Ceramic or Graphene Coatings - Experiences?

[dreinertuwm]

Has anyone applied ceramic or graphene coatings to their boat and have any feedback on it as compared to wax?

I‘ve searched these forums, Google, and YouTube With the biggest thing seemingly auto coatings won’t work/last the same on gel coat.

Starke seems to be the most popular ceramic brand for boats and many in these forums use Rejex wax and Hot Sauce to maintain but I’m not seeing much feedback here around the newer ceramic coatings.


Thanks,

Dallas

 

[zipper]

@suke

 

[Sean R]

I applied Griots ceramic in the fall the boats hasn't seen the water yet. Was a little easier to apply than wax, boat looks great but not any better than a wax job. I'll see how it hold up this season. I just wax in the fall but use a mist and wipe from time to time during the season.

 

[lazergeek]

I did Hydrosilex Marine myself at someones recommendation when the boat was brand new before I even put it in the water. The boat is 15 months old now and Im happy with it. It was Inexpensive by Ceramic standards and easy to apply and easy to reapply as needed.

 

[suke]

@suke

Depends on what you're looking for. I've applied a ceramic coating to my boat, both a marine grade and an auto grade coating. Both have done well. Gelcoat is significantly more porous than your auto clear coat. Only reason many say not to use an auto version is that their chemical make up is generally better suited for marine environments. For me, since I'm fairly OCD, I don't care as much about longevity as I do about some of the best protection on the market. It's nearly guaranteed by the end of the season I'll polish it off and put a new one on to get rid of any micro marring, bumper marks, or any water spots that may have happened over the course of a season.

I will say prep is key. Professional prep is not cheap. Ceramic coatings now a days are so user friendly just about anyone can apply it. Not every can prep the gelcoat properly. Expensive equipment, skillset for handling various polisher(s), knowledge of paint/gelcoat, etc. If you're just looking for good protection that is very budget friendly (i.e. not looking to spend $1500+ on a pro job) I recommend 303 graphene.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Graphene-Nano-Spray-Coating/dp/B08K3N5QP5

I've heard nothing but rave reviews from everyone that has used it. From seasoned pro detailers to hobby enthusiasts. Also hotsauce water spot remover is something I have in my personal arsenal. I've used it on several ceramic coated vehicles from boats to cars. There's threads around here from my work on my boat.

 

[Bruins63]

I was looking into the same thing. Any thoughts on chemical guys hydroslick ceramic coating? I was going to give it a try this season.

 

[suke]

I was looking into the same thing. Any thoughts on chemical guys hydroslick ceramic coating? I was going to give it a try this season.

I'm not personally a fan of anything Chemical guys. As a whole their stuff isn't bad, just isn't great. It's essentially one notch above armor all. If you're looking for a decent consumer line Griots is really good. If you're looking for a marine coating available to the public shinesupply marine ceramic is amazing. If you're looking for a really good consumer ceramic to use on clear coat (I've also used this on my boat) is CarPro Cquartz SiC (silica carbide.....chemical mix to help with water spotting). On my personal vehicles I have cquartz UK V3 topped with SiC. That's what I have on my boat right now too.

 

[dreinertuwm]

@suke - Have you heard any feedback or have a gut feel on the new Gyeon EVO line? I have a new bottle of UK V3 but I never put it on my truck based on the reports of quick flash time and difficulty of removal for the less experienced and instead went with Glassparency graphene coating did go and has been well on the truck.

I’ll likely just order the CQ SiC and put it over the V3 as you suggested but the new EVO moh’s & skin seem to be easier to apply and cure now as well.

 

[suke]

@suke - Have you heard any feedback or have a gut feel on the new Gyeon EVO line? I have a new bottle of UK V3 but I never put it on my truck based on the reports of quick flash time and difficulty of removal for the less experienced and instead went with Glassparency graphene coating did go and has been well on the truck.

I’ll likely just order the CQ SiC and put it over the V3 as you suggested but the new EVO moh’s & skin seem to be easier to apply and cure now as well.

