove it 45 min. Cold ride but I’ve been looking for this boat for a while now. Getting hard to find in this shape.

 

[Eloy2]

Another angle on this demand/price situation is that I don't think it is a great idea in the current market to be rushing out and purchasing a boat. Once the boat market returns to "normal" there are going to be a lot of people hurting if they have to sell a boat for less than what they owe on it. Almost like a 2008 housing crash in the boating world. That does change a bit when talking about these particular models due to lower purchase prices (compared to the 4strokers ) and people paying cash...

Granted this is just a biased opinion of someone who already owns a boat that was purchased "on the cheap". If I was without a boat and really wanting one I would probably have a different mindset and be biting the bullet of buying an overpriced boat

I agree with you but I’m the kind of guy that gets his toys and makes them right and then keeps them. Got the boat for under 5000. So even if it needs work I’m still ahead as I have exactly what I’ve been looking for at a reasonable cost. I’ll be contacting you to bring it in for any repairs, upgrades it will need before spring. Thanks again for all your help, made negotiations a lot easier.

 

[dabomb6608]

I agree with you but I’m the kind of guy that gets his toys and makes them right and then keeps them. Got the boat for under 5000. So even if it needs work I’m still ahead as I have exactly what I’ve been looking for at a reasonable cost. I’ll be contacting you to bring it in for any repairs, upgrades it will need before spring. Thanks again for all your help, made negotiations a lot easier.

With it being what you wanted and at a price you are happy with then nothing wrong with it regardless of the price tag. Glad to have helped and look forward to hearing from you and seeing you out on the lake! Looks like I won't be the only LS2000 out there anymore lol.

 

[dabomb6608]

Guess I can update this post on my own boats status.

I am really hoping to get the fiancé convinced into installing a sub/amp setup this season. We have our wedding coming up in May so that might be a hard sale but it doesn't hurt to try...beyond that there wasn't too much needing attention this season. Still would like to get some upholstery work done but that will come later.

 

[dabomb6608]

Well I did it....I talked my fiancé into doing the sub/amp install this season!

I've ordered up a JBL 1800W 5-Channel Amp along with a JL Audio M3 10". That amp should provide plenty of juice to the existing Kicker 6.5s I installed last season and has a separate sub channel that will push the JL Audio 10". This will all pair well with the Kenwood headunit I have as well. It has 3 separate output channels Rear, Front, and Sub so I will have good control over final tuning for each channel.

I'm not too sure yet where I will be mounting the subwoofer. The boat is still parked in the back with the winter cover on it but once I get it in the driveway and uncovered I will be able to take some measurements. I am hoping to install either somewhere on the passenger console or the wall next to passenger seat if there is enough depth to the exterior wall. Where ever I mount it I want to be able to mirror in the future on the opposite side JUST incase I ever decide to install a second sub...

My amp will be mounted near the stock stereo inside the passenger console area. I have a sneaky feeling this will lead to a second battery install but will be feeling it out for now. We don't generally have the music playing for 5+ hours at a time while tied up or anchored out so I might be okay. The one thing I might do is setup a trickle charger to be able to plug it in when we get home to help fully recharge the battery after each outing.

 

[Eloy2]

Well I did it....I talked my fiancé into doing the sub/amp install this season!

I've ordered up a JBL 1800W 5-Channel Amp along with a JL Audio M3 10". That amp should provide plenty of juice to the existing Kicker 6.5s I installed last season and has a separate sub channel that will push the JL Audio 10". This will all pair well with the Kenwood headunit I have as well. It has 3 separate output channels Rear, Front, and Sub so I will have good control over final tuning for each channel.

I'm not too sure yet where I will be mounting the subwoofer. The boat is still parked in the back with the winter cover on it but once I get it in the driveway and uncovered I will be able to take some measurements. I am hoping to install either somewhere on the passenger console or the wall next to passenger seat if there is enough depth to the exterior wall. Where ever I mount it I want to be able to mirror in the future on the opposite side JUST incase I ever decide to install a second sub...

My amp will be mounted near the stock stereo inside the passenger console area. I have a sneaky feeling this will lead to a second battery install but will be feeling it out for now. We don't generally have the music playing for 5+ hours at a time while tied up or anchored out so I might be okay. The one thing I might do is setup a trickle charger to be able to plug it in when we get home to help fully recharge the battery after each outing.

Sounds like fun

 

[captainhook]

Enjoyed reading the thread and your hard work.

Audio is a slippery slope, do yourself a favor and just install the second battery and trickle charger now. We’ve all been here and learned that lesson. ?

 

[dabomb6608]

Had a very productive weekend working on the boat in between customer skis. Got the amp installed/wired up and the subwoofer installed as well. I'm waiting on a inline fuse to do a final install of my power lead to the amp but temporarily hooked it up for testing in the meantime. Sub sounds great and I am very excited to actually be able to crank on it and do some amp tuning out on the water. I didn't want to be blaring music in my neighborhood, as I already draw enough attention with the amount of jetskis I'm constantly starting here.

When I first started looking at things I thought I was going to have to mount the amp where the sub ended up with the sub being mounted further back towards the 6.5 speaker on that side. After some brainstorming and quality time up close and personal to the available space......


I ended up making a mount/support out of a spare sheet of aluminum I had laying around to mount the amp.







The above picture shows a tab I bent up to limit vibration/shaking of the support. Had a rubber vacuum port cap laying around that will work perfectly to keep it from eating through the fiberglass.

Mounting the amp like this allowed me to keep the amp adjustments easily accessible as well as gave me the ability to install the sub in a spot that is easily mirrorable on the starboard side if I chose to in the future. Wiring was also able to be fairly clean and my short RCA cables kept organized as well. None of the speaker wires needed extended. The only new wiring is the obvious power wires to battery and the amp turn on wire from the headunit along with the 3 RCA cable pairs for the Forward, Rear & Sub channels.

The sub was fairly easy to mount. This spot has 2 vertical reinforcements with 2" wood strips in the fiberglass. The position the sub is mounted allows 4 of the 6 mounting screws to go through those wood strips for further hold strength.



The existing holes remaining above the sub are from an old Kenwood disc changer that was mounted above where the sub is now mounted. I will eventually fill those in. I was able to reuse one for the amp support.

All in all this was a fun project, glad I did this on a low 60* day and not any hotter. That would have been absolutely miserable later in the year with any bit of humidity.