• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Brand new 2022 sx190 overheating

SteveS113

Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
10
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
19
I have a brand new 2022 sx190 with 15 hours on it that is overheating. Been into the dealership twice, first time it overheated was ~13 hours. There is a steady stream of water out of the pee hole. They are telling me it is because I likely sucked something into the engine cooling passages and they have to remove the whole engine to diagnose and it will not be covered by warranty (~$2600).

I have never beached the boat or been in exceptionally shallow water. I have sucked up a few weeds but have been able to pull then through the clean out port, nothing that has seemed out of the ordinary. I have only been in fresh water (but the dealership does their test runs in salt).

I called the only other dealership in the area and they can't even look at it until May.

Has anyone dealt with something similar? Trying to decide what to do here.
 
I have a brand new 2022 sx190 with 15 hours on it that is overheating. Been into the dealership twice, first time it overheated was ~13 hours. There is a steady stream of water out of the pee hole. They are telling me it is because I likely sucked something into the engine cooling passages and they have to remove the whole engine to diagnose and it will not be covered by warranty (~$2600).
:Welcome:
Check the cooling intake grate to make sure it's clear:
If there's crap covering that intake screen, it will reduce cooling water flow, although good flow at idle means it's clear.

As for the engine needs to be pulled, I doubt it's a blocked passage - could be a stuck thermostat. Anything that can get through that strainer is too small to block the passages (except maybe sand) and would get dumped out the thermostat bypass or pilot outlet without issue. You can check the bypass outlet to ensure hot water is coming out. It's located near the exhaust under the swim platform and should be a round plastic fitting about 1/2". Once the engines warm up, the thermostat will dump hot water out the back of the boat. But if the thermostat is sticking closed for some reason, it can't cool properly.
 
I had an issue and it ended up being a bad heat sensor get a non contact thermometer and take readings when it says it is hot muffler, exhaust manifold head and see if it is hot in any of those locations my problem occurred at any given time and finally it did it on the trailer with the engine cold if it is irregular then the cooling passages are probably ok since a blockage would be a consistent issue a bad sensor will act up irregularly. And you won't get a heat reading above normal . check some of these posts https://jetboaters.net/search/457686/?q=bad+heat+sensor&c[users]=Cobra+Jet+Steering+LLC&o=relevance my issue was covered by warranty once I provided all the info and I believe it was one toward the front of the engine that was bad.
 
Thank you both for your responses. The dealership has checked everything with the non-contact thermometer and have guaranteed that the thermostat and everything else is working right. They said there is no strainer to prevent blockages from going into the engine (which seems like it is wrong) but they have "guaranteed" that the issue is blockage in the cooling passages. At this point everyone else has a significant backlog so I'm out of options and I'm going to let them pull the engine but they said if they do not find a blockage I will not be charged. If they do find a blockage I guess I'll be out $2600 or a couple gas tanks worth of money.
 
That's total BS, as a steady stream would mean water is passing through the engine. Being new to the boat through, your definition of "steady" may be different than mine. But my stream needs to really fizzle for it to overheat the engine in my experience.

So if it arcs away from the hull when the engine is at no wake speed, then there is no blockage. Heck most of us see an arc of water at idle. That dealer should be going to battle for you on the warranty side. Keep in mind, there is little chance that you will see a steady stream while on the hose as well. So do your testing in the lake.

Good luck,
 
Sorry how did they check the engine temp???was it overheating when they checked it where did they find the hot spot???? I would suspect the thermostat and check it yourself first if it is in fact overheating , remove it put it in a pan of water with a cooking thermometer in the pan to show the water temp and slowly heat the water and see if the thermostat opens at the correct temperature that is usually printed on it. If it opens correctly it is working I would then take a big wet vac and place the hose on the vacant thermostat cover opening and see if you can suck out any trash from the water jackets. I would also do the same thing to the water box "MUFFLER" via the top hose. There are several temperature sensors on these and I still suspect that may be the issue but remember the old saying "the fox watching the hen house". I do not know anything about your dealer or even who it is this is just a saying but if they say you had a blockage " you pay" and if they don't find any blockage " you don't pay" there is another old saying GET A SECOND OPINION! When an engine goes into limp mode and you inspect the block and muffler for excess heat with the thermometer you know it is either overheating or not overheating. I dealt with that for a year with no evidence of the engine overheating at all and that was because it was a bad heat sensor. Good luck with your situation I hope it works out for you. But just for the heck of it what happens if it continues to occur, perhaps you sucked up more stuff and you get to make the same choice over again. Think about it. one more thing if it overheats after you backed the boat up in shallow water you may be picking up trash from the bottom, do the reverse move, find a safe place with sufficient water depth back the boat up as fast as you can and kill the engine with the throttle in forward so the nozzle is pushed backward in the water and the water flows through the nozzle backward and out the intake grate washing out any trash that may be blocking the inside pickup of the pump for cooling water. On electronic reverse buckets you may need to hit forward before killing the engine. Also keep in mind if it goes into limp mode for overheating that is when you use the non contact thermometer to see if any part is hot.
 
