Gel Coat Repair - After Snap Removal / SeaDek Install

[swatski]

This has been driving me crazy. After installing SeaDek, no matter how much you try there are ugly snap-holes left (uncovered by the SeaDek). NOT a fault of JBP (manufacturer) at all! Rather, it is Yamaha's incredibly sloppy process of placing the carpet snaps - and many of the holes show spider cracks from factory!

On my last install I ended up with 10 or 11 (sic) "uncovered" holes like this one...


I have initially filled those in with 3M 5200 which does fine in terms of keeping the water out but discolors quickly (yellows).

So, finally I got to try fixing those holes properly.

Here is a hole filled with 5200 a year earlier - note yellowing of 5200:


To clean those holes up - using dremel tool:





To fill - the Spectrum (OEM) gel coat paste kit:


(gel coat matching published by @Ziess21 in https://jetboaters.net/threads/gelcoat-color-codes.14924/#post-257300)

To follow up - gel coat is curing now, after some (gentle) heat gun action will give it 24-48hrs to cure:


Next up - start sanding/buffing this weekend.

Hoping for "undetectable" results!

We'll see (TBA)

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[zipper]

@swatski, that pic. above of spider cracked hole. Did the factory countersink the gelcoat at the hole before they screwed the snap in? I do see other cracks along the same edge near bottom of pic. Would you consider the gelcoat thicker there? Or a stress point of a locker door, I think I see the end of a hinge at top of pic. What you have done so far looks great.

 

[2kwik4u]

I'm following this very closely. I was coming on this morning to search for this EXACT kind of repair.

Had the ski handle snapped from the water while reeling in underway last weekend. Handle bonked the rear of the boat and knocked a chunk of coating out.

Here's what I'm going to attempt to repair:



Where did you purchase the new gelcoat from?

 

[Brian_NY]

You can get a Gelcoat repair kit from www.spectrumcolor.com/
I added a color chart for 2017 Yamaha Jetboats which includes the proper codes for color match.

 

[jvegas]

I've used that gel coat repair product years ago and it works well. you can save finishing time by covering the wet patch with tape or cellophane which will flatten out the gel.

 

[2kwik4u]

Does this look like the right product?

Quart of Gel Coat Patch

 

[Brian_NY]

I don't have the color chart for a 19 footer. Give Spectrum a call at 800-754-5516. They were very friendly and helpful when I called them on Wednesday.

 

[Trevor Shipman]

Subscribed

 

[All Seas]

also in for results.

just filled the ones that would be covered with seadek with 3m 4000 UV to test the results before trying on exposed locations

 

[swatski]

Does this look like the right product?

Quart of Gel Coat Patch

You painting the hull or patching a small hole/scratch, lolol? Those 2oz paste kits are perfect for small jobs, it's a lot of paste really.
Spectrum manufactures all newer Yamaha OEM gel coats, and supplies OEM gel coat resins and repair kits in various sizes and exact colors used in production. iBoats is the only supplier/seller.

Whites are among the most difficult to match. The guides I've seen from Spectrum (linked earlier in the thread) call for the white "WC5" for most newer Yammies - for everything on deck and top hull cap.

I would call Spectrum 800-754-5516. Have your VIN/manufacturer/hull number handy.


EDIT: Having done it many times, I still find this old DIY guide useful - maybe the best short doc on this topic I've ever seen. I still follow it, loosely.
http://www.optistuff.com/info/faq/instructions/GelcoatRepairInstructions.pdf

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[swatski]

also in for results.

just filled the ones that would be covered with seadek with 3m 4000 UV to test the results before trying on exposed locations

that's exactly what I did, I filled all the holes with 3M 5200 BEFORE installing the SeaDek. Now - I'm only redoing the ones that are exposed, for cosmetic reasons. If I did it again, I would do them all in gel coat right away, the reason being the exposed holes that are located close to SeaDek edges are a little harder to sand and buff (without touching SeaDek).

