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Going to try and fit 8” speakers in the factory 6” location

The right tools are everything and at $100 its easy.
 
The right tools are everything and at $100 its easy.

the body shop quoted me $60 to cut all 4 speaker holes and a hole in the stern for the remote. I own a jigsaw and a dremel. A lot of places I was reading say a air actuated body saw is best. I don’t have one of those.
 
That price isn’t bad at all, I would have figured much more.
 
That price isn’t bad at all, I would have figured much more.

Didn't want to start another thread:

Might be a silly question, but I'll have to run a negative wire from the helm where the amplifier is located all the way back to where the battery is located since there isn't a metal grounded frame (like a vehicle) to tie into locally, correct? I can run a local busbar in the helm to tie in multiple amplifiers with one home run to the battery compartment. Or, is there already a ground local to the helm that I can tie into and not have to run completely back to the batteries? That 1/0 tinned OFC copper ain't cheap....
 
Didn't want to start another thread:

Might be a silly question, but I'll have to run a negative wire from the helm where the amplifier is located all the way back to where the battery is located since there isn't a metal grounded frame (like a vehicle) to tie into locally, correct? I can run a local busbar in the helm to tie in multiple amplifiers with one home run to the battery compartment. Or, is there already a ground local to the helm that I can tie into and not have to run completely back to the batteries? That 1/0 tinned OFC copper ain't cheap....

yeah, you are going to have to run a ground wire all the way back to the battery. There isn’t a ground wire big enough under the helm for an amp. As for the bus bar. Yeah, you can run one wire up to a bus bar and then have multiple wires coming off that (just watch out for the gauge wire you use and amp requirements)
 
yeah, you are going to have to run a ground wire all the way back to the battery. There isn’t a ground wire big enough under the helm for an amp. As for the bus bar. Yeah, you can run one wire up to a bus bar and then have multiple wires coming off that (just watch out for the gauge wire you use and amp requirements)

Thanks! I plan on running 1/0 with a 300 amp breaker from the battery to the helm. And then a dual 150 amp fuse block with 4 AWG cable to the amps. Both amps are rated at 600RMS. For power.

Then a 1/0 ground from the battery to a bar at the helm with both amps jumping to the bar.
 
I would go free air.

Looking into the subs now and I know you mentioned free air. Is there a particular (best) place to mount these types of subs in our boats? Was planning on keeping everything kicker, but am open to whatever sounds good and the best place to cut a hole. And then there is what size of sub to go with in a 21' boat. I'm not trying to rattle my teeth or win competitions. Just want to round out the sound with the 8's i'll be installing.
 
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Looking into the subs now and I know you mentioned free air. Is there a particular (best) place to mount these types of subs in our boats? Was planning on keeping everything kicker, but am open to whatever sounds good and the best place to cut a hole. And then there is what size of sub to go with in a 21' boat. I'm not trying to rattle my teeth or win competitions. Just want to round out the sound with the 8's i'll be installing.

On my SX210, I put 2 10's under the bench seat. You never knew they were there.
 
On my SX210, I put 2 10's under the bench seat. You never knew they were there.

Good sound in that location? A lot of what I'm reading says to go enclosure instead of free air on a boat. Thanks for the info.
 
Good sound in that location? A lot of what I'm reading says to go enclosure instead of free air on a boat. Thanks for the info.

Yeah it sounded great. No loss of storage at all. Free air will always be less output then a true sub box, but they sound more natural and take up no space.
 
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