Last edited:
They said there is no strainer to prevent blockages from going into the engine (which seems like it is wrong)
Well that's wrong, the strainer is in the pump and visible.
but they have "guaranteed" that the issue is blockage in the cooling passages. At this point everyone else has a significant backlog so I'm out of options and I'm going to let them pull the engine but they said if they do not find a blockage I will not be charged. If they do find a blockage I guess I'll be out $2600 or a couple gas tanks worth of money.
I'd check the thermostat like Jeff said first. I doubt it's a blockage. If you do get the engine pulled and it turns out it's a sticking thermostat or sensor, you won't be paying anything.
 
Yes there is a block on the side of the pump body where the cooling water is sent to the engine and that has a strainer and that is what gets blocked if you suck up trash and then the pissers do not shoot out water so you know there is an issue also if you ever overheated an engine you usually see steam coming out the pisser hole.
 
a steady stream would mean water is passing through the engine.
I'm not sure on that...I believe the cooling flows through two ways from a splitter in the line, one is through the engine, the other is the exhaust > rectifier > oil pump > pilot outlet. It's possible to have a blockage inside the engine and still have water streaming out the pilot holes, and the pilot outlet is warm from cooling the rectifier and oil pump, not hot like the thermostat bypass which is 160+ degrees. You can put your hand in the pilot water during or right after a run and it's just warm, not burning hot like the hot engine thermostat bypass which is under the swim platform.
 
there is no strainer
That white block in the jetpump is the strainer and fine sand might get in there, but that's about it. Most blockages would be from hard water or salt build up if not doing flushes:
strainer.jpg
Pic from Julian's thread above.
 
I have actually seen the water jackets filled nearly to the top with sand however it takes some doing to accomplish that, I always cringe when I drive through passes with the water sand colored because I know it is fine silt suspended in the water due to a fast current and it can get in the water jackets but it would take a lot of driving in that color water to do harm to the engine. one thing is it would overheat all the time not sporadically. leading me back to occasional trash in the pump from backing in shallow water or a bad sensor as this has been a common issue even years ago people would install resistors in place of the sensors because the sensors were really unreliable . It seems to rear it's ugly head on occasion and since they are having some chip issues and shortages who knows.
 
I'm not sure on that...I believe the cooling flows through two ways from a splitter in the line, one is through the engine, the other is the exhaust > rectifier > oil pump > pilot outlet. It's possible to have a blockage inside the engine and still have water streaming out the pilot holes, and the pilot outlet is warm from cooling the rectifier and oil pump, not hot like the thermostat bypass which is 160+ degrees. You can put your hand in the pilot water during or right after a run and it's just warm, not burning hot like the hot engine thermostat bypass which is under the swim platform.

You are correct, it does split and stream out the side as well as the back. But just the fact that a stream is coming out the side, proves there is not a blockage of water coming into the engine. Still possible internally, but not on the inlet screen that you pointed out in your follow up post.

When I get that blocked, the side pisser is a trickle if anything at all. It's there for a reason, to identify a blockage
 
A couple different guys I've seen on youtube with 210's had a similar issues, turned out that some of the inlet hoses were made too long and kinked in the engine compartment from the factory. Same idiots might be working the 190 line as well. I'd check there first.
 
A couple different guys I've seen on youtube with 210's had a similar issues, turned out that some of the inlet hoses were made too long and kinked in the engine compartment from the factory. Same idiots might be working the 190 line as well. I'd check there first.
BINGO.....bet that's the problem.
 
Back
Top