Gyeon won't be much different than CQ. UK V3 gets a bad rep, but I've never had flash time issues. Just can't go do a whole side of the car and come back and start wiping. With SiC you just about can get away with that. I don't hate Gyeon just never been a real big fan of their stuff. Their branded towels I love. The gyeon bald wipe used to be my go to for the cleaner prep wipe. Their chemical line always seems to be a copycat.

 

[Matts18]

Are you guys coating the running surface of the hull or stopping around the water line?

 

[suke]

Are you guys coating the running surface of the hull or stopping around the water line?

I go all the way down and everything I can reach. Only thing I don't do is the planing surface of the boat. So the very bottom. Everything that's even remotely visible I get, even around the pumps.

 

[Emptytemples]

I go all the way down and everything I can reach. Only thing I don't do is the planing surface of the boat. So the very bottom. Everything that's even remotely visible I get, even around the pumps.

Suke is there a reason you don't get all the way on the bottom of the hull besides it being a PITA? I would want to so it doesn't get growth, discoloration, etc. Curious on your thoughts.

 

[suke]

Suke is there a reason you don't get all the way on the bottom of the hull besides it being a PITA? I would want to so it doesn't get growth, discoloration, etc. Curious on your thoughts.

if you leave it in the water I'd want bottom paint or something stronger than a ceramic coating. And yes I don't do the bottom cause it's hard to get to. I have a creeper so I could technically slide around under there, but it's not worth it to me.

 

[Emptytemples]

Yes agree with that. Mine is usually on a lift. If it stays in the water it's in a lake for a couple days max. Getting underneath is a pain in my 190. Arms definitely feel it after doing the hull with cullinite.

 

[VitaminSea]

@suke Just curious as to your take on Rejex. Asking as you seem to be well versed in this arena, and I still have ~half a bottle to use.

Appreciated your perspective regarding CG and recommending Griots over it, as I am familiar with the CG product, but never tried Griots. Now, I know what to try next.

 

[Bluewater272]

So, this is not a 'real' ceramic coating, but I've found it to be a very good product if you're not interested in spending a day on it. Easy on, easy off, lasts for months on my boat that's lifted over salt water. I've used rejex before, and honestly couldn't tell a difference. I just spray the hull down with saltaway and rinse after an outing, and the boat stayed sharp looking.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYPS3PS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[suke]

@suke Just curious as to your take on Rejex. Asking as you seem to be well versed in this arena, and I still have ~half a bottle to use.

Appreciated your perspective regarding CG and recommending Griots over it, as I am familiar with the CG product, but never tried Griots. Now, I know what to try next.

I've never personally used rejex but it's a polymer sealant. It should do just fine. Likely won't last as long as ceramics, but that's probably totally fine for most people to apply a couple times a season.

 

[Weeb]

@suke Just curious as to your take on Rejex. Asking as you seem to be well versed in this arena, and I still have ~half a bottle to use.

Appreciated your perspective regarding CG and recommending Griots over it, as I am familiar with the CG product, but never tried Griots. Now, I know what to try next.

I use rejex on my vehicles and boat and it does a good job easily.

 

[VitaminSea]

I've never personally used rejex but it's a polymer sealant. It should do just fine. Likely won't last as long as ceramics, but that's probably totally fine for most people to apply a couple times a season.

appreciate the context that it’s a polymer.

Seems to hold up for the season in my use, and I agree with @Weeb, rather easy to apply.

 

[Carolina]

Love this topic! I think graphene is more of a “hot” and “trendy” thing as there would be no way to string together graphene particles in such a way to make them any stronger or last longer than your standard cermamic coating. As stated before prep is key. The photos below were a wash, clay bar, rubbing compound cut, glaze polish and finally ceramic coating. Overall, about ten hours spread over two days. In professional applications, most of what you’re paying for will be the time involved in prep. In a marine setting, you will not see the multiple years of protection like you would with automotive but you will definitely get a full season out of a ceramic coat with a little maintenance.