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how to Remove the Impellers (for dummies)

Beachbummer

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LOL Even a hair dryer on high for 2 minutes will make a difference if you don't have a torch or heat gun.
 

mrcleanr6

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Sounds like the stainless is galled up and locking together. Stainless threads on stainless threads with no lubrication will lock up and seize on one another. If this is the case then youll never get it apart. Order a new impeller and shaft. If this isnt the case then you can have salt corrosion built up in the threads. With the sound your talking about though it doesnt seem like it
 

FLJetBoater

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Sounds like the stainless is galled up and locking together. Stainless threads on stainless threads with no lubrication will lock up and seize on one another. If this is the case then youll never get it apart. Order a new impeller and shaft. If this isnt the case then you can have salt corrosion built up in the threads. With the sound your talking about though it doesnt seem like it
I already have a new impeller, that's what I'm trying to replace.

Joy....I can't move it, even with a 4 ft breaker bar. I think I'm going to take it to a local shop here tomorrow and see if they can help me get it off. If not, hopefully at least re-tighten it until the new the shaft comes in.
 

FLJetBoater

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mrcleanr6

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If its locked on then there is nothing you can do with it. If the shop heats it up too hot with a torch then they will cook the seals and you have to do a pump rebuild. If you jave to change the shaft then you should prob go ahead and put new bearings and seals in the pump anyway. Parts are cheap for that.
 

FLJetBoater

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If its locked on then there is nothing you can do with it. If the shop heats it up too hot with a torch then they will cook the seals and you have to do a pump rebuild. If you jave to change the shaft then you should prob go ahead and put new bearings and seals in the pump anyway. Parts are cheap for that.
So I know there's a nut/washer inside the cone. Then bearings on both sides of the impeller duct. How would I pull off those bearings and duct from the shaft with the impeller almost right up against it on the other side? Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
 

FLJetBoater

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If its locked on then there is nothing you can do with it. If the shop heats it up too hot with a torch then they will cook the seals and you have to do a pump rebuild. If you jave to change the shaft then you should prob go ahead and put new bearings and seals in the pump anyway. Parts are cheap for that.
Is there a driveline rebuild kit for the 2014 242 LS? I can't find it anywhere.

Also, are there any pump rebuild or shaft replacement threads on here?
 
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mrcleanr6

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i dont believe yamaha puts together an actual kit. i did the pump on my 2016 fzs and i believe i had to just order the parts. it was cheap though. i think all the seals and bearings were only like 50-60 bucks or so. its been a few years so going off memory here. you get that nut off and the shaft has to be pressed out. you need a hyd press. to do the job
 

FLJetBoater

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Where does the inner bearing go? The manual has a different location than the parts diagram. I suppose I’ll see when I pull the duct off the shaft but it seems kinda important :)
 

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swatski

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@FLJetBoater something is not right... They always come off AS LONG AS YOU CAN BREAK THEM. If you did 1/2 turn, the thing should just glide off after that.
Are you sure you are turning it the right way? It's a left hand thread. BTW - I have done it at least 30-40 times so i shoudl know, lol, here is an old pic of one of my setups, and I was using an 8ft cheater bar (an old lift leg)... which sometimes felt like it was just barely enough; I broke that vice in the pic, by the way, doing it once.
in this pic, it is not factory impeller, but same difference, push down as the arrows point to break it
1603769043900.png
 

FLJetBoater

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@FLJetBoater something is not right... They always come off AS LONG AS YOU CAN BREAK THEM. If you did 1/2 turn, the thing should just glide off after that.
Are you sure you are turning it the right way? It's a left hand thread. BTW - I did this 30-40 times, here is a old pic of one of my setups, and I was using an 6-8ft cheater bar... which sometimes was just barely enough; I broke that vice in the pic, doing it once.
this pic is not a factorty impeller, but same difference, push as the arrows point to break it
View attachment 136134
Absolutely going the right way. Basically the same setup as you except the shaft is under the tandem trailer tires. It broke quite easy, with only a 24in cheater. But, once broke it didn’t turn easily at all. I got maybe 1-2 full rotations (which I still had to use the bar for with moderate pressure) then it got harder. I kept trying to go and it got harder and harder. The last time i tried it was an awful stripping sound. Now, I can’t move it in either direction.
It actually felt very similar to the impeller housing bolts into the transom plate (I think they had loctite on them even though it’s not specified in the manual, and they were difficult to get out right to the end) so I just kept going. Now I feel I may have damaged it somehow.
 

swatski

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FOund another pic - this is how @Scottintexas does it, because he's smart!
1603769349515.png
 

swatski

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Absolutely going the right way. Basically the same setup as you except the shaft is under the tandem trailer tires. It broke quite easy, with only a 24in cheater. But, once broke it didn’t turn easily at all. I got maybe 1-2 full rotations (which I still had to use the bar for with moderate pressure) then it got harder. I kept trying to go and it got harder and harder. The last time i tried it was an awful stripping sound. Now, I can’t move it in either direction.
well, at this point - personally - I would cut the impeller off. making sure you do not heat the shaft in the process not to ruin the pump.
 

FLJetBoater

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well, at this point - personally - I would cut the impeller off. making sure you do not heat the shaft in the process not to ruin the pump.
Hmm, it would be pretty difficult to cut through the impeller without ruining the shaft too no?

also when the impeller “broke” it wasn’t like a sudden movement. It just slowly gave way as I put pressure but never truly came loose.
 

swatski

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swatski

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also when the impeller “broke” it wasn’t like a sudden movement. It just slowly gave way as I put pressure but never truly came loose.
that's the part i don't understand, they always break with a loud ping...
If you can not turn it anymore even with some big cheater bar, maybe time to reach for a grinder... yamaha impellers are cheap, as compared to the pump assembly!
whcih impeller are you running? I may have a spare I could just send you.
 

FLJetBoater

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that's the part i don't understand, they always break with a loud ping...
If you can not turn it anymore even with some big cheater bar, maybe time to reach for a grinder... yamaha impellers are cheap, as compared to the pump assembly!
whcih impeller are you running? I may have a spare I could just send you.
I already have the impeller that’s what I was trying to change out. But as some people above suggested it’s really not that much to replace the bearings/seals and repress onto a new shaft (sbt has the shafts for like $300). I’m very wary of cutting through that impeller and not damaging the shaft anyway. My grinding skills are not at that level.
 

swatski

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Please keep us posted, and please post pics!
My 240 is 2016 with about 350 hours on the pumps, so looking at doing the bearing at some point, too.
 

FLJetBoater

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that's the part i don't understand, they always break with a loud ping...
If you can not turn it anymore even with some big cheater bar, maybe time to reach for a grinder... yamaha impellers are cheap, as compared to the pump assembly!
whcih impeller are you running? I may have a spare I could just send you.
My first goal is to get up and running by Friday (for my daughters bday) but then if need be I will cut that thing apart to see what happened
 
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