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Engine Hatch Foam Replacement

Trevor Shipman

Jetboaters Captain
Messages
818
Reaction score
940
Points
227
Location
Charlotte, NC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2006
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
21
I know, I know... there have been a million posts about this and I’ve read through all of them. My intent on this is to see if there is a clear winner?

For those of you that have done this project and have gotten GREAT results, do you mind posting the product you used?

I have a 06 AR210 (still cannot believe my boat is 13 years old!) the foam is flacking off, time to replace. Looking for the best combo of price, replacement, and sound deadning possible.

Thanks!
 
Watching
 
Watching as well.
 
I have been very happy two layers of something like this

Noico Green 170 mil 36 sqft Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYLM47D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4XRNCb3ZD5DV7

The two layers combined add up to something similar to @Beachbummer ’s product.

I removed the hood and used paint scrapers and stiff scrubbing brushes to remove the old foam.
 
I also can't comment on success yet, but I also did this project a few months ago. I'm in Canada and we're still waiting on lakes to thaw out. Should be late April maybe May before I can test it out. But I wrote a very thorough post on this with noise measurements. I know you looked around, but in case you didn't see mine, since it's on the "dark side" of the forum (aka Scarab), go here and scroll to post #34 (third from the bottom at this time). https://jetboaters.net/threads/scarab-165-mods.17479/page-2#post-359461
 
I bought the sound deadening kit from JBP and hope to install in the next few weeks.
I don't have any fancy instruments but am taking decibel readings via an app on my phone. It will only be good for comparing differences and can't be deemed as super accurate but it should read the difference between before and after.
Gotta rip out my old stuff first though which is mostly cheap stuff found at construction stores.
 
I removed the old foam, added a layer of Fatmat and then added back new foam. The soft black pipe insulation also seems to be the best seal. I bought he garage door seal also suggested; but don’t think it fits the contours well like on the 23’.
Fatmat:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU7L0U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Foam:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFJGFKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7B837376-418D-47A8-9EC4-051B15E4D172.jpeg
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BC6190DC-73C4-4841-BBD2-BBEBC80D8FEC.jpeg
I am happy for the money spent, mostly because it looks new again. The Fatmat step might have helped some; but I believe noise reduction requires addressing the side compartments, which I have never done. I also put some insulation on the fuel tank hatch. I shopped local at the Lowes since I only bought enough Fatmat for the hatch. Nothing amazing there either. I would have rather done that in Fatmat too; but was antsy to put it back together.
6387164F-96A0-4D0B-BFA4-A7D543AEEA3F.jpeg
6CFBA123-3128-4BA9-971C-449F77820AD0.jpeg
E468792D-5305-477C-83BA-3615B6BE6B15.jpeg
 
Looks great Seadeals. Interested if you think seat of the pants measurement is better than before. I will probably be doing this next year. Doing the piping type gasket this year for sure! I think I am already working on blowing my yearly budget of boat toys and not even in the water yet, but slacked off last year and just enjoyed it minus regular maintenance type stuff...
 
It definitely isn’t any worse; but trying for dB reduction in this model is a unicorn hunt unless you add what i consider unreasonable weight (or volume) of various materials. As for your budget...unicorns poop on boat budgets. At least it’s pretty poop. Sorry for all the unicorn references... and poop.
 
Guys keep in mind the more the merrier except at the rim it has to be kept low or you will pop the hinges.

 
I put kilmat on mine and it isn't any louder than the stock stuff. Isn't any quieter either, but mine was also flaking off. 90693
 
cool thanks for the info. I am assuming everyone stared with the 1/2" tall vs 3/8" tall foam pipe seal?
 
Just wanted to revive an older thread and see if anyone could chime in on their product/installation and how it’s holding up 1 year later...

I am trying to figure out what route to go on my 2012...
 
Just wanted to revive an older thread and see if anyone could chime in on their product/installation and how it’s holding up 1 year later...

I am trying to figure out what route to go on my 2012...
Start with a good engine hatch seal, like the one @Seadeals used or other rubber/foam seal, can't go wrong with that! Big effect, relatively easy to do, and very inexpensive.

--
 
@swatski. First, thank you so much for all of your detailed posts. I've recently purchased an '07 AR230 and in the process of doing the sound proofing/deadening work. I've been addicted to your posts and everyone else who has tackled and posted their solutions/results. I've gone all the way back to 2015 to the most recent threads in effort to find the right combos (about 4 hours worth!). Here's where I'm at:

Engine hatch: no clear winner but consensus is some sort of sound deadening and sound absorption combo. I've purchased Acoustiblok Home Page - Acoustiblok Website for the base layer and will add some sort of foam layer on top of that. Either Killmat or the foam used above by @Seadeals Amazon.com: uxcell Wave Studio Sound Acoustic Absorbing Heatproof Foam Deadener 19.7"x197" 27sqft: Automotive

Engine hatch seal: going with your recommendation of Duck brand garage door seal (2 packs)

Rear Storage compartments: I loved your idea of the ballasts filled with air, but that's a bit more of an investment for me (can I get those cheap?). Thinking I just go with a combination of the foam already mentioned above (glued to the walls) and then try to find a pile of foam to just stuff in the back. I hear you about blankets, life jackets, etc, but concerned about them getting wet/moldy. I wonder if these foam materials would work (they say water resistant). https://www.grainger.com/product/GR..._on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS

As for the lining the fuel tank door, ski locker, etc., it seems like none of that really adds that much more value. Someone needs to convince me insulating the fuel tank door is essential :).

Did I miss anything??? Thanks again for your diligence.
 
In your search did you stumble upon this thread? Specifically post #23 with the video?

I did not go all out when I redid mine, just focused on the engine hatch, and followed @Seadeals lead. I had some of the uxcell foam left over and applied to the fuel hatch. Unfortunately, I didn’t take “before and after” readings, but I don’t believe there is much in the way of a noticeable different - but at least I have a clean engine compartment (hoping the uxcell foam holds up over time).

Oh, I ran the foam from left to right or right to left, but in hindsight and looking at seadeals pics, it might be better to run it from front to back, as one of my seams is very close to a right angle on the hatch, causing me concern for long term holding of the adhesive in this specific spot. (Hope that makes sense).

After seeing the impact that @Riveramx had with his set-up, I’m tempted to remove my water boxes and do the blige and back of the engine bay wall as he did, might be a winter project...
 
I ordered this foam to replace my engine hatch foam which is not in good shape. 54 inches by 54 and 2 inches thick. I have plenty to replace all of the hatch area that is falling off, and I might apply to the side walls of the bilge area that is currently carpeted. This piece is huge, sold by McMaster-Carr.

In the pic, I propped it up against the door frame to give some perspective. I ordered w/o adhesive
20210630_121931.png20210630_122102.png
 
I ordered this foam to replace my engine hatch foam which is not in good shape. 54 inches by 54 and 2 inches thick. I have plenty to replace all of the hatch area that is falling off, and I might apply to the side walls of the bilge area that is currently carpeted. This piece is huge, sold by McMaster-Carr.

In the pic, I propped it up against the door frame to give some perspective. I ordered w/o adhesive
View attachment 155280View attachment 155281
Let us know how well they work.
 
As a check-in, the egg crate is holding up great and still looks new so far. The seal on the hatch has been heated up enough times along the top that the pipe insulation adhesive has smeared off onto the hull and it now occasionally falls down. It’s a cheap fix but I need to remove, clean the adhesive off the hull and replace with new.
 
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