getting an ar230 have a few questions

[Andy S]

Pics of the damaged areas

I would remove all the graphics before you try to restore the gelcoat. After your restore the gelcoat then you can decided to add new graphics or leave her naked.

 

[muszallkr]

That is the plan. I probably wont put them back on. Or ill have the wife cut something custom for it.

 

[Wayloncle]

Go to your local Yamaha dealer for the flush fittings, they are like $1.47 each.....probably the cheapest part in their supply system.

 

[muszallkr]

Thanks, heading to myrtle beach today so hopefully i pass one.

Update: got a new battery and fired both motors up ( just for a sec or 2). Oil change and spark plugs as well as some fuel treatment will happen this week

 

[Andy S]

Thanks, heading to myrtle beach today so hopefully i pass one.

Update: got a new battery and fired both motors up ( just for a sec or 2). Oil change and spark plugs as well as some fuel treatment will happen this week

Waverunner's use the same fitting, so don't look just for a boat dealer.

 

[muszallkr]

Awesome thanks

 

[OCMD]

Even if you have to stick 6-7000 cash into this project, assuming the engines are tight (and that is a pretty good assumption) you are still 10 k ahead of the game and will have made out wonderfully. Good luck.

 

[muszallkr]

Thats my thoughts. My plan is to do the seats and little stuff this winter. Want to get it out on the water before the season ends

 

[muszallkr]

Havent been able to find the answer, does the ar230 have a fuel filter/s and if so where are they located?

 

[Scottintexas]

it's on the fuel pump

 

[Scottintexas]

you will need a Robertson #4 bit to get your floor panel up, some members have been able to remove them with a flat head screw driver but others (mine included) have had some bolts sealed in with a white chalky substance that will break the screw head before it will unscrew, if you have any that are difficult, get the correct bit and work it a 16th of a turn back and forth,

here's a link to a previous post for the bit and where you can buy it from because most hardware stores don't carry it,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/sold-out-lawson-fa5515-4-robertson-bits-for-sx230-fuel-tank-hatch-2-mailed.6247/

 

[muszallkr]

you will need a Robertson #4 bit to get your floor panel up, some members have been able to remove them with a flat head screw driver but others (mine included) have had some bolts sealed in with a white chalky substance that will break the screw head before it will unscrew, if you have any that are difficult, get the correct bit and work it a 16th of a turn back and forth,

here's a link to a previous post for the bit and where you can buy it from because most hardware stores don't carry it,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/sold-out-lawson-fa5515-4-robertson-bits-for-sx230-fuel-tank-hatch-2-mailed.6247/

Thanks. got the flush adapter today, put some fuel treatment in yesterday. going to run the motors for a little bit this evening and change the oil and plugs (if the plugs came in like they said they should)

 

[muszallkr]

Ok back to needing a little info.
Took the boat out to the local lake for a test run prior to it going for the hull repair ( as of right now it is usable but i don't like the way it looks so it will be fixed properly in the near future). 2 things I am unsure of and need help with.
1) while cruising along (about 2 mins after leaving the marina) get the boat going up in speed and no issues, then the left propeller access blows out (well up and out of the hole) not sure if it was seated properly or not but i lost propulsion on that motor, got it back in and all was good. was it just not seated properly or does something cause this to happen and its a fail safe to blow out?

2) running the motors with the hose hooked up in the driveway i was able to use seedeater string to get what i thought was the pee pipes cleared and hot water was flowing. i only noticed the 2 that are next to each other at the rear of the boat, start one motor and one hole pees, switch to the other and the other pees. then i notice the other 2 pee holes that are a little further up. is one set for one motor and the other for the other? should all 4 holes be peeing when the motor is running?

 

[Andy S]

@muszallkr

1) The plug probably blew to it not being seated properly. However the plugs have been known to disengage themselves and blow. To help prevent blowouts there are two after market kits that help prevent disengagements. One is from cobrajetsteering (at the bottom of the page) and one from jetboatpilot (I currently can't find it the tru locks on the website but here is an install video).

2) When running on the hose there is not enough water flow for the forward pee holes to spit water, these are off the exhaust. If you rev the engines you might get a trickle. However, they should pee when on the water at speed.

 

[Gym]

As @andy07sx230ho stated low pressure from the hose will not allow the upper pee holes to operate. When operating at or above 5000 RPM, while on the water, you should see them operate. To keep your clean out plugs in place I would consider @andy07sx230ho first suggestion from cobrajetsteering. many of us have used this device for many years with confidence. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to install and can be visually confirmed that they are engaged.

