Considering winterizing my boat with few extra qts of oil in each motor ...

[Ronnie]

I’ve fogged my engines a few times before but nto anymore, it simply doesn’t get cold enough where I live to justify the effort and expense. Now I just fill the fuel tank, stabilize the fuel and put damp rid containers throughout the boat to winterize it. The fuel stabiles will cost the cylinder walls if it’s added before the the last use. I also put the anti pooling poles in under the cover, it doesn’t snow here but it does rain occasionally. If I was concerned about surface corrosion I would coat the surfaces of the engines with wd40 or crc, but I’m not so I don’t. I haven’t experienced any post winter winterization problems ever but fogging had me replacing the spark plugs every year instead of every two as a normally Do now. I almost forgot, my batteries are on an onboard charger maintainer whenever the boat and waverunners are not in use and stored on the side of my house, so five to seven months straight during the off season.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I was considering just using my on board charger to maintain this winter all 4 batteries, just wasn't sure if I felt it was the safe thing to do. I would prefer to do that, rather than pull all four and buy another charger and put them in the garage..

 

[Dumbassbass]

I was considering just using my on board charger to maintain this winter all 4 batteries, just wasn't sure if I felt it was the safe thing to do. I would prefer to do that, rather than pull all four and buy another charger and put them in the garage..

My boat is in the water all season chargers plugged in. Garage all winter chargers plugged in. The good/smart chargers will be in maintenance mode for the majority of the time which is by design also the best for battery longevity.
My garage is kept at 50° in the winter though so research may be a good idea for your LiFePO4's as some of the BMS boards have a low and high temperature cut off.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

This subject comes to light all the time I have thousands of hours on Yamaha engines as everyone probably knows I follow a routine before the engine ever sees the water, First is the never seize , just a slight amount on the plugs, dielectric grease on the coil boots. silicon spray on the electrical connections, and then white lithium grease on every part of the engine I can get to, and of course gear lube in the intermediate bearing housing added to the grease that is already there. I add a zinc anode to the pump and to the ride plate. But I only run in salt water with red tide because I live in Florida the slimy water full of dead stinking fish state. I also mod out my intake grasses to deal with weeds and dead fish. But that is just some of the things I do to a new engine . Yamaha has a history of plugs breaking off when being removed .

 

[RobbieO]

I was considering just using my on board charger to maintain this winter all 4 batteries, just wasn't sure if I felt it was the safe thing to do. I would prefer to do that, rather than pull all four and buy another charger and put them in the garage..

You may have seen my post where I made my on board charger portable. It's worked out great. My boat is stored indoors and there is no electrical
outlet, so I just take the batteries out and store them in my garage when I won't be using the boat for a month or so. I only have 2, but they are easily removed in 5 minutes. I would never leave batteries stored on my boat for extended periods, especially when stored inside, or when covered.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@RobbieO I could take my charger out rather easily, just un run the lines and some zip ties and 4 screws. Probably the best way to go.

 

[Tgen2013]

Your own ranting does you dis service. You freely admit the additional anti-S or any lubricant will yield (net), by your estimates plus 50 %. With aluminum that's quite a bit.

Consider we were talking specifically about the 18 ft lbs figure. Your the one who needs to lighten up your replies. But thanks for the specific figures on what I was trying to relate.
A loquacious reply does not ensure its validity. Even if it sounds nice
Spare me Richard.

 

[2kwik4u]

Your own ranting does you dis service. You freely admit the additional anti-S or any lubricant will yield (net), by your estimates plus 50 %. With aluminum that's quite a bit.

Consider we were talking specifically about the 18 ft lbs figure. Your the one who needs to lighten up your replies. But thanks for the specific figures on what I was trying to relate.
A loquacious reply does not ensure its validity. Even if it sounds nice
Spare me Richard.

One more to add to the ignore list. Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[Evil Sports]

@HangOutdoors
I leave my 3 batteries in my boat, plug in for the winter and dont touch it till spring. Worked perfectly for the last 8 years. If you have power where you keep the boat thats your best and easiest move. You paid for that nice on board charger why not get the benefit of it.

 

[2kwik4u]

@HangOutdoors
I leave my 3 batteries in my boat, plug in for the winter and dont touch it till spring. Worked perfectly for the last 8 years. If you have power where you keep the boat thats your best and easiest move. You paid for that nice on board charger why not get the benefit of it.

I do the same thing except I only have one battery and one charger. Haven't unhooked the battery in a few years now. I have a pigtail wired into the terminals that my charger/tender connects to. Just stays plugged in all winter, no muss no fuss.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@HangOutdoors
I leave my 3 batteries in my boat, plug in for the winter and dont touch it till spring. Worked perfectly for the last 8 years. If you have power where you keep the boat thats your best and easiest move. You paid for that nice on board charger why not get the benefit of it.

I would have to run a power cord across the end of the drive over to the boat. So it will be buried under the snow and the kids running across it to go into the back yard. I dunno how good that is. It would only take me about 15-20 minutes to unhook the NOCO gen 5 Pro 4 bank and remove it from the boat and set it on my workbench in the garage and move the batteries out.

I was planning on running a conduit under the concrete when I redo the driveway next year so I can put an all weather electrical box out there on the other side.

 

[Evil Sports]

Bro, find a way to set up power to the boat that you can live with and just set it and forget it. Im doing everything I can to avoid removing batteries at all cost

 

[Matt Phillips]

I store from late September to early June. I change the oil, and run fuel stabilizer in every tank. I strengthen the fuel stabilizer mix just a bit before winter. Like Ronnie, out here in CA, I change the plugs every two years (as that gets me about 70 hrs on them) and use some antisieze on the threads.

I remove the batteries and put them on a battery tender in the garage for the winter. One tip though as you remove the battery wires -- sometimes there's 4-5 per battery -- group each terminals cables together with a loose-fitting zip tie, and let them sit on the floor near where their respective post is. That way when you come back 8-9 months later, you know exactly which cables (and how many) need to go on each post.

 

[RobbieO]

Totally agree with your methods. I used my label maker to make tags for the cables. (starter/house) I also use the zip ties. I added bus bars so now I have less cables. I also routed the cables and secured them so they can only reach their correct location.

 

[Dennis P]

I keep a photo on file, bring it up on my phone and done!