Broken off Spark Plug into cylinder head

[Neutron]

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When offering help, going on the information given, and being chastised for responding based on that information, it's reasonable to expect blowback. That past help offered has been ignored only adds to the reaction. To cry poor, and then throw money at a suspected problem only serves to compound the responses. Trying to be helpful has been met with unkind responses as well, or outright ignoring of said help.

If it's raining here, one can only add the beer, which fuels the fire.

If someone gives me negative static after trying to help or ask a simple question to clarify something, then I am out and good luck. Going further only adds to the frustration.
My boat is fine......

 

[Fish for Dinner]

Ummm is that response directed towards me?

No this was directed towards Adrian. Somebody pissed in his coffee and he’s on here taking it out on me.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

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When offering help, going on the information given, and being chastised for responding based on that information, it's reasonable to expect blowback. That past help offered has been ignored only adds to the reaction. To cry poor, and then throw money at a suspected problem only serves to compound the responses. Trying to be helpful has been met with unkind responses as well, or outright ignoring of said help.

If it's raining here, one can only add the beer, which fuels the fire.

@Neutron my point exactly. That’s what I was taught. Don’t give advice if you can’t do it respectfully. If you can’t be helpful in a respectful manner, then stfu! Everyone on here has different levels of mechanics. Don’t assume everyone should automatically know something. I’m making assumptions that I believe it was cross threaded and that’s exactly what I believe. I could be wrong. I wouldn’t know until I remove the head and remove the broken spark plug. Adrian needs to chill out!

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Was that the silver (aluminum?) stuff? I've switched to copper, and a nickel, but admittedly don't have much time on the applications of them for much useful feedback, other than caliper slide pins seem to be less problematic with the nickel anti-seize when removing for inspection

*edited to add*
Just came to mind that I had an EBC brake setup that came with copper anti-seize, but I haven't needed to inspect anything yet

The stuff on mine was silver.

No this was directed towards Adrian. Somebody pissed in his coffee and he’s on here taking it out on me.

Nah I think you’re trolling us. You claim your boat isn’t running right but have hand tightened spark plugs and refuse to remedy a known issue. If you think I’m being mean, this must your first day on the internet lol

 

[Fish for Dinner]

The stuff on mine was silver.


Nah I think you’re trolling us. You claim your boat isn’t running right but have hand tightened spark plugs and refuse to remedy a known issue. If you think I’m being mean, this must your first day on the internet lol

I’ve already told you what the issue is. It seems you just want to argue with me in particular and quite frankly I don’t have time for it. No one is trolling anyone. I didn’t come here to waste anyone’s time, especially mine. I was just simply looking for a solution to my boat problems. I thought this was a place to get those answers without being ridiculed and disrespected.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I would use this style of EZ out to remove the broken plug If you are careful you can get the metal out using a long thin magnet. then put oil in the cylinder and use a suction device to suck out the oil and the small particles from the cylinder An air operated suction tube should work and then use a camera with the long flexible lens to inspect the cylinder for any left over particles. A lot less expensive and less trouble that pulling the head.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

I would use this style of EZ out to remove the broken plug View attachment 220494 If you are careful you can get the metal out using a long thin magnet. then put oil in the cylinder and use a suction device to suck out the oil and the small particles from the cylinder An air operated suction tube should work and then use a camera with the long flexible lens to inspect the cylinder for any left over particles. A lot less expensive and less trouble that pulling the head.

I wish it were that easy. My mechanic and I tried to get it out today and the easy out broke off into it as well. I’m thinking I don’t have a choice but to pull the head now. Unless you guys have another idea. I’m open to trying anything else before I pull this head.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

I would use this style of EZ out to remove the broken plug View attachment 220494 If you are careful you can get the metal out using a long thin magnet. then put oil in the cylinder and use a suction device to suck out the oil and the small particles from the cylinder An air operated suction tube should work and then use a camera with the long flexible lens to inspect the cylinder for any left over particles. A lot less expensive and less trouble that pulling the head.

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I do need to get a camera with a flexible lens though. I may try to drill through the broken easy out if I can before I resort to removing the head. I went ahead and ordered a cylinder gasket just in case.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

so the easy out is still stuck in the broken plug?? yes use a small drill bit on the side of the broken part so it drills the softer metal of the spark plug in a couple locations around the broken ez out to create some space to loosen the piece . Once you remove the ez out piece you can also try using a very good ez out and an impact driver

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

you can also try placing a weld just on the ez out so you can then place a nut on the weld and then weld the nut to the ez out so you can reverse it and it will come out while doing that you are also heating the broken plug and that may help to release the broken part of the plug from the head. it is a tight place to work in but it is an option, I have welded out many broken bolts etc over the many decades of working on things.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

so the easy out is still stuck in the broken plug?? yes use a small drill bit on the side of the broken part so it drills the softer metal of the spark plug in a couple locations around the broken ez out to create some space to loosen the piece . Once you remove the ez out piece you can also try using a very good ez out and an impact driver View attachment 220503

That’s a good idea. I’m gonna have to try that.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

you can also try placing a weld just on the ez out so you can then place a nut on the weld and then weld the nut to the ez out so you can reverse it and it will come out while doing that you are also heating the broken plug and that may help to release the broken part of the plug from the head. it is a tight place to work in but it is an option, I have welded out many broken bolts etc over the many decades of working on things.

Do you have a Weld on the pic of the easy out you just posted?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

NO I put a very strong hardened socket on the impact driver that fits the end of the easy out , once it gets loose you can then use a breaker bar in place of the impact driver leaving the easy out in place inside the broken plug.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

NO I put a very strong hardened socket on the impact driver that fits the end of the easy out , once it gets loose you can then use a breaker bar in place of the impact driver leaving the easy out in place inside the broken plug.

Gotcha. Thanks I’ll be trying today. Do you have a particular drill bit you use. I do have metal drill bits but are there different types for a certain type of metal?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

You need a good bit vey small and go easy I think if you drill 1 small hole and then tap a small pointed punch in at the side of the EZ out it will probably come loose you may have easer access if you remove the valve cover , just remember you can not drill the EZ out just the plug body next to it to reduce the pressure on it so it is out of the way.

 

[Fish for Dinner]

Gotcha! Thanks

 

[scokill]

my manual gives a tightening torque value, how do you know you tighten it correctly if you don't use a torque wrench ?




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I use a torque wrench and anti seize. I bought one that has in/lbs. I do account for the antiseize and have backed down from I believe 108 in/lb to 95. Changed 100 or more with no problems.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I use a torque wrench and anti seize. I bought one that has in/lbs. I do account for the antiseize and have backed down from I believe 108 in/lb to 95. Changed 100 or more with no problems.

This seems really low, IIRC it’s 18.5ft/lb.

 

[scokill]

This seems really low, IIRC it’s 18.5ft/lb.

So you think the torque for spark plugs 18.5 ft/lbs? Maybe that's why it broke off. The service manual for my AR230 states 9.4 ft/lbs, which converted is 112.8 in/lbs. I back off of that to account for anti seize.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

So you think the torque for spark plugs 18.5 ft/lbs? Maybe that's why it broke off. The service manual for my AR230 states 9.4 ft/lbs, which converted is 112.8 in/lbs. I back off of that to account for anti seize.

spec is 18.4 on the 1.8s. Crazy to me it’s half on the MR1