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Has any one else read this post on Yamaha boat owners face book page

my port side pump alignment on my boat was just as bad in the pictures. the cleanout port was hanging down really far and the plate alignment was way off just like pictured. my impellers look just as bad. the stbd side was off about 1/2 the amount as the port. i ended up porting the pump. did all the glass and epoxy work in there to smooth all that out. it made a world of difference with the cavitation however its not 100% yet. if i hit the throttle too fast from a standstill it will will break free. luckily i really dont ever hammer the throttle like that. the last bit of cavitation can be resolved by getting rid of the crappy yamaha impellers. they cavitate even on the best aligned pumps. my pumps from the factory were sealed much better though. yamaha is using a black sealant now that is much tougher than the silicone they used to use.

@paulthepilot what holes are they going to open up? the ones through the transom?
 
BTW - Yamaha has always had those problems with sealing the intake tunnel and the pump segments, it is not new; but this is a pretty extreme example, in a brand new boat nonetheless.

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my port side pump alignment on my boat was just as bad in the pictures. the cleanout port was hanging down really far and the plate alignment was way off just like pictured. my impellers look just as bad. the stbd side was off about 1/2 the amount as the port. i ended up porting the pump. did all the glass and epoxy work in there to smooth all that out. it made a world of difference with the cavitation however its not 100% yet. if i hit the throttle too fast from a standstill it will will break free. luckily i really dont ever hammer the throttle like that. the last bit of cavitation can be resolved by getting rid of the crappy yamaha impellers. they cavitate even on the best aligned pumps. my pumps from the factory were sealed much better though. yamaha is using a black sealant now that is much tougher than the silicone they used to use.

@paulthepilot what holes are they going to open up? the ones through the transom?
^^^^
This would be my approach.

EDIT: EXCEPT - I do not think the OEM impellers are to blame in the 1.8 N/A pump. OEM impellers in non-supercharged 1.8s are the best option, IMO.

Often times, when people swap an OEM impeller which is beat-up, and go Solas or something else, it is a like changing a flat tire, of course the new tire will feel great.

The OEM impellers for the 160mm (1.8) pump have the longest blades of all available mass produced impellers that fit. They are made from fairly soft SS alloy and are easy to damage.
The only thing better (than twin 1.8 impeller) is the 6WC single 1.8 OEM impeller.
IMHO

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now this has me worried. I noticed after putting my CJS on my 255xd i was able to eyeball that one pump is higher than the other. The CJS fins make it easy to see.

Guess ill bring my inspection camera home and see if i can pinpoint if anything looks outta alignment.

Should each pump be exactly the same height in relation to each other? or is it more concerning to be mounted correctly to the mold where they bolt the transom plates to?

Ill get some pics tonight.

you dont really need to worry about one pump being aligned to the other vertically. If they are not it cant be by much and having one pump nozzle1/8-3/16” higher than the other side wont make a bit of difference. you want to look up in the pump tunnel and make sure that all the pieces are aligned properly and the path of the water is smooth.
 
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my port side pump alignment on my boat was just as bad in the pictures. the cleanout port was hanging down really far and the plate alignment was way off just like pictured. my impellers look just as bad. the stbd side was off about 1/2 the amount as the port. i ended up porting the pump. did all the glass and epoxy work in there to smooth all that out. it made a world of difference with the cavitation however its not 100% yet. if i hit the throttle too fast from a standstill it will will break free. luckily i really dont ever hammer the throttle like that. the last bit of cavitation can be resolved by getting rid of the crappy yamaha impellers. they cavitate even on the best aligned pumps. my pumps from the factory were sealed much better though. yamaha is using a black sealant now that is much tougher than the silicone they used to use.

@paulthepilot what holes are they going to open up? the ones through the transom?
After reading your post, I'm a little worried. I just put my pumps back in with Threebond 1211 (white). I ordered black but they sent me white so I used it. I used the 1211 because that's the part # Yamaha shows on the pump for the 195S. No service manuals for the 2021's yet, so I refereed to the 195S manual. Hope I didn't f*** myself. I've read where some people don't even use anything. Note: The original silicone was black as you stated.
 
