Jumper the Clean-Out Hatch Switch???

[Bill D]

I had a latch break on my clenout cover last weekend. As expected, it was the starboard latch, so the hatch was loose enough to stop the boat. We were running at 45 mph when it shut down. Since the port side latch was still good, I was able to shove about 5 Koozies over the switches and got the boat back in operation.

It sucked, but all in all it wasn't a day ender. IMHO, the switches are necessary. I'll be replacing those garbage patches with new ones as soon as they arrive and not only will it be of better quality, it will be easier to operate.

If for any reason the impellers turned while my hand was in there it would be catastrophic. Having more than one device preventing that is prudent.

I would believe the switches to be hard wired kill switches in the ignition circuit and not simply inputs to the ECU.

 

[Mpdruss]

Hoping someone has answer before I seal up the clean-out port top plate, would like to just jumper while I have that off before I re-silicon it. Looks like a total no-brainer to jumper around, just a little nervous without wiring diagram.

I may just remove it and clamp it closed with hose-clamp around it and just zip tie under the seal plate. I will still be able to get to it through the access holes if something went wrong. Would rather just electrically jump it though, would be very clean and trouble free.

I know this is an old thread but I noticed you talking about sealing up your middle plate with silicon. I bought a used 08 AR210 and noticed that the previous owner had siliconed the plate between the clean out plugs. I'm wondering why he did that . Why did you have to silicone yours? I'm having some stating issues and I'm wondering if the previous owner had the same problem that he forgot to tell me.

 

[Scottintexas]

@Mpdruss glad to have you on board,
by "middle plate" if you mean the clean out tube cover that has about 20 screws, some have silicone that in an attempt to keep water that washes up on the swim deck from entering the bilge,

be sure to check your scupper valve as that can be a big problem,
look in the link in my signature below for some known issues with your boat,
and update your profile with your location so we know where your at!


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[Mpdruss]

@Mpdruss glad to have you on board,
by "middle plate" if you mean the clean out tube cover that has about 20 screws, some have silicone that in an attempt to keep water that washes up on the swim deck from entering the bilge,

be sure to check your scupper valve as that can be a big problem,
look in the link in my signature below for some known issues with your boat,
and update your profile with your location so we know where your at!


.

Thanks for the advice Scott. Yes, the plate between the two Clean Out plugs. I'm having some issues with maybe the starboard switch or solenoid and I was going to check the latch kill switches first. I thought maybe the previous owner had the same problem and had to get into that plate at one point or another and that's why it was siliconed up.

 

[Floridaman79]

Resurrecting an old thread....So yesterday I was launching the boat, port engine fired right up. Starboard engine cranked but wouldn't start. I cranked for about 5 seconds, let it sit cranked for another 5 seconds, after that key would not crank engine at all. I wiggled the lanyard switch, neutral switch opened the hatch and plunged the hatch interlock switches and nothing.

Took the boat back home and with some more tickling of the hatch interlock switch got the boat working normal again. Here is my dilemma though, I was going to go offshore that day if the weather would have been better. I get that the switches are a safety mechanism to keep the engine from either starting or cranking when cleaning ports are removed. However, that needs to be weighed against the consequence and likelihood of having an engine either quit whole underway or not start at all leaving the family stranded. Also the switches are in an area where they are subjected to saltwater.

So here is my thinking, seems like the best thing to do in this case is to bypass the switch by connecting terminals e and f and leaving b and c open on the switch interlocks. Safety could be controlled procedurally by simply turning the start battery disconnect prior to removing the clean out ports.

I was fortunate this happened at the ramp as opposed to being 15 miles offshore but this has really started me thinking. I'll also be looking at other potential workarounds if needed, the lanyard could be disabled by simply unplugging, haven't looked into the neutral switch yet. The other idea could be to make some shorting plugs that could be installed on the boat in the event they are needed. Installation would be done in the engine compartment as opposed to the rear hatch, but Murphys law suggests it would need to be done in rough seas.

Thoughts anyone?

 

[Babin Farms]

Last resort would be to bypass. Adjust the height of the switches to make sure they are working properly first and If one is not working as it should I would replace ASAP. It only takes once to forget to shut engines down and have a very bad day.

 

[Beachbummer]

One of mine broke and almost killed the day last year. I was able to rig it with zip ties. I've since bypassed both. switches I see it the same as taking the guard of the table saw. If you know what you are doing hopefully no harm, but you better pay attention. This is a very personal choice that I cannot recommend, but there is no hatch police that will come to hunt you, so do what you think its best for you. I can clean out one side while the other engine is running and the boat is not totally out of control. I just take the key out of the ignition and tell the driver (my wife) if you put this key on and crank before I tell you you will chop my arm off, please don't. So far so good.

