Docking recommendation: fixed dock + massive wake boarders wakes = nervous wreck!

[zipper]

The port aft of your boat must have taken a beating last year. The new plan will be good for the boat once tied off, but ... and I can’t stress this enough .... it will be difficult to get your boat into the slip that way with any moderate wind or wakes coming off the water towards land. Even with fins this is challenging. The trick here is patience and actively working the throttles and wheel. Padding the pole and using it to arrest the movement towards land will be a big help in this regard.

Two more tips. Given a fixed dock and rough water leave just a bit of slack in the lines. Last tip to ensure ropes don’t come lose is to make sure you are tying to the cleats correctly. It only takes one half wrap and three tail under loops for each line to tie off a yacht indefinitely and that is no different for our boats.

Definetly use spring lines and crossing stern lines, they were missing in last years setup. As far as docking in windy conditions or in a current, we have found these very useful. We use them on our bigger Beneteau and they take the stress out of docking. Very easy to set up on a spring line and once around a cleat you use the line and stearing/reverse engine power to your advantage, to glide right in. https://jetboaters.net/threads/docking-stick-boat-hook-adapters.19009/ They work great for us, removes anxiety at docking. We use 2. Up here there are few pilings to tie to at slips, so in lew of a piling, you put a line on the port side midship cleat and run aft to cleat at pos. 6 on dock will keep the bow from drifting into the dock. Tied up correctly, she should sit in the slip without the fenders rubbing on the dock. This may put the boat out where it is uncomfortable to board, but you can shorten a line while boarding.

 

[the MfM]

We have a similar problem at our place.

Solution was to keep the boat on a mooring when we aren’t around. The boat doesn’t get beat up the same way as when it’s tied to the dock. And the jackasses stay further away from the dock.

Even if you don’t want to keep your boat on a mooring I’d suggest getting the association together and setting one as far out as legally allowed. Keep an old dinghy or kayak on the mooring. Most people are smart enough to avoid surfing/skiing/tubing between a mooring and dock.

 

[MidnightRider]

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Thank you for your time and we are looking forward to hear back from you!

How is this helpful?? I appreciate the all the vendors on this forum that only jump in when they can be helpful and contribute helpful advice/information to a thread topic and DON'T just throw commercials into a thread. IMO this is not only unhelpful but annoying.

 

[zipper]

How is this helpful?? I appreciate the all the vendors on this forum that only jump in when they can be helpful and contribute helpful advice/information to a thread topic and DON'T just throw commercials into a thread. IMO this is not only unhelpful but annoying.

Agree...Looks like the same post on a lot of threads this AM. I don't know all the rules about advertising, but @Administrative will.

 

[Bruce]

I removed T Dock Sales Team and the account’s posts. Had the account joined and posted in relevant or new threads it would have been considered a vendor.

The account had an IP address in Serbia and posted in irrelevant threads. The company appears to be based on Germany. This behavior is consistent with accounts that have been classified as SPAM and removed in the past.

Thank you for the reports.

 

[buckbuck]

Thank you, Bruce

 

[jdkaeser]

I agree you definitely want dock #4! The next thing I’d invest in is big fenders. I prefer Taylor made with the optional covers to prevent rubbing. Look at the ones you think are the right size then get the next size up. Second thing is get some fender mounts. The Yamaha’s cleats are about the worst place to mount fenders the way the bow curves in and stern one is so low. I use PhendePro mounts and added them in where the windshield glass ends fore and aft on both sides. Lastly, long dock lines are what you want so you don’t rip cleats out. I would run them in an X pattern, bow to the furthest cleat on the dock in the rear, stern to furthest cleat towards the water. They can be tight and it still allows the boat to rise and fall without putting undo stress on the cleats. Any of the guys who dock in the ocean with tides will tell you long lines keep you from hanging your boat! As an added good measure I would throw a loop around the pole you speak of real loose and tie to the opposing bow cleat. If the above setup fails, which I doubt it would, at least that would keep it from drifting away.

 

[Robconn]

I'm stuck on, "My lakehouse"!!! That's interesting that the cleats would get pulled out.

I have pulled up to a public dock plenty of times only to find a dock cleats with a lot of play. Either fasteners On the verge of failure, wood rot, metal fatigue, and overall poor maintenance. I’m sure just add boat traffic above wake speed to accelerate dock failures and consequential boat damage. I have looked at some lake houses for sale in my area by boat only to find the dock in state of disrepair.

 

[Robconn]

I installed what my wife calls baby bumpers for the dock. Dock fenders. And they add protection on those windy days, strong currents or chop. Your slip neighbors may thank you to. The cruiser next to my boat left marks on my corner bumper as it must have scraped along the dock. The cost is comparable to having a gel coat repair.

 

[Robconn]

Hull Hugr Dock Bumper, Corner 12" x 6" x 4" (HHB-C2W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SE6YZO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5zEEFbFY8B47Y