Your fine. The jet pump tunnel needs to be something tougher than silicone so 4200-5200 or equivalent is fine. The intake grate itself and bolt threads should be silicone so you can easily remove it to get up in the tunnel but the tunnel itself should be something more durable. I saw your post and what you did is fine. It just looks a mess because its white but that doesnt really matter in there. As long as its sealed
 
I believe the pumps are intended to be even however I have heard of ride plates that were off a bit causing drag on previous boats,, I instruct everyone to center their wheel and readjust the nozzles using the twin tie rods so that the angles are correct for high speed steering assistance and proper tracking. Most people tell me the angles are all way off, as for the pumps being parallel I honestly believe that is a serious flaw in the manufacturing process. I have never seen or heard of the pumps not being even with each other on a twin engine boat . That would not only effect the propulsion but the alignment of the drive shaft between the engine and pump unless the engine is also set differently to compensate and that is not happening .
 
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I believe the pumps are intended to be even however I have heard of ride plates that were off a bit causing drag on previous boats,, I instruct everyone to center their wheel and readjust the nozzles using the twin tie rods so that the angles are correct for high speed steering assistance and proper tracking. Most people tell me the angles are all way off, as for the pumps being parallel I honestly believe that is a serious flaw in the manufacturing process. I have never seen or heard of the pumps not being even with each other on a twin engine boat .
if i can get home before this remnants of ida hit NJ ill get some photos and measurements today.
 
This maybe obvious to you and your attorney, but I think you mentioned in another thread/post you received your new 2021 boat in Nov of 2020? If so that means you received one of the very first 252 production run hulls that clearly the mounting hole locations drilled during assembly (computerized drilling, or manually hand drilled via template) were not yet perfected on these first production run boats.
 
Your fine. The jet pump tunnel needs to be something tougher than silicone so 4200-5200 or equivalent is fine. The intake grate itself and bolt threads should be silicone so you can easily remove it to get up in the tunnel but the tunnel itself should be something more durable. I saw your post and what you did is fine. It just looks a mess because its white but that doesnt really matter in there. As long as its sealed
Thanks!
 
Money back or new boat.. or a lawsuit! The boat was terribly flawed in the manufacture..... who knows what other problems will manifest themselves down the road!
 
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After reading your post, I'm a little worried. I just put my pumps back in with Threebond 1211 (white). I ordered black but they sent me white so I used it. I used the 1211 because that's the part # Yamaha shows on the pump for the 195S. No service manuals for the 2021's yet, so I refereed to the 195S manual. Hope I didn't f*** myself. I've read where some people don't even use anything. Note: The original silicone was black as you stated.
I am one of the folks who didn't re-seal the pumps. My old 17 Ar190 wasn't sealed, so after I pulled the pumps on my 20 212 for mantaince (grease the shaft splines) I didn't re-seal with no cavitation or ill affect. I would like to add removing the port pump the first time was a bitch, Yamaha applied a lot of the black sealant. I needed to use a heat gun to warm up the sealant and brake it loose. The reason I didn't re-seal was, if I suck something up I can't remove from the cleanout ports I can pull the pump off on the trailor at the lauch. I didn't want sealant making the task harder than it needs to be.
 
This maybe obvious to you and your attorney, but I think you mentioned in another thread/post you received your new 2021 boat in Nov of 2020? If so that means you received one of the very first 252 production run hulls that clearly the mounting hole locations drilled during assembly (computerized drilling, or manually hand drilled via template) were not yet perfected on these first production run boats.
FWIW, if he did get it in November those weren't the first production runs of the 252's. My 252SE arrived September 10th last year...hull #021 if I'm interpreting the ID# correctly. And, knock on wood, I haven't had any issues with mine. I think the very first batch may have been subjected to extra QC or something.
 
FWIW, if he did get it in November those weren't the first production runs of the 252's. My 252SE arrived September 10th last year...hull #021 if I'm interpreting the ID# correctly. And, knock on wood, I haven't had any issues with mine. I think the very first batch may have been subjected to extra QC or something.
I have a 252S that arrived at the dealer September 20-something of 2020. Have not had these issues, or any other frankly. When I'm down at the boat tomorrow, though, you can be sure I'll be checking! Unfortunately for me, I left her wet-slipped for the first time for a few days between last weekend and this upcoming weekend, during these remnants of Hurricane Ida... hoping I don't have more issues to deal with!
 
FWIW, if he did get it in November those weren't the first production runs of the 252's. My 252SE arrived September 10th last year...hull #021 if I'm interpreting the ID# correctly. And, knock on wood, I haven't had any issues with mine. I think the very first batch may have been subjected to extra QC or something.
Could be, but that is assuming the hulls are assembled to completion in order in which they were popped out of their molds like large yachts. I was referring more to the batch his hull was drilled as they could prep/drill 10's or 100's of hulls stacked them aside for later full boat assembly production runs though out the year. Most manufacturing is done as sub assemblies, meaning you produce the parts in quantity for later assembly, who knows which order those parts get combined.
 
