Fuel in Oil - 05... intermittent.

[DeathBySanity]

All, I updated the threat title with everything I have done to this point. My boat still = broken... but hope I am getting closer.

 

[DeathBySanity]

There are numerous tests for the ignition system components in the service manual. Could be a loose injector connection, or a coil that changes resistance as the motor heats up.

Starting to really think this is it... will be doing a deep dive tomorrow!

 

[Beachbummer]

If you suspect the coils, you can swap then easily from one engine to the other to see if the problem follows before you drive deeper.

(Not a super piece of cake, but easy enough, one bolt per coil to swap)

 

[WREKS]

YDS is readily available on ebay for under $60. All you need is a pc with a USB port. Do you actually smell gas only when you remove the oil cap?

 

[DeathBySanity]

Okay update # lost track. I got the YDS hooked up and the issue never showed itself ... While stationary, I performed the injector test. It passed with flying colors on injectors 2-4, but I didn't hear any clicking on #1. This would explain the fuel smell in the oil if its stuck open, but still does not help with the intermittent issue, as the boat ran fine with the stuck injector. I plan to pull the throttle body finally and see if it is a computer issue with the injector being stuck open, or if it is an issue with the injector itself (swapping injectors and performing the fuel pump pressurizing test & firing the injectors). Getting there, just not as fast as I would like.
@Beachbummer, I have all the tools in the boat to swap coil packs now. If I get the issue, I will YDS the boat to get the graph, and then I will swap the packs to see if it swaps sides.

 

[Beachbummer]

But if the injector does not click now for you with the test, I think you have a problem (The injector may be stuck open just a little bit? and it doesn't click closed?). I think you can swap the connectors without removing too much. Can you try moving the plug from injector 1 to 2 and vice versa and see if the issue follows the injector or the connector? (For testing only, I would not try to run the engine that way for sure)Even connecting and disconnecting the injector to see if it clicks as soon as it's plugged in may help.

 

[DeathBySanity]

Okay YDS Gods, and humans with superpowers I have a few runs on my YDS to share. The link below shows a good run, and two runs with the issue. I cant tell if there is an issue by looking at the specs and was hoping something popped out to you all.

YDIS Runs - Google Drive

drive.google.com

Additionally, I thought I swapped the ECU before, but turns out I wasn't that smart and swapped out the Rectifier & Regulator Assy's. After doing some further investigation, I realized I never swapped the ECU. This weekend I did swap the ECU and noticed the the starboard engine ecu (the one with issues) was already moded/repaired. Suspect I have an injector wrecking ECU's...

I will be taking the throttle body off both engines on my next available weekend to spark test all coil packs, ohm each injector, and then take her for a run/buy a new ecu... Loving this jet boat... lol.

Finally, on the plus side, I was able to use a jack on some 2x4's that finally popped my plugs out to have access to the impeller, just incase I suck up another rope lol

 

[Beachbummer]

Do you see any traces of water inside the electrical boxes? Many folks finding this issue have done so after seeing water inside the boxes. Since you already have an Injector that doesn't click when you do the test, if that behavior moved sides with your ECU swap, no need to test much more, just get a new (or used?) ECU or get this one repaired.

Best of Luck, we are rooting for you.

 

[DeathBySanity]

Do you see any traces of water inside the electrical boxes? Many folks finding this issue have done so after seeing water inside the boxes. Since you already have an Injector that doesn't click when you do the test, if that behavior moved sides with your ECU swap, no need to test much more, just get a new (or used?) ECU or get this one repaired.

Best of Luck, we are rooting for you.

Thanks for the motivation. On the plus side, no sign of water... and I was missing a bolt for the ECU box. I will be doing a diagnostic day and find all of that out. I am nervous that the injector is damaging the ECU because someone sold the boat and didn't disclose the issue. Now seeing a new ECU and a repaired ECU, I am thinking I have an injector doing damage to an ECU. Hopefully I didnt wreck the other ECU.

 

[WREKS]

@DeathBySanity I do not see any Diagnosis or Diagnosis Record from your YDS results only Engine Monitor and Data Logging. Do you know if that is available for your version of YDS?

 

[DeathBySanity]

@DeathBySanity I do not see any Diagnosis or Diagnosis Record from your YDS results only Engine Monitor and Data Logging. Do you know if that is available for your version of YDS?

It is, but there was no codes in the records.

 

[DeathBySanity]

5/21/21- Hooked up spark tester on both starboard and port engines; all 8 cylinders good to go. Pulled fuel rail on starboard engine to ohm out the injectors. All injectors tested out at 12.3 -12.5 on starboard. But while I was digging the injectors out, I found one heck of a surprise! See link below.
View attachment 151791
Yes, that is some crazy engineering, wiring injector 1 to injector 2. So while I had an ECU issue with injector one, someone thought it was a good idea to wire them together so they both fire at the same time (possibly to overcome an injector .
So I clipped the wire, installed the injectors and the fuel rail. They all seemed to fire, since the bad ECU was moved to port (comparing to the test performed on 4/18/21). At this point I was relieved and stressed about the wiring so I only did the YDS injector test on port side. Injectors 2 and 4 would fire, 1 and 3 would not. This confirmed the ECU being bad since I just swapped them. Finally, I confirmed I had a bad ECU. I then ordered a new ECU.

5/28/21 - Took off port side fuel rail, tested all injectors. Injector 2 ohm'd out at 18 so I replaced it. I also replaced the ECU. So everything fired up appropriately and seemed to run just great. Then a few hours later when I tried to start the starboard engine, it did not want to start. after 5 min of trying to crank it, bam... it worked like nothing ever happened. I think I am fighting a new issue now.

I am thinking fuel pump going out... maybe? Buying some in-line fuel gauges to get real time stats on the fuel pumps. Anyone have any other ideas? Its weird because this happened one other time, but thought it was related to my ECU. Once it starts, it runs perfectly.

 

[Beachbummer]

Disconnect/Test Lanyard switch. 9/10 crank and no start problems, it's the lanyard switch and/or clean out hatch safety switches.

Best of luck!

 

[DeathBySanity]

Thanks @Beachbummer but it is cranking but not starting. Any other thoughts?

 

[buckbuck]

"crank but no start" condition is typically the lanyard switch. It is actually 2 switches, one for each engine. Some times you can simply exercise it to the extent of its limits multiple times and it will resolve the issue. I think I would try to work some silicone spray into the contacts. Keep us posted.

 

[Beachbummer]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/jumper-the-clean-out-hatch-switch.13824/page-2#post-531533 Here some info on how the different colored wires participate in the process of preventing spark and cranking.

 

[DeathBySanity]

Thank you for that @Beachbummer

 

[DeathBySanity]

Okay, pulled the key and reset it a few times. Did not have any issues all day yesterday. Thank you to everyone who helped me in this endeavor!