FSH 210 Sport Audio Upgrade

[orexismd]

It’s been a past year of Firsts since bringing home my first boat! Thank you for the numerous contributions this group has shared that have allowed for countless hours spent learning and absorbing information and being asked by my wife, “What do you keep looking at? You’re obsessed!”

Let me preface by disclosing I have no formal mechanical or electrical training but am an avid DIYer and dismantled the engine of my 1986 Camaro at the age of 16 and was unable to put it back together. So now onto starting my first audio install/upgrade. This was preceded by installing Lowrance HDS 9, NMEA network, VHF, MOB+ system, Ttop courtesy LEDs, Ridesteady and soon - TV wake fins. I feel this will be the most complicated and potential for error so putting it out there for critique.


Audio: 4 x JL MX650s, 1x MX10IB3 subwoofer, 1 x JL M700/5 amp

Batteries: stock starter battery (on solar charger), 2 x Duracell group 31 AGMs in parallel (on a Prosport 12 two bank charger)

Cables:
Power to Distributor - KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Guage Power Wire Tinned Pure Oxygen Free Copper. Chose this gauge to avoid voltage drop off as part is being run through the hot engine compartment and I like to overdo things. Positive end connected to house battery switch, neg connected to house battery terminal.

Distributor: Audiopipe Pdcp1414 Power Distribution Agu Fuse Block

Distributor to Amp and Fuse Block: KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Power Wire Tinned Strands of Pure Oxygen Free Copper

Fuse Block: Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks

Speaker Wire for coaxials and sub: KnuKonceptz Karma 12 Gauge Speaker Cable Tinned Oxygen Free Copper speaker cables - they were out of stock with 14 GA so went with 12 GA.

Fuses:
To be inserted on positive 1/0 power wire between distributor and house battery switch, approx 1 foot from switch in battery compartment- Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker
Amazon.com: Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker: Car Electronics
Using 150 Amp b/c plan on adding another amp to power future tower speakers (JL 7.7 or 8.8s - self xmas present.)

1 x 60 AMP Platinum AGU Glass Fuse for use in distributor block to Amp, undecided on distributor fuse to install going to the Blue Sea fuse block (will change depending on what I connect to it I guess)

Mounting amp and distributor to amp board inspired by @Mainah !

Power wire terminals secured by crimping 1/0 terminals with bench vice, hammering flathead screwdriver about ¼ depth for 2-3 indentions on the terminal, soldering with regular on acid paste flux and 60/40 rosin core solder and covering with adhesive heat shrink.

All wires will be protected with split flex tubing and secured ever 18” where applicable.

I think one of the largest dilemmas I am having currently comes in connecting the 12GA wire to the coaxial speakers. On the larger Positive speaker terminal I can use a ¼” female connector, but am unable to find a 12GA compatible connector for the smaller neg terminal. I’m planning on using the larger ¼” female connector with a combination of crimp/solder/ adhesive heat shrink. What do you think?

 

[Dixie Highway]

Are you mounting your sub in the side of the helm? I’m interested in a sub for mine as well, but I’m thinking of a sealed enclosure mounted in the space at the forward end of the changing room/head compartment. If doing an IB mount I’d love to hear how that turns out.

 

[orexismd]

I plan on mounting it on the port side of the helm. Will remove the center rod holder and fit between the other two. I'll post pics as I go along.

 

[Dean P]

being asked by my wife, “What do you keep looking at? You’re obsessed!”

LOL, your's too!!!!! I hate those words. I love being on this forum and working on the boat (as well as taking it out of course). You're doing great and appear to be meticulas. Great qualities for a DIY. Keep it up...

 

[Mainah]

It’s been a past year of Firsts since bringing home my first boat! Thank you for the numerous contributions this group has shared that have allowed for countless hours spent learning and absorbing information and being asked by my wife, “What do you keep looking at? You’re obsessed!”

Let me preface by disclosing I have no formal mechanical or electrical training but am an avid DIYer and dismantled the engine of my 1986 Camaro at the age of 16 and was unable to put it back together. So now onto starting my first audio install/upgrade. This was preceded by installing Lowrance HDS 9, NMEA network, VHF, MOB+ system, Ttop courtesy LEDs, Ridesteady and soon - TV wake fins. I feel this will be the most complicated and potential for error so putting it out there for critique.


