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Hydrophase Ridesteady review and comparison to Perfect Pass

Maybe I missed it somewhere…..does the boat still maintain normal usage of the Connext screen and stock cruise/no wake mode?

Yes, Ridesteady has no issues with either Connext or No Wake Mode. They will both continue to function normally.
 
Wow, thanks so much for the detailed write-up, @brian86992 !

It's so humbling to have such awesome customers. There was a lot of effort in designing Ridesteady well from the beginning, tuning the control system, hardware, software, and features specifically for Yamaha jet boats. It really is meaningful to have people recognize that and then spend the time to write up such a great review publicly. It is very much appreciated! :)

Just to add to your point about where the throttles are set... With Ridesteady, the engines' operating point is set to where the throttle levers currently are. The primary reason we do this is because the engines will instantly slow down with even a little pull back of the throttle. Whereas if the throttles set the absolute max level of the engines, you would have to bring the throttle levers back below where the engine is currently operating at to slow down. This delay can be disconcerting to some, so we went with the "relative" operating mode. This probably isn't the best explanation, but I hope it helps explain it a bit.

The "throttle reset" screen that pops up when you pull back on the throttle levers is actually the system resetting the throttle from a relative mode to an absolute mode, to facilitate return to "manual throttle" with the speed control disengaging.

Yes, we found it important to maintain independent throttle controls at all times. After all, this is one of the major benefits of a twin engine boat - manuverability. If the throttle levers are tied together, of course you lose that. And, should you want to run one engine faster than the other for surfing, that is an option with Ridesteady (you'd want to disable engine sync in the settings, of course).

Thanks again for the review! So many great customers on this board...
When’s the next group buy???
 
Perhaps sometime earlyish next year, but that depends on inventory (which is still constrained in the electronics world).
Ok great, gives me time to get ready. It’s the only thing left that I want for the Yammy. Really need it stock sucks for surfing, great write up @brian86992
 
Yes, Ridesteady has no issues with either Connext or No Wake Mode. They will both continue to function normally.
I want to hop in on this thread here to comment on this usage.

RS doesn't affect the performance of No Wake Mode....HOWEVER, If you are in No Wake Mode you CAN NOT adjust the parameters inside the RideSteady system. I was nearly at my wits end when I first installed the system, as I was trying to multi-task and make adjustments to RS while we were using NWM to get out into the lake. RS wouldn't let me adjust anything. I tried this on several outings and figured I had a bad unit, as this coincided with me storing my boat outdoors instead of in the garage. Thought I got moisture in it or something. Finally sat in the boat with the engine running at the dock one afternoon by happenstance. Had a second so I adjusted the settings in RS and it worked perfectly.

SO......If you need to adjust RS you need to have the engine running and NOT be in NWM. MIGHT also work with key on and engines off, not 100% certain there.

@Ridesteady It would be great if we could get a firmware update to allow us to make adjustments under ~3k rpm or so. I get the safety implications of not watching where you're going and all that, so if you tell me you can't I get it. Also a good chance this is already in the manual and I missed it, so maybe just some bold text to jump out and really get the point across? Also, really good chance ALL of that already exists and I'm just dumb :D
 
I want to hop in on this thread here to comment on this usage.

RS doesn't affect the performance of No Wake Mode....HOWEVER, If you are in No Wake Mode you CAN NOT adjust the parameters inside the RideSteady system. I was nearly at my wits end when I first installed the system, as I was trying to multi-task and make adjustments to RS while we were using NWM to get out into the lake. RS wouldn't let me adjust anything. I tried this on several outings and figured I had a bad unit, as this coincided with me storing my boat outdoors instead of in the garage. Thought I got moisture in it or something. Finally sat in the boat with the engine running at the dock one afternoon by happenstance. Had a second so I adjusted the settings in RS and it worked perfectly.

SO......If you need to adjust RS you need to have the engine running and NOT be in NWM. MIGHT also work with key on and engines off, not 100% certain there.

