Changing my oil today

[MattFX4]

Ok I feel like there is something I don't know. I use a small cheap electric extractor just like the link below. It takes a few mintues but it works. Why is everyone else using hand pumps?

XtremepowerUS 12v Fluid Oil Diesel Extractor + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AOAFP9C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_tl.2ybEM14R60

My neighbor had this one or I would buy electric. Heading to lake now to drop her in. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning

 

[FloJet]

Ok I feel like there is something I don't know. I use a small cheap electric extractor just like the link below. It takes a few mintues but it works. Why is everyone else using hand pumps?

XtremepowerUS 12v Fluid Oil Diesel Extractor + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AOAFP9C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_tl.2ybEM14R60

Cause electric pumps are made for the rich.

 

[FloJet]

Never mind. That pump cost less them my hand pump lol. Hmm well then, I wonder which is more efficient??

 

[Matt Phillips]

Most of the hand-pump ones create a vacuum in the pump and pull the oil out that way. Give it 10-15 pumps with warm oil and that's about all it takes. For me that's easier than fussing with an electrical cord and such...especially since I change my oil with the boat in the water.

 

[Mainah]

Never mind. That pump cost less them my hand pump lol. Hmm well then, I wonder which is more efficient??

My guess is that on a human effort side the electric one is more efficient and you won't have to tranfer the oil into another container because it is already there. I like used one gallon milk jugs.

I think the better question is which is most effective?

 

[Mainah]

My electric pump is 12v so just clamp on the battery and good to go. I am wondering if some have found the electric does not work well.

 

[jcyamaharider]

My pump doesn't prime well so the hand pump to me will be more effective.

 

[2nazt]

I don't mind the 10ish or less pumps my manual takes to drain. I also feel more comfortable when I pulled water/fuel from fuel compartment when I had my leak. I wouldn't of done that with the electric.

 

[Jaime]

I hooked hose to flush out port and ran 5 minutes. No overheat warnings for me. I think you could do it without the water too. 5 minutes isn't long.

If you going to run for more than 30 seconds, you should plug the water!!!

 

[T. Turner]

If you going to run for more than 30 seconds, you should plug the water!!!

I disagree, as long as the motor is in idle then you could run the motor for several minutes without any overheating. Now I do understand "better safe than sorry" but I beliece 30 seconds is a pretty conservative.

 

[Ronnie]

Never mind. That pump cost less them my hand pump lol. Hmm well then, I wonder which is more efficient??

I did a comparison once. The electric did it in 1/5 the time the non electric did. Here is a link to my write up in yjb.

http://yamahajetboaters.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36282&hilit=Oil+pump

A few years back my wife got me this, a bigger electric. It nice because it holds more oil but it is a lot slower than my previous electric.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--flat-tank-oil-changer--14557417

 

[FloJet]

Well it took me about 30 or so mins to get all the oil out by hand pump so if electric can do in half the time, I think that's a winner. Plus like @Mainah showed, it's only $14 or so for the pump. That might be a winner. I can use the pump for my hand pump container I thinking.

 

[Britboater]

Everybody's oil changing, here comes summer…………..

 

[KXCam22]

At idle you can run for hours on the garden hose, if you want. Usually 15-20 min gets the oil warm enough. The exact boat level is not that important, in fact tipping up the bow will allow you to extract more oil than at level. What IS important is to use the dipstick to verify (and record) the exact oil level before you extract. That way you can re-fill the exact amount to the same dip stick level. Then on the water you can double check to make sure the oil level is correct. Mine is usually about 1/4 to 1/2 mark above full when floating. Once you have a known good oil level it is easy to always re-fill back to the same level, when changing oil. With my bow tipped up (in my driveway) I can extract about 3.5L per motor (230). The bitch is that my Pella only holds 6L so I have to make a pit stop between engines. Cam.

 

[Seadeals]

I agree with @KXCam22 on regularly being aware of your dipstick readings (after running). Once you have done a lot of oil changes, tolerance stack in the actual quantities replaced can add up and put you low or perhaps high. Also, what if shop over services and you pull more than you really should the next time (since we all keep going until it sucks no more)? You would just be repeating the error over and over blindly putting back what you extracted. On my MR1s I always keep the warm reading at least in the middle between L and H and definitely not ever a hair over H. Leaks are also a reason not to just replace the same quantity. Start low, end low.

 

[tdonoughue]

I have the same little spherical 6L vacuum job as many folks. It has never taken me 30 min to suck oil out of the engine. Heck, I don't think the whole process takes me 30 min (for both engines). 5-10 min tops per engine. But, in truth, I never really timed it.

Rather than bothering to level things, I usually take the boat out, run around a little bit, anchor up and change the oil. The water keeps the boat level. Running around and having fun for a few minutes heats things up. Works very well. Of course, you do have to have all your parts and things before you set out...