Audio: 4 x JL MX650s, 1x MX10IB3 subwoofer, 1 x JL M700/5 amp

Batteries: stock starter battery (on solar charger), 2 x Duracell group 31 AGMs in parallel (on a Prosport 12 two bank charger)

Cables:
Power to Distributor - KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Guage Power Wire Tinned Pure Oxygen Free Copper. Chose this gauge to avoid voltage drop off as part is being run through the hot engine compartment and I like to overdo things. Positive end connected to house battery switch, neg connected to house battery terminal.

Distributor: Audiopipe Pdcp1414 Power Distribution Agu Fuse Block

Distributor to Amp and Fuse Block: KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Power Wire Tinned Strands of Pure Oxygen Free Copper

Fuse Block: Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks

Speaker Wire for coaxials and sub: KnuKonceptz Karma 12 Gauge Speaker Cable Tinned Oxygen Free Copper speaker cables - they were out of stock with 14 GA so went with 12 GA.

Fuses:
To be inserted on positive 1/0 power wire between distributor and house battery switch, approx 1 foot from switch in battery compartment- Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker
Amazon.com: Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker: Car Electronics
Using 150 Amp b/c plan on adding another amp to power future tower speakers (JL 7.7 or 8.8s - self xmas present.)

1 x 60 AMP Platinum AGU Glass Fuse for use in distributor block to Amp, undecided on distributor fuse to install going to the Blue Sea fuse block (will change depending on what I connect to it I guess)

Mounting amp and distributor to amp board inspired by @Mainah !

Power wire terminals secured by crimping 1/0 terminals with bench vice, hammering flathead screwdriver about ¼ depth for 2-3 indentions on the terminal, soldering with regular on acid paste flux and 60/40 rosin core solder and covering with adhesive heat shrink.

All wires will be protected with split flex tubing and secured ever 18” where applicable.

I think one of the largest dilemmas I am having currently comes in connecting the 12GA wire to the coaxial speakers. On the larger Positive speaker terminal I can use a ¼” female connector, but am unable to find a 12GA compatible connector for the smaller neg terminal. I’m planning on using the larger ¼” female connector with a combination of crimp/solder/ adhesive heat shrink. What do you think?

Sounds like you are on the right track. I am no EE major and I learned mostly from reading and plenty of mistakes. On your speaker terminal question I found the correct spades at KnuKnoceptz. Another option is to solder your own connectors onto the speakers terminals or solder directly. As for soldering on lugs just cut off a few pieces of fine electronics solder and stick in there with the crimp before crimping then heat. Or tin the inside of the lug crimp then heat. Honestly the soldering is a bit overkill with a good crimp but never hurts. Tinning the end that sticks out of the lug connecting all of the wires or inside then end if a closed lug will reduce skin effect but so will a good detent crimp and not really something to be concerned about normal and especially if using high quality and big enough wire. No idea what you are using for soldering and heat shrinking now but check out smd stations. You sound like the kind of person who would make good use of one.

Don't forget proper tuning. It matters a lot.

Last thing.... Pics or it did not happen ;-)

 

[orexismd]

Sorry, totally new at this. I need help wiring the speakers and sub to the amp. I have a clarion GR 10 BT with two RCA outputs. One is a front line out which I can connect to the RCA input channel 1 and 2 on the amp. The other is a rear line out or sub out. If I connect that to channel 3 and 4 on the app that will operate the rear speakers. But that leaves the RCA inputs for the sub channel empty on the amp.

 

[orexismd]

OK, think I figured it out. I think I need a four channel RCA cable to connect to the rear speaker RCA output and divides into the rear and sub inputs

 

[orexismd]

System update:

The JLs and amp were a notable improvement over the stock system. Overall quite satisfied with the setup but still felt in needed speakers behind the helm for a better experience. So I added a set of JL MX770s that I planned to place on each side in front of the jump seats and a JL M400/4 to power them +/- room to add on. I found there was not enough spacing between the gunwale walls to accommodate the 7.7s. I switched with the 6.5s on the sides of the center console for 7.7s and used the 6.5s in the rear which fit just right. But now.. no matter how much I've tried looking online, I just can't figure out how to add-on/wire the second amp to the system. The M400 has a preamp output, but the M700 does not. Any help is greatly appreciated before I give in and have to take it to the Audio store =/

 

[Maillis]

Any updates on your install? Did you end up daisy chaining from the M400 to the M700?

 

[orexismd]

Any updates on your install? Did you end up daisy chaining from the M400 to the M700?

