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Broken spark plug head removal help?

2Point-Oh!

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
38
Reaction score
9
Points
87
Location
Orlando & Palm Coast Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
I broke the spark plug clean off at the threads.
I am going to take the head off. Sure could use some pointers.
I searched on here for head removal. Maybe I’m using the wrong wording in my search.
Thank you !!
 

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To remove the head you will need to remove the engine. There are thread(s) on removing broken plugs without removing head. Search threads for tips on possible ways to accomplish that.
 
Yes, its possible without removing the head.
 
Your service manual contains the steps for removing the head. The airbox, exhaust manifolds, oil cooler, valve cover, both camshafts, related hoses and electrical connectors all have to be removed. You will be doing this in cramped, awkward, and low light conditions. If you are like me, dropping tools, bolts, small parts, etc. from time to time, you will spend time searching for them. You will also have to support the loose timing chain and lift the heavy head off the cylinder block. If the head gets turned upside down while you are removing it, you will be looking for the tiny spacers that are all different sizes and belong to specific valves. That is just some of the things you will need to do just to remove it.
Reinstalling it involves careful torquing, aligning new gaskets, on and on.
Before you even take out your tools, read
the manual thoroughly. It is extremely helpful.
 
What you really want to do is float it out to the middle of a lake and pull the plug...
 
Won't work. Our boats float. Will only get to the gunnels and then will stay there.

But it will kill off your engine good. Except for the intentional conduct, will make for a fine insurance claim.

Seriously, big job ahead either way, I think. I don't envy you. Do post your progress.
 
Your service manual contains the steps for removing the head. The airbox, exhaust manifolds, oil cooler, valve cover, both camshafts, related hoses and electrical connectors all have to be removed. You will be doing this in cramped, awkward, and low light conditions. If you are like me, dropping tools, bolts, small parts, etc. from time to time, you will spend time searching for them. You will also have to support the loose timing chain and lift the heavy head off the cylinder block. If the head gets turned upside down while you are removing it, you will be looking for the tiny spacers that are all different sizes and belong to specific valves. That is just some of the things you will need to do just to remove it.
Reinstalling it involves careful torquing, aligning new gaskets, on and on.
Before you even take out your tools, read
the manual thoroughly. It is extremely helpful.
Thank you!!
 
What you really want to do is float it out to the middle of a lake and pull the plug...
I’m not at that point yet!!
Believe it or not this boat has been reliable
I would like to know how this happen though. As far as how it got stuck that is!
 
I’m not at that point yet!!
Believe it or not this boat has been reliable
I would like to know how this happen though. As far as how it got stuck that is!

I know...but I am sure the last thing you want to do right now is pull the engine to get the head off..

My suggestion before pulling the engine is to spray some PB Blast down the hole and soak the plug. You might be able to free the plug and turn it out.

If that doesn’t work get a long drill bit and drill a shallow hole and then use an extractor.

If that doesn’t work...try running a reverse thread tap into the hole in the plug...then screw a bolt into it. Turn it out..

All things I would try before pulling the engine.

Take your time..
 
Well one more stuck plug ,listen once you get the piece out I have a way to insure you do not have any residual trash or debris left in the cylinder that could harm the rings etc. if you heat the broken plug part and remove it using the correct type of easy out you will be able to do it without removing the head. Just let me know when you get the broken plug piece out. I will pm you how to clean the cylinder out
 
I would use one of the existing plugs for practice. Take one out and try to break it to simulate the broken plug. Then use all the generous tip that you get here to set up your extractor.
 
Like the others have said above, People have successfully used an ez out before to do this with the engine still in place. I’m pretty sure that somebody did a write up on it either on this site or the other site. Good luck with the job.

to answer your question as to how/why it happens. When was the last time you changed the plugs, did you use anti seize on them when you installed them and how did you tighten them down (did you use a torque wrench or tighten to a certain degree?)
 
I have had great success using allen keys to remove sheared of bolts . Have not tried a spark plug but you could try dill out a 3 or 4mm spot not to deep get a long allen key gentle tap it in then twist if it strips out go the next size up using both american and metric you get a lot of attempts until one really bites in and allows it to be backed out. If one does lock in you may want to try to tighten first then lossen then tighten then loosen just go a little looser each time.


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I’m tuning in late to this thread but... I watched a tik-tok yesterday where a cleaver guy who was struggling with breaking drill bits in this same situation spot welded a nut onto the spark plug base and wrenched it out. He wasnt a skilled welder. Maybe search for the video ... just to think outside of the cube. It looked really legit and successful. I’ll se if I can find the link if you are interested.
 
@Along with @Cambo 's great tip or however you attempt it, make sure you do as @Brad460 suggested, "...spray some PB Blast down the hole and soak the plug."
 
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Use a left handed drill bit. Might unscrew itself while drilling. John
 
I’m tuning in late to this thread but... I watched a tik-tok yesterday where a cleaver guy who was struggling with breaking drill bits in this same situation spot welded a nut onto the spark plug base and wrenched it out. He wasnt a skilled welder. Maybe search for the video ... just to think outside of the cube. It looked really legit and successful. I’ll se if I can find the link if you are interested.

spot welding in a 4” deep hole is most likely impossible

if you use the pb blaster you would probably want to clean it out and degrease after it sits for a day . You will want the maxiI’m I’m holding power of the Allen key if it does grab keep us posted
 
If you take the valve cover off you can access a bit lower in the hole to get you closer to what you are dealing with
 
Sorry this happened. All of the really, really smart guys (sarcasm here) will tell you that pulling or changing your plugs every year isn't necessary. It's to lessen the chance of this happening. It could happen on an annual change but certainly would be rare.
 
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