Bringing Back Boat Finish

[djtech2k]

I have read some threads here on boat finish but haven’t found what I am looking for.

My 2012 has some oxidation around the top edge of the boat, just above the bumper ring. The previous owner said that this happened to him each year after the winter and he would use a compound to buff it out and it went back to looking great. I have the snap on cover so this area is not covered.

Below the black bumper ring, the finish looks good and feels smooth.

So I want to get the top part back to shining and also take care of the whole boat to make sure it is in good shape and I don’t sacrifice any speed.

I bought the Star Brite Premium Cleaner Wax. Premium Cleaner Wax

I tried a few small spots by hand to see if it worked and it did improve but it didn’t shine like the lower part. So I borrowed a friends buffer and did a small spot this evening. The Star Brite people told me that I could use a buffer but not to work it off like a compound. He said to buff it on lightly and let sit to turn into a haze, and then rub off. Well I tried that but after about 2 seconds on the buffer it’s basically gone.

So I am looking for some tips on restoring or improving my bad areas and also taking good care of it all. What products do you guys use and how do you do it?

 

[mrcleanr6]

Using wax or even clear wax, your getting ahead of yourself. You need a rotary buffer. Not an orbital one. wool cutting pad for the buffer and some 3m marine gelcoat compound. At about 1800 rpm you need to work that gelocoat with compound. Compound is like liquid sandpaper. Your taking the dead oxidized laywr off tue gel getting back down to the good stuff. After this step get a foam polishing pad and some 3m marine polish at about 1400rpm do the same thing again. Once its polished and a perfect finish then its time for the wax

 

[Babin Farms]

check out these links. This product worked well for me and still looks good after almost a full season of the boat being in the weather

https://jetboaters.net/threads/so-turns-out-my-boat-is-a-different-color-than-i-thought-compound-reccomendations.25879/post-433368

 

[zipper]

If you are dealing with oxidized gelcoat, you will need more than that 1-step product. The buffer needs to have a variable speed. I use a rotary with a wool pad to cut oxidation and a DA (orbital) polisher with foam pads for polishng and waxing. I carry most of my supplies for this in a bushel basket.



I did wetsand my Orange topsides before I used an oxidation cutting/removal compound, then polish, wax.



Because after removing the graphics, the oxidation was obvious.



And after a weekend of wetsanding and polishing the difference is amazing.



You can see the reflection of everything on the ground in the barn.

I started useing Marine 31 products four years ago and added a rotary buffer a year later.
Used the tools/products on the Yamaha and the Beneteau.

Porter Cable 7424xp Marine 31 Boat Oxidation Removal Kit

Marine 31 Stern to Bow Waterless Wash & Wax with Carnauba provides an environmentally-friendly way of washing and waxing your boat.

www.marine31.com

 

[djtech2k]

If you are dealing with oxidized gelcoat, you will need more than that 1-step product. The buffer needs to have a variable speed. I use a rotary with a wool pad to cut oxidation and a DA (orbital) polisher with foam pads for polishng and waxing. I carry most of my supplies for this in a bushel basket.

View attachment 133112

I did wetsand my Orange topsides before I used an oxidation cutting/removal compound, then polish, wax.

View attachment 133113

Because after removing the graphics, the oxidation was obvious.

View attachment 133114

And after a weekend of wetsanding and polishing the difference is amazing.

View attachment 133115

You can see the reflection of everything on the ground in the barn.

I started useing Marine 31 products four years ago and added a rotary buffer a year later.
Used the tools/products on the Yamaha and the Beneteau.

View attachment 133116

Porter Cable 7424xp Marine 31 Boat Oxidation Removal Kit

Marine 31 Stern to Bow Waterless Wash & Wax with Carnauba provides an environmentally-friendly way of washing and waxing your boat.

www.marine31.com

Thanks for all the tips. Out of curiosity, what kind of cover is that? I have the one with the snaps so it leaves a lot of the top exposed.

 

[zipper]

Thanks for all the tips. Out of curiosity, what kind of cover is that? I have the one with the snaps so it leaves a lot of the top exposed.

That is the original factory towing/mooring cover with ratchet straps. We also have snap on bow and cockpit covers.

 

[djtech2k]

Do you guys think it would be possible to make a big difference on this without doing 3+ steps? I mean I got the cleaner wax in medium and it helps but doesn’t take it all off. Could I try a compound or polish and see how it goes? I’d like to be able to do it in no more than 2 steps if possible. Only the top edge looks to have oxidation thank goodness. The hull looks/feels pretty smooth and deep color.