The switch has 2 sides, one that kills the ignition and the other that allows cranking.

(White and black is the same circuit that kills ignition when connected. If white touches black in this circuit the engine will not have spark and will shut down if running, but cranking of the starter motor is not prevented. That is achieved by breaking the continuity of the brown wires. So, if you needed to bypass the switch electrically you could separate black and white wires, allowing spark, and bridge the 2 brown wires, allowing cranking.

The Brown wires feed the same circuit that goes to your FNR lever so you cannot crank while not in neutral. (Neutral connected, can crank, Not on Neutral, Not connected, cannot crank)The black and white are the same circuit in the lanyard dead man switch.

If you are in gear with the lanyard pulled, you are electrically the same as with the hatch open.

both must be set correctly per the wiring diagram. I'm not sorry yet, but it's early.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I call switches like these “anti stupid” switches.. and we are all stupid sometimes, I’ve got scars and had broken bones to prove it. In the electrical world we have what are called Kirk keys. These keys are set up so that when working on high voltage, the key to open a particular panel where this high voltage is, comes from the feeding circuit breaker. If you twist the key to remove it to gain access to the panel, the breaker is tripped. Keeps you from doing something stupid and forever changing your life for the worse.

There has been more than one person killed and thousands of others burned who have gained access around a Kirk key protected area. I’d want to know how to get around these cut off switches if one failed, but only for that time it took to get back in and get a replacement.

Keep in mind, you would have to keep in mind that this system has been by passed. What if you forget (see stupid above) because you are preoccupied? What if its a family member who doesn’t have this in their memory that is trying to clear a clog?

Electricity and machines are non discriminatory... they don’t care what sex you are or what color your skin is, or where you pray, they will chew you up and spit you out faster than you can say Jack Roberts and feel no remorse.

One of the maintenance items and I believe it is on the pre launch check list is to verify that these switches work as designed.

 

[Dulaneyjared]

I still think, even when you describe your event above, that defeating this safety interlock it is not justified. Regarding your event above why wouldnt you simply ensure the hatch is fully closed and latches engaged each time and the switch adjusted properly? You should be doing this anyways as the operator of the boat.
When comparing ensuring the hatch is closed properly and latches engaged each time prior to starting the boat VS defeating the switch, writing warnings under the hatch and coaching everyone on the boat not to touch the key plus hoping your ignition switch doesnt internally short some day (which I have had happen) it seems very obvious one of those choices is a much more logical and simple choice. And the results of defeating the switch could be catastrophic.

However it is nice to know how to defeat each safety interlock. I think I will compile a list of all the safety interlocks and how to bypass them and store it in a pouch on my boat along with some pre-made jumpers. Any one of these can strand you in the water with a switch failure.


According the the SX192 manual the plug that connects to the hatch switch should be a 4 pin plug. C D E F.
E and F will have continuity when not pushed and C and D will have continuity when pushed.

Way more likely to have this happen where the latch is down properly with kids that sticking your hand into the clean out and someone starting the engine. The logic is ridiculous. As the “operator of the boat” you make sure no one fires the flipping engine while you have your hand in there.

 

[Jobyn252]

To start off: Yes I know the risk and anyone attempting to remove this safety feature should be certain it is worth it. If you don’t like this discussion then please don’t reply.

I have a 2021 252S. I use the clean out port hatch for my second anchor. I like to have the anchor ready and turning the engines on and off to get the anchor out is annoying. So I found a solution that works without cutting any wires.
I used a stainless steel nut to attach the two switches together which engages the connection. I used the two plastic nuts to secure the stainless nut so it won’t back out. Then for added security I wrapped electrical tape around the threaded area and over the nuts. To add more security I wrapped it with foam and more electrical tape. This should reduce any vibration that could loosen the nuts. Then I attached it with a zip tie to a drain hose where it shouldn’t get wet.
The two open holes were filled with plastic grommets and silicone. Hope this helps anyone attempting this modification. Good Luck?

 

[Babin Farms]

 

[Beachbummer]

Beware mine broke exactly at the threads. In site it's a rare failure, but it can happen.

 

[Jobyn252]

Beware mine broke exactly at the threads. In site it's a rare failure, but it can happen.

That is why I wrapped it with electrical tape then adhesive foam and then electrical tape again. It seems that vibration is the number one cause of things coming loose and then breaking on these boats. So it is still a possibility. Thank You