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Well, sounds like you have a couple of days, maybe use PB Blaster and try to work it out, it's my go to for tough nuts
with a huge cheater bar, as long as the "neck" doesn't round up which it happens...
This is, by the way, the best wrench I ever found for OEM impellers, it can be adjusted to tighten the grip and minimize the chance of slipping and rounding the corners, bought at HD
Well, sounds like you have a couple of days, maybe use PB Blaster and try to work it out, it's my go to for tough nuts View attachment 136138
with a huge cheater bar, as long as the "neck" doesn't round up which it happens...
This is, by the way, the best wrench I ever found for OEM impellers, it can be adjusted to tighten the grip and minimize the chance of slipping and rounding the corners, bought at HD View attachment 136137
Yeah I’ve had PB on it for a day now, doesn’t seem to be helping. And yeah I have a few days but I need to make sure I can source all the parts same day if it comes to that.
my breaker bar has a socket attachment on the end of it I’m not sure this wrench would fit, may need a wrench adapter for it but they look to be a bit longer delivery on Amazon
Another thought... (please don't take offense! but...) if your neck is rounding up is it possible you did not yet actually break the impeller?
In my experience this gap (big arrow) can be as much as 1/4" maybe more; in my experience the biggest challenge with a stubborn OEM impellers has always been with stripping the neck corners... (small arrow). just a thought. I used a huge heavy bar/hollow steel leg off of a large engine hoist - I was sometimes amazed at the ridiculous forces involved in breaking an impeller (while dangling at the end of a 8ft(?) "cheater bar"... crazy!
Another thought... (please don't take offense! but...) if your neck is rounding up is it possible you did not yet actually break the impeller?
In my experience this gap (big arrow) can be as much as 1/4" maybe more; in my experience the biggest challenge with a stubborn OEM impellers has always been with stripping the neck corners... (small arrow). just a thought. I used a huge heavy bar/hollow steel leg off of a large engine hoist - I was sometimes amazed at the ridiculous forces involved in breaking an impeller (while dangling at the end of a 8ft(?) "cheater bar"... crazy! View attachment 136156
I'm not sure....when it first moved it felt more like how a bolt feels when it first frees. Even though the bolt isn't torqued in anymore, it's still really difficult to turn, but not impossible. I got at least 1, maybe 2 full complete turns at that sort of resistance before it started getting much harder.
Thats exactly what happens when stainless galls up on itself. I have had impellers off a ton of times and i have never seen it happen to an impeller and shaft. Typically stainless bolts and nuts but stainless is stainless so it can certainly happen. This is why you may notice on some marine things you will see a stainless bolt or threads with a brass nylock nut on it. Yamaha like to use that combo alot. Always grease or oil stainless threads befre assembly of anything
If you have access to a piping chain vise.. clamp the tool holder in the jaw and at the other end place shaft on a 2x4. I found this makes it easier to work on the impeller
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Dont be scared to use a 4 inch grinder, most will fit a 5 inch cutting thin wheel, the extra depth diameter helps.
Mine was a solas impeller that snapped a fin. And I had 3 Solas tools with me which I broke in a parking lot. I Had no choice but to cut it off.
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I had a different time when an impeller fused to the shaft or gall up like you said. Had to replace the shaft and impeller, ended up building my own puller for the bearings. ( it thought it was just stuck so I got bigger wrenches and forced it off) boy was I surprised.
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If you can get some movement on the impeller I would try Tap Magic (thread tapping oil) and just keep working it slowly. Back and forth.
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When you reassemble. I will always use neversieze. Manual says the white lock tight, but that is what galled mine up
I hate to say it but I am with @mrcleanr6 on this one. My experience with galled fasteners is that once they gall its more trouble than its worth to try and fix. I can't tell you how many failed attempts I've had and time wasted trying to salvage a situation like that (not on jet boats yet but I'm sure it'll happen eventually). Better off to order the parts and build it up new.
I hate to say it but I am with @mrcleanr6 on this one. My experience with galled fasteners is that once they gall its more trouble than its worth to try and fix. I can't tell you how many failed attempts I've had and time wasted trying to salvage a situation like that (not on jet boats yet but I'm sure it'll happen eventually). Better off to order the parts and build it up new.
Right now the plan is to cut off the impeller tomorrow and see if the shaft can be salvaged. If not, can get a new shaft quick from SBT but having an issue locating a rebuild kit with the bearings and seals for this particular shaft.
I wonder if this is the right one but just hasn’t been updated to include all the applications. From what I can see all the parts are the same between a 2012 AR 240 and a 2014 242 LS.
I dont believe the pumps have changed. All the yamaha boats should have the 155mm pump except for mine or any if the svho boats which is the 160. Parts should all be the same. Only thing that i could see change is maybe the shaft length but as for bearings and seals etc, should all be the same
The other thing i would mention is i would seriously look into what the oem parts cost vs this sbt kit which is prob some cheap chinese bearings. The last pump i rebuilt on my fzs which is the 160 pump, the bearings and seals i remember being quite a bit less than that price for real yamaha parts
Right now the plan is to cut off the impeller tomorrow and see if the shaft can be salvaged. If not, can get a new shaft quick from SBT but having an issue locating a rebuild kit with the bearings and seals for this particular shaft.
I wonder if this is the right one but just hasn’t been updated to include all the applications. From what I can see all the parts are the same between a 2012 AR 240 and a 2014 242 LS.
I haven't had time to cut off the impeller yet - I ended up just building a whole new shaft/impeller/pump. The only parts I could have potentially saved off the old one would be the impeller duct (which wasn't that expensive to replace anyway.) Hoping I can get to it in the next couple of weeks if work isn't so busy.
I haven't had time to cut off the impeller yet - I ended up just building a whole new shaft/impeller/pump. The only parts I could have potentially saved off the old one would be the impeller duct (which wasn't that expensive to replace anyway.) Hoping I can get to it in the next couple of weeks if work isn't so busy.