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Entire engine bay full of water (With Pics)

UPDATE: Leak found

I filled the engine bay with enough water to submerge the drive shaft and the coupling and the intermediate bearing cover to see if those bearings were leaking.

Attached are pictures of the only place where water is coming out from.

It's a steady stream, the drain plug isn't leaking and neither is the scupper valve

It looks like the through hull steering cable seal that I made with marine 5200 three months ago when I bought the boat and replaced both steering cables (let the 3M 5200 sealent cure for 7 days). Maybe the nut and the sealant I used came loose I have attached a YouTube video that shows a better look of that leak.


If the intermediate bearing seal is not good where should I look for water leakage?
 

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What happened to the threaded nut is it buried under the 5200 . That is a nice leak it should be easy to fix if the 5200 comes off easily
 
Looks like you need to pull everything out and reseal. I will probably do both of them.
And don’t forget to change the scupper anyway
 
Pulling the pump and transom plate will let you examine this more closely, then clean and rebuild.

Probably need a new part for the through hull fitting/connector.

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@zipper I think had something that will break the bond of 5200...Debond?
 
Works well on all polyurethane based sealants and adhesives.

20190424_181644.jpg

Silicone will still need a single edged razor to remove.

20190506_151041.jpg

Debond reacts and turns it gummy and then easily cleaned up with a blade. 28YO Sikaflex being removed with Debond.
 
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@Cambo I believe the nut is buried under the sealant and since it is a very hard to reach area I think I did a poor job sealing it on both sides of the hull, I will remove the existing sealant with a razor and needle nose pliers, Then I am going to use West System G/Flex 650 Toughened epoxy. I used this stuff on the drain plug assembly repair and it seems to be top notch. G/Flex 650 Toughened Epoxy • Permanant, Waterproof - WEST SYSTEM

@Betik Upon closer inspection of the scupper it looks to be the attwood 66553-3 stainless steel scupper valve that must have been replaced by the previous owner. It looks in good shape, I will reseal it with the epoxy I have mentioned above.

@swatski I've never pulled the pumps out and I was waiting to do that in the winter when I change the impellers, Is it unwise for me to leave the pumps alone and seal the steering cable through hull connection then re-test for water leakage, If I leave the water in there overnight and there's no leaks I should be good right?

@the MfM @zipper Thanks for the suggestion, Ill see if I can find a store near me that sells that product.

Ill get to work on this tonight after work and post an update with pics after I reseal. Also what do you guys think about the West System epoxy I mentioned?
 
Any resin, even the best, highest quality epoxy, is only going to be as good as your prep. I don;t know honestly how well you can clean those areas without pulling the pump and the transom plate, but it is hard to see where does water come out of exactly in the vid.

I admire your diligence in following up on this, keeping us posted, and following up with all the info, I really hope this operation is going to be successful!

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@swatski Yeah I get what you're saying 100% I'm going to un-screw the steering cable from the jet unit head, Take off the sealant so that I can push the cable back into the boat, use a wine cork or something similar to plug the cable hole then test for water leakage, If I find the water leaking from the transom plate then Ill definitely pull the jet unit out. If its hopefully just the through hull cable seal then ill use a wire brush drill attachment and clean and prep it as best as possible from both sides of the hull.
I'll post an update later tonight
 
The pump is 5 bolts and a spring clip. Don't be intimidated by it's size...it's a pretty straightforward job if you do need to remove it. Best Of Luck!
 
if I were you I write off the boat for this season. Take the time to do it right and then enjoy a carefree summer next year
Can’t tell if serious?!?
 
I hope not.
 
actual kind of I am. @tahmad575 said that he plan to do impeller and some other work during the winter. If he is going to start pulling pumps etc he might as well get everything done while everything is open. From what I recall it has taken people a week to just get the impeller loose. Other have almost destroyed their garage benches etc....
Given he is in NJ I would think by labourday is over right ? I am mean it dies after that in Texas..... What I am trying to say in with so many words, is that he shouldn't rush to get back in the water.
 
I read the pump removal as a way to reach the nut to reseal, not impeller removal. That's not too bad.

The secret to loosening the impeller is Pb Blaster, Heat, and a LONG lever. There are great forces involved, so you need the right jig. I have a 4-5 foot PVC tube I use..It's a lot of torque, but that's what's needed. I busted a big old vise doing it, so I hear you the impeller is tight, but just getting the pump off should not be horrible, and itss 5 bolts and the reverse clip. Hope he makes it.

This was my impeller removal set up. The videos I found all cut the part where it came loose, so I recorded my own...
 
that was too easy. I am more worried that mine will be like scot where he had to use his boat to get leverage.
 
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