From the head unit I ran the front RCA outputs to the m400 CH 1&2 and put ap into 2ch input mode. I ran an RCA from the Preamp output jacks on the m400 to Ch 1&2 on the m700. I ran the rear outputs from the HU to CH 3&4 of the m700 and have the m700 set to 4CH input mode. installed a JL MM50 after the tock clarion stopped working. used and SMD DD-1 Distortion detector to tune the amps and the system sounds awesome!! I still have room to run another set of speakers if I want to the m400, but really don't feel it needs it. Very happy with the set up.

 

[brian86992]

How are you liking the performance of the sub? Did you ever add an enclosure to it?

Also, do you recall the length of wire you needed to get from the batteries to the amps?

Very clean install, btw. Love your distribution box and organization on the board.

 

[orexismd]

I love the way it sounds! Impressively Loud and clean! No enclosure on the sub but I may reinforce it with a ring of starboard, or something similar like the cheap white plastic cutting boards in the future. I don’t recall the length of the wires but I just measured it out roughly and then bought a little extra.

 

[Camson]

Did you end up getting the JL Audio M3 or M6 speakers? Just wondering the sound quality difference? Do they fit in same holes with screws aligned or did you have to drill new holes?

 

[212s]

Did you end up getting the JL Audio M3 or M6 speakers? Just wondering the sound quality difference? Do they fit in same holes with screws aligned or did you have to drill new holes?

Based on the pics, they're M3 which are very good and would be my choice too, the M6 are built for more power but sound about the same, maybe a bit smoother.

The M3 6.5" use the same 4 screw hole patterns. The M6 are heavier with beefier magnets and basket and use a 6-screw pattern.

 

[Camson]

Sounds good. I will order the M3's to make it easy to swap out the JL Audio speakers for the stock speakers. I will run 14 gauge wire to the helm speakers including the sub but should I run new wires to the two front speakers?
If I decide to add two new 6.5 speakers in addition to the 4 current speakers and one sub I am installing, do you think the JL Audio M800 amp would work instead of having a M700 and M400?
And I only plan on using power from the battery to the amp so would I be fine adding 4 gauge wire run instead of 0/1 gauge?

 

[brian86992]

I left the stock front speaker wires. I'm not sure of their gauge but seem to work just fine.

The single 5+ channel amp is much nicer to wire up than a 4 channel + sub amp. Simplifies your heavy gauge wiring and stereo inputs a lot.

 

[212s]

My 2020 has 14awg speaker wires which is plenty hefty...I didn't want the hassle of trying to figure out what goes where, so I just ran new wires to all speakers so I could wire it the way I wanted to my amp.

 

[Camson]

My 2020 has 14awg speaker wires which is plenty hefty...I didn't want the hassle of trying to figure out what goes where, so I just ran new wires to all speakers so I could wire it the way I wanted to my amp.

I totally understand what you are saying but the FSH only come with 4 stock speakers and two of them are in the helm where the radio is located so those speaker wires are very easy to find. That only leaves two speakers so I guess the hardest part is which one is left and right. I probably will not run new speaker wires to the front out of being lazy but if I notice any sound issues, I will for sure run new wires.
I ordered everything I think I need but of course my amp will arrive this week and speakers might arrive by end of month or early Nov. That is okay because I need to wait till cooler weather. Still 90 degrees here during the day.

 

[212s]

I totally understand what you are saying but the FSH only come with 4 stock speakers and two of them are in the helm where the radio is located so those speaker wires are very easy to find. That only leaves two speakers so I guess the hardest part is which one is left and right.

If you pull the speakers out, you can see the colour coding used for each speaker to help identify left/right and pos/neg. I was going to do that until I realized I have to change wiring for the cockpit and rear speakers since they were wired in series and I wasn't sure how the Yamaha harness was set up. Figured it would be faster and easier to just run my own wiring and then I know it's right.

I probably will not run new speaker wires to the front out of being lazy but if I notice any sound issues, I will for sure run new wires.

I doubt you'll have any issues with the stock wires, wire is wire and 14awg is hefty enough for a couple hundred watts of pumping power, just figuring out which one goes where. It'll probably be a lot easier since you can get to the back of the radio and see all the wires?

 

[orexismd]

I went with Audio: 4 x JL MX650s(front and rear), 1x MX10IB3 subwoofer (helm), 2xJL M3770s(on the helm). upgraded all the wiring- don't want to worry about any overheating/fires and protected all wiring with cable sleeves =). Probably not necessary but I like the peace of mind.