I am sure the oxidation is from the areas that my snap on covers do not cover. I do not think I have one of those mooring covers.

 

[Babin Farms]

To do it properly you will have to do 3 steps. It doesn’t sound like you need to wet sand it but still need to use a rubbing compound and go through the entire process. If I had the available time I could’ve gotten mine done in probably one FULL 12-14hr day.

 

[djtech2k]

I am thinking about buying the Meguiars M67 compound and trying that. If I did that and it makes it look better, should I use the Star Brite afterwards for wax or should I get a pure wax and use that instead?

The rest of the boat looks good. Is the StarBrite ok to use on the rest of the boat that does not have oxidation or should I use something different.

I just don’t want to mess up the gel coat or make it look worse so I want to be sure I am doing the right thing.

 

[djtech2k]

I bought the Meguiars M67 compound and used a little bit just before dark this evening. I think it really improved but I will look closer in the light tomorrow and post back the result.

 

[djtech2k]

I went to look at the results today after I spent about 10mins of buffing the compound on part of 1 side. It looks a LOT better. All of the haze is gone in the area that I touched. Since it is only on the top edge of the boat, the bottom part of the boat is not clean do I cannot say how close it looks to the sides of the boat, which have great color depth and is very shiny. At a glance, it may not be as shiny, but that was with 1 quick buff.

I am sure that it will only get better with more work on it and then using the cleaner wax on top of that. I am using a fuzzy buffer pad which i assume is wool or wool-like. Not sure of when to use the fuzzy pads vs the foam pads.

 

[zipper]

Wool pad for cutting/removing oxidation. Foam for polish compound and wax.

 

[djtech2k]

I just went out and did a quick buff around the oxidized area. It looks a lot better but it does not quite have the same glossy look as the lower part of the boat. Maybe I need to do it more than just once or maybe I need to put wax on it. Not really sure yet but its going in the right direction.

 

[VitaminSea]

I found this video helpful. He mentions that with the “67” you need to be sure you are using a lower speed, I believe around 1800rpms to ensure you are not drying out the compound, and it should finish like a polish.

I can’t really speak to the results, as I did my boat in early spring, but feel as if I rushed the job. In other words, it looked better, but I could have removed some of the light swirls if I went slower, or went the route of a more aggressive compound followed by a polish.

All part of the learning process.

 

[mrcleanr6]

do not use the wax to bring back your shine. when the wax wears off you will have a hazy dull surface. you need to use compound and polish to get the gelcoat to as perfect gloss as possible then use the wax.

 

[djtech2k]

I just used the meguiars M67 and it does have a shine on it. I don’t think it’s as much of a gloss as the lower part of the boat but it’s not dull at all any more.

This M67 is called a one step compound but what else would I use for the polish part? I don’t think it is far away. I may try another coat and see how it looks.

 

[Jane305]

I use 3M Restorer and Wax. I liked this product a lot because it is a 2-in-1 product, It is both a rubbing compound and wax. It is very convenient to use, and it saves up time and effort because I only used one product to do two steps in the restoration process. I found the product to be effective in removing oxidation, rust, stains, scratches, spots, and other imperfections.

 

[djtech2k]

As I was trying to get my boat ready to park for winter, I noticed some parts of the boat with this brownish color. I had seen a few small spots but figured it was dust it some dirty areas to wash. I was washing the boat with a long handled soapy brush and it does not come off. I rubbed my hand over it and it feels pretty smooth, as in not rough or bumpy.

Have you guys experienced this and how does it come off? Is it a buffing situation? I am running out of time so I may have to wait until spring to get the boat buffed and waxed. I was thinking of trying to do it myself but I’m not sure I want to take on the project of buffing/waxing the whole boat, especially the bottom.

 

[ChrisM]

I'm not a fan of using the large polishers, I find better control, and the ability to access the tight spots with a 3' polisher. The one I'm using now is from Harbor Freight, and an assortment of cutting to finishing foam pads from Amazon. I pull out the 7' variable if I'm doing the lower part of the hull.

3 in. Air Polisher Kit


https://www.amazon.com/Augshy-Polishing-Buffing-Adapter-Polisher/dp/B07CXKBYG4/ref=asc_df_B07CXKBYG4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12933198528432851655&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010687&hvtargid=pla-458247486635&psc=1