After reading your post, I'm a little worried. I just put my pumps back in with Threebond 1211 (white). I ordered black but they sent me white so I used it. I used the 1211 because that's the part # Yamaha shows on the pump for the 195S. No service manuals for the 2021's yet, so I refereed to the 195S manual. Hope I didn't f*** myself. I've read where some people don't even use anything. Note: The original silicone was black as you stated.

I am not only confused but now really thinking I should cancel my 252SE order. Why are people disassembling their brand new boats? I have ZERO interest in working on my boat. I want to put it in the water, wet slip it for July, August and part of September, then winterize, store it inside, and rinse repeat each year.

I see these posts of you all taking your boats apart when your profile says they are brand new. WTF. I want to be drinking a Huckleberry and Lemonaide Vodka and watch the world go by. Should I pass on the 252SE that we have coming. Not that I am not capable, I've rebuilt engines and swapped out transmissions, axles, etc with cars so I can do it. I just wouldn't want to.
 
I am not only confused but now really thinking I should cancel my 252SE order. Why are people disassembling their brand new boats? I have ZERO interest in working on my boat. I want to put it in the water, wet slip it for July, August and part of September, then winterize, store it inside, and rinse repeat each year.

I see these posts of you all taking your boats apart when your profile says they are brand new. WTF. I want to be drinking a Huckleberry and Lemonaide Vodka and watch the world go by. Should I pass on the 252SE that we have coming. Not that I am not capable, I've rebuilt engines and swapped out transmissions, axles, etc with cars so I can do it. I just wouldn't want to.

Dont stress it. Get your boat. Enjoy.
 
I am not only confused but now really thinking I should cancel my 252SE order. Why are people disassembling their brand new boats? I have ZERO interest in working on my boat. I want to put it in the water, wet slip it for July, August and part of September, then winterize, store it inside, and rinse repeat each year.

I see these posts of you all taking your boats apart when your profile says they are brand new. WTF. I want to be drinking a Huckleberry and Lemonaide Vodka and watch the world go by. Should I pass on the 252SE that we have coming. Not that I am not capable, I've rebuilt engines and swapped out transmissions, axles, etc with cars so I can do it. I just wouldn't want to.
You have to remember that a large part of this forum is for people that are having a problem to be able to ask questions and get advice. By it's nature, it's going to skew towards reporting issues rather than towards reporting non-issues (people don't often come on to forums and start posts that say, "Hey guys, just wanted to let you know my boat ran great today"). I have no idea whether or not the 2021 boats really had an inordinately high amount of issues, or if it just seems that way because of recency bias, and I have no idea if any of those issues might continue into 2022. What I do know (again, knock on wood) is that I haven't had any issues with my 252SE. Literally, the only thing I've had to do to it are put gas in it and do a 10-hour service (oil change). Everything else I've done has been little cosmetic stuff that I wanted to do. And I know there are lots of other people here that have had the exact same experience as me.
 
I am not only confused but now really thinking I should cancel my 252SE order. Why are people disassembling their brand new boats? I have ZERO interest in working on my boat. I want to put it in the water, wet slip it for July, August and part of September, then winterize, store it inside, and rinse repeat each year.

I see these posts of you all taking your boats apart when your profile says they are brand new. WTF. I want to be drinking a Huckleberry and Lemonaide Vodka and watch the world go by. Should I pass on the 252SE that we have coming. Not that I am not capable, I've rebuilt engines and swapped out transmissions, axles, etc with cars so I can do it. I just wouldn't want to.
You'll love that 252SE, don't be discouraged. The reason I had to take my brand new boat apart is because I screwed up on my maiden voyage. I thought it would be a good idea to use my pumps as gravel mixers. It took me almost 3 months to find new wear rings. I got lucky and was able to save the impellers. I got my boat in January, and now it's August and I have 12.5 hours on my boat. But she's beautiful....
 
You'll love that 252SE, don't be discouraged. The reason I had to take my brand new boat apart is because I screwed up on my maiden voyage. I thought it would be a good idea to use my pumps as gravel mixers. It took me almost 3 months to find new wear rings. I got lucky and was able to save the impellers. I got my boat in January, and now it's August and I have 12.5 hours on my boat. But she's beautiful....

I'd like to add I am pushing 100hours on my 252SE with no major issues (knock on wood) A few items I fixed myself, mostly loose bolts.
 
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