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[swatski]

@swatski, that pic. above of spider cracked hole. Did the factory countersink the gelcoat at the hole before they screwed the snap in? I do see other cracks along the same edge near bottom of pic. Would you consider the gelcoat thicker there? Or a stress point of a locker door, I think I see the end of a hinge at top of pic. What you have done so far looks great.

Well, about half of all (many) snap holes in the deck have had spider cracks spreading from out... Really unbelievable. No countersinking, nothing. Those looks like a drilling job done by an untrained adolescent male in a hurry! lol

I have also had spider cracks in this boat since brand new... like this one:


My dealer is willing to fix those as I have documented several spots from day 1, just never had the time to take the boat there and leave it, it would be weeks.

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[swatski]

I finished most of the spots today, came out pretty good.
(Kate couldn't find the spots, so I would say - good enough, lol)

 

[zipper]

Very nice! Job well done.

 

[seanmclean]

I finished most of the spots today, came out pretty good.
(Kate couldn't find the spots, so I would say - good enough, lol)
View attachment 81106

View attachment 81107

View attachment 81108

I was only able to see where one of the snaps was. I'd say you did a damn good job.

 

[McMark]

Excellent work!

 

[Chester]

Wow! Awesome job. Can you outline the sanding and buffing procedure and what you used to get those results. Thanks

 

[tdonoughue]

Very nicely done.

I would only recommend for the ones with large spider cracks, use the same dremmel tool, but follow the crack to expand it out (basically draw over it with the dremmel held like a pencil) and then do the same thing. That gelcoat stuff is magic to repair once you try it.

 

[swatski]

Wow! Awesome job. Can you outline the sanding and buffing procedure and what you used to get those results. Thanks

Yes, of course.
I would recommend this short read, I have found it to be so no-nonsense, and basically spot on.
I've shortened the process a bit here, but follow the basic protocol:
1. clean up the crack/hole, whatever it is - so that there is no sealant/dirt or rot, use a dremel tool with an attachment like this.

I tend to use a shop vac whenever I do anything involving fiberglass/gelcoat repair/drilling etc, and position the nozzle right next to the job, really helps keep things clean. Also, cover the deck and seats with an old blanket/big towels. Good lighting is a must.

2. Fill the void with the paste, using disposable small speckling tools, tongue depressors, a nail/pin etc. For the paste, follow the package directions, mix it in the packaging makes it easy.


Generally better to put too little MEK rather than too much.

3. For anything deeper/larger several applications of the paste (with a rough grind in between) are a must.
A heat gun will help jump start the curing process.


4. I used a dremel again to remove excess material


5. After that - wet sanding, a simple detail sander, or a small/tiny block, whatever works

(this pic - has the foam pad, not for sanding, that's for the next step - w/105)

6. More sanding. This is really labor of love. You can progress as fast or as slow as you want. For a dark-color hull - I would be taking 10x more time than here - doing white deck (white is a lot more forgiving, cosmetically speaking, and deck has a lot of textured parts so it is much harder to spot gloss imperfections)

7. Cutting paste of some sort. I like the 105, foam pad or waxing pad, towel, whatever.


8. After that - it really depends. I stopped there and just waxed.

For routine maintenance I use mostly 303 AP on everything inside, but glass. I love it. You can wipe it dry and leave with that wet look or buff to full gloss (need to let it dry completely for that - about 24hrs). The 303 conditions and prevents dry rotting of rubber and plastic - in a major way.

For glass - I spray the rubber/windshield seals with 303 a couple times a year to condition and sunblock (then windex or similar on glass only)
(but that's for a different thread, lol)

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[msavold]

Reviving this thread from last summer found after a search for a really dumbass move involving boat and dock on first launch of the year....
@swatski thanks for the link. Really useful instruction sheet!
For others reading, link has changed a bit: https://optistuff.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/GelcoatRepairInstructions.pdf
Hull ding first, yellowed 5400 next.