Engine missing

[WilCo]

This may or may not be related to your present problem, but according to the 1.8 Timing Failure Thread, these engines suffer catastrophic failure when the timing chain breaks. Looks like they just replaced the 4/3 chain with another 4/3 chain and used the original pistons, valves, rods, bearings.

I'm having Yamaha corporate verify. They gave me a different part number than what is listed for my boat so I'm assuming that it is the new chain. I asked over and over again to ensure at the time, but never inspected it myself.

Part numbers I was given by corporate are: 6CR-W009B-18-94 (on the part diagram, I see 00 instead of 18) for the cylinder block. The head was 99999-04243-00 (which I haven't found on the 2013 parts diagram yet, but looks to be on the 2014 diagram).

 

[WilCo]

Corporate just confirmed it was the updated style timing chain so that should not be a contributing factor. You have to look at the top of the invoice where they said Corporate was sending the head and block (so those part numbers aren't on the invoice).

 

[Beachbummer]

If you want to rule out fuel you could add a spin on fuel filter/water separator before the fuel enters the engine. They are not expensive. I think the YDS while you are running might be very helpful too.

 

[buckbuck]

I think you should take a good look at the coil harnesses and other electrical harnesses. Put a bit of di-electric grease on the pins.

 

[tdonoughue]

What About water in the fuel tank? When scubaref had his issue it was very intermittent with rpms

Wouldn't the Sea Foam have taken care of that? Honest question there...

 

[WilCo]

Wouldn't the Sea Foam have taken care of that? Honest question there...

I figure I ran a little more than 7 gallons through the tank. I have no idea how quickly the additive works (to evaporate water and/or clean up fuel injectors). Maybe I need to run more fuel through, but I’m starting to lean towards electrical also. I think if it was fuel related, it would happen at more rpms than what I have seen it at.

 

[Scottintexas]

Wouldn't the Sea Foam have taken care of that? Honest question there...

Don't know but i think I'd want to at least pump some in a cup to see it before i start chasing electrical

 

[tdonoughue]

Fair point...

 

[tdonoughue]

Good to meet @WilCo today!

Set him up with a YDS cable. A couple of questions from looking at his engine:
1) On his diagnostic port, there was a terminator. Is this normal for his year and model? My 2012 diag ports don't have anything on them. Removing it and plugging in the cable provided a comm error... But his tach also has a diagnostic mode--do you need that for the YDS?
2) Looking at the engine, the connection behind the air filter was wet with oil. We pulled the air filter, and it appears that no oil got to the filter, but there was a fair bit in the port going into the engine. Oil level was dead on between the min and max (though the boat was not leveled--at least it is close). We dried off the oil and reinstalled the filter.

He is going to go over all of the electrical connections with some dielectric grease and then silicone spray. And hopefully get that funky YDS to work on a computer. Then we will see.

 

[WilCo]

@tdonoughue is what this community is all about. He drove 45 mintes to the lake to pick up his cable, spent 2 hours there troubleshooting the YDS, drove 45 minutes back, continued troubleshooting at home, drove to my house and spent at least an hour going over thing with me and left me the cable to continue working. Very much appreciated! Hats off to ya!

 

[tdonoughue]

Nah, just paying it forward. Lots of folks on here have done similar for me already! We'll get it--don't worry.

 

[WilCo]

All ignition coil couplers tested at 12 volts.
All Fuel injectors input voltage at 12 volts.
that’s what I’ve had time for so far.

added dielectric grease to all 8 fittings and sprayed with WD40 after reconnected.

TDS drivers are not found so have not been able to get it hooked up yet.

 

[WilCo]

So the remaining suggestions I haven’t gotten to yet are:
1) Check voltage while engine running-forgot before I put boat away
2) check for water in the fuel tank-just need some time to pull the floor and grab a sample
3) YDS analysis-pending driver resolution hopefully

Any other ideas?

 

[Scottintexas]

not sure what pulling the floor of a 190 entails,
if you can get the YDS working on can just unhook the fuel line at the engine and activate the pump via the YDS to get some out,

 

[WREKS]

There may be a computer port assignment (LP1) for the the YDS cable to connect. Do you have the software downloaded on a pc with the winxp operating system? I do not think windows10 will work. Maybe there is an upgrade.

 

[WilCo]

There may be a computer port assignment (LP1) for the the YDS cable to connect. Do you have the software downloaded on a pc with the winxp operating system? I do not think windows10 will work. Maybe there is an upgrade.

Windows 7 pc. I have the cd with the drivers, but win 7 doesn’t find them. It’s supposed to work on xp, 7 and vista I believe.

 

[WilCo]

not sure what pulling the floor of a 190 entails,
if you can get the YDS working on can just unhook the fuel line at the engine and activate the pump via the YDS to get some out,

Pretty straightforward I think, but haven’t done it yet. I see a siphon at autozone for $4 that might be simpler. Stick it down the filler hole until it bottoms out and then siphon is what I was thinking. Water should be heavier than gas so I think I would want to sample from the bottom of the tank. Is my logic good there?

 

[WREKS]

I think you have to click on the install drivers button more than once, and then go back and run the program. They should install. I believe that when it is connected, as soon as the engine starts, it reads from the ECU and creates a spreadsheet database that can be saved on the pc or storage device. Keep trying when you have the time!

 

[Scottintexas]

Let me first say I don't understand why a YDS unit is so hard to get working, every time it seems I have to try 5 different ways (and I always forget to write down the sequence) to get mine working, YDS is great but so many people have problems with it,

Pretty straightforward I think, but haven’t done it yet. I see a siphon at autozone for $4 that might be simpler. Stick it down the filler hole until it bottoms out and then siphon is what I was thinking. Water should be heavier than gas so I think I would want to sample from the bottom of the tank. Is my logic good there?

If you were stealing gas I'd say just stick it down the filler tube. Your trying to be somewhat diagnostic and wouldn't it really stink if you pulled a sample but it wasn't from the bottom and now your chasing electrical,

Water should settle at the bottom and as Scubaref found out, if you just look, the phase separation will give the appearance of a false bottom, with your boat sitting it may be better to pull the floor and sending unit just be sure you don't have debris and are getting a sample from the bottom.


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[WREKS]

Let me first say I don't understand why a YDS unit is so hard to get working, every time it seems I have to try 5 different ways (and I always forget to write down the sequence) to get mine working, YDS is great but so many people have problems with it,



If you were stealing gas I'd say just stick it down the filler tube. Your trying to be somewhat diagnostic and wouldn't it really stink if you pulled a sample but it wasn't from the bottom and now your chasing electrical,

Water should settle at the bottom and as Scubaref found out, if you just look, the phase separation will give the appearance of a false bottom, with your boat sitting it may be better to pull the floor and sending unit just be sure you don't have debris and are getting a sample from the bottom.


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It would be easy to get a sample with an oil extractor with a straight extension on it. Put the extension down to the bottom; blow out the air; and extract the sample.