 

[muszallkr]

thanks for the info. my top speed was about 35, and that was 9k rpms. my brother stopped by yesterday on his way through town and said that i should be cruising 25-30 at 6krpms. so now i need to look into that. I attribute some of the loss in speed to the rough patch job on the bottom of the boat. i don't want to carry it to get repaired just yet, want to make sure I'm not going to need to put 10k into the motors first. They ran good all day, and put a lot of time on them so i am confident once i figure out the throttle issue i will just need the hull and vinyl fixed and she will be great again.

 

[Andy S]

@muszallkr

Will your motors get to 10k rpm? If so then you motors are good, if not you probably need new spark plugs.

Two things that might limit speed at rpm's.

1 - the impellers dinged up. Put the throttles in the forward position (raise the buck out of the way) and look through the nozzle to inspect the impeller.
2 - caulk around pump assembly and intake grate has fallen out.

 

[muszallkr]

@muszallkr

Will your motors get to 10k rpm? If so then you motors are good, if not you probably need new spark plugs.

Two things that might limit speed at rpm's.

1 - the impellers dinged up. Put the throttles in the forward position (raise the buck out of the way) and look through the nozzle to inspect the impeller.
2 - caulk around pump assembly and intake grate has fallen out.

They get to just under 10k, and that is the first run on new spark plugs. I did still have some of the old fuel in there, pretty much burned it all out now. Could be a restricted filter as well I'm guessing. I didn't have time to pull the fuel hatch and pumps to check the filters. I will do that as well.

I will check the caulk around the pump assembly and intake grates.

Thanks again for all the help. It will be another few weeks before I can get it back on the water.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

i just did a bunch of repairs/overhaul on my boat.
i'm curious: is your engine bay damaged at all from the impact flexing the hull in and stressing it?

if you're getting even close to 10k on both motors, i'd wager you are good to go ...it's a pretty reliable/simple positive diagnostic. if you're turning RPMs that well, i'd blame your pumps and hull. that underside damage looks like it is mid-repair, like it has been ground/prepped for repair? i imagine (hope) the shop is going to remove the intake grates AND ducts for the repair, right? the ducts are a pain to pull, but i posted a thread on here. when you go to re-install them, message me for some tips to get a good seal and prevent cavitation. pull the pumps (very easy) before taking it in: tear them down and clean them up. when you reassble them, use some Yamabond to prevent any chance of cavitation. i say all this because i wouldn't worry too much about trying to get to 47-50mph if your engines are turning well - you'll get it all right during assembly and likely resolve the issue. send the impellers out for refurb ($120pr at SBT) if they look beat up. check your intermediate bearing housings inside the engine bays to make sure the vulcanized rubber isn't separating that allows water to leak in - not going to be easy with the engines installed. do all this while everything is already torn apart to save yourself the headache later.

 

[muszallkr]

i just did a bunch of repairs/overhaul on my boat.
i'm curious: is your engine bay damaged at all from the impact flexing the hull in and stressing it?

if you're getting even close to 10k on both motors, i'd wager you are good to go ...it's a pretty reliable/simple positive diagnostic. if you're turning RPMs that well, i'd blame your pumps and hull. that underside damage looks like it is mid-repair, like it has been ground/prepped for repair? i imagine (hope) the shop is going to remove the intake grates AND ducts for the repair, right? the ducts are a pain to pull, but i posted a thread on here. when you go to re-install them, message me for some tips to get a good seal and prevent cavitation. pull the pumps (very easy) before taking it in: tear them down and clean them up. when you reassble them, use some Yamabond to prevent any chance of cavitation. i say all this because i wouldn't worry too much about trying to get to 47-50mph if your engines are turning well - you'll get it all right during assembly and likely resolve the issue. send the impellers out for refurb ($120pr at SBT) if they look beat up. check your intermediate bearing housings inside the engine bays to make sure the vulcanized rubber isn't separating that allows water to leak in - not going to be easy with the engines installed. do all this while everything is already torn apart to save yourself the headache later.

that is the repair that was done by someone else, it is glassed and has resin on it but its not what it needs to be....lets call a spade a spade...its a freaking hack job, I am taking it to a friend/professional body shop owner that is such a perfectionist that it drives me nuts...but thats what i need. all of this crap will be cut out and replaced/repaired as it should be.
I plan to do everything you mentioned at his shop since he has the tools and equipment to get us into a better working position and the boat can be in the air (and i get free winter storage out of the deal). I also plan to rebuild the access plugs. I figure the hack job repair is slowing the top speed but not by 15 mph, I may be wrong though. As of right now I have $400 out of pocket on getting it to where it is and getting it on the water to test it out so I don't feel like i am in a bad position.

As far as the engine bay goes, I do not believe it is damaged the outer hull is what took the majority of the hit and the boat tracks straight and we did not notice any abnormal rotation of the motors while launching from a stop ( dad launched it while i held the seat up to see how much motor movement there is.

Thanks again everyone for helping out, as things go on i will update y'all and probably ask a few more questions.