@Ridesteady It would be great if we could get a firmware update to allow us to make adjustments under ~3k rpm or so. I get the safety implications of not watching where you're going and all that, so if you tell me you can't I get it. Also a good chance this is already in the manual and I missed it, so maybe just some bold text to jump out and really get the point across? Also, really good chance ALL of that already exists and I'm just dumb :D

Ridesteady and No Wake Mode are fully compatible with each other, but you're correct that in practice, when you're in No Wake Mode, you may not be able to go into the settings menu system, as it is locked out above a certain MPH / RPM (and No Wake Mode may put you above those limits).

Yeah, there are safety reasons for that, unfortunately, but better standout print in the manual makes sense. Thanks for your feedback, @2kwik4u !

For clarity, if you're in GPS mode, you can only enter the menu system under 5 MPH.

In RPM mode, you can only enter the menu system under 2000 RPM.

And yes, you can enter the settings menu system with the engine(s) off, assuming you're not somehow moving above 5 MPH. :)
 
Ridesteady and No Wake Mode are fully compatible with each other, but you're correct that in practice, when you're in No Wake Mode, you may not be able to go into the settings menu system, as it is locked out above a certain MPH / RPM (and No Wake Mode may put you above those limits).

Yeah, there are safety reasons for that, unfortunately, but better standout print in the manual makes sense. Thanks for your feedback, @2kwik4u !

For clarity, if you're in GPS mode, you can only enter the menu system under 5 MPH.

In RPM mode, you can only enter the menu system under 2000 RPM.

And yes, you can enter the settings menu system with the engine(s) off, assuming you're not somehow moving above 5 MPH. :)
No Wake Mode, On level 3, is about 5mph and about 2,300rpm for me. Explains why I'm locked out.

I won't liel I was |.....| that close to calling and asking why you sold something for a boat that wasn't waterproof enough to survive being rained on. Then I realized it was user error and cooled my jets a little. Also had a little bit of "Nobody else ever has a problem with these units; WTF is wrong with mine?!?!" happening in my head.

Appreciate the clarification on those details.

I still haven't been able to dial in the response on my profile just yet. I have another thread around here somewhere about it. I overshoot by ~5-7mph every time. I'm guessing this is also user error, but I'm not sure exactly how to stop it at this point as I need full throttle to get a skier up, but then require MUCH less to stay up. If I back down the throttle by hand speed takes a dive and a few seconds to recover. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it's not quite as bulletproof simple as I would like. When I'm on the end of the rope and the wife is driving I just live with the few seconds of terror at 24-25mph on a skate until it settles down to the 17-18mph setpoint........I'll figure it out in the spring :(
 
No Wake Mode, On level 3, is about 5mph and about 2,300rpm for me. Explains why I'm locked out.

I won't liel I was |.....| that close to calling and asking why you sold something for a boat that wasn't waterproof enough to survive being rained on. Then I realized it was user error and cooled my jets a little. Also had a little bit of "Nobody else ever has a problem with these units; WTF is wrong with mine?!?!" happening in my head.

Appreciate the clarification on those details.

I still haven't been able to dial in the response on my profile just yet. I have another thread around here somewhere about it. I overshoot by ~5-7mph every time. I'm guessing this is also user error, but I'm not sure exactly how to stop it at this point as I need full throttle to get a skier up, but then require MUCH less to stay up. If I back down the throttle by hand speed takes a dive and a few seconds to recover. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it's not quite as bulletproof simple as I would like. When I'm on the end of the rope and the wife is driving I just live with the few seconds of terror at 24-25mph on a skate until it settles down to the 17-18mph setpoint........I'll figure it out in the spring :(

In your scenario, I'd try increasing the overshoot parameter first. If you've maxed that out and it's not enough, try increasing the response parameter.
 
I vote for this as well, being local to Austin and being an EE/CS/ME, I would be happy to offer free assembly/testing/part sourcing assistance if needed.

That's quite a degree list! :thumbsup:

Do you have a 2008 AR 230? Unfortunately, our system isn't compatible with this boat, as Ridesteady interfaces with the APS sensor, which Yamaha didn't start putting in until the AR240 series. :(
 
That's quite a degree list! :thumbsup:

Do you have a 2008 AR 230? Unfortunately, our system isn't compatible with this boat, as Ridesteady interfaces with the APS sensor, which Yamaha didn't start putting in until the AR240 series. :(

I do have a 2008 AR230 and dang it, I really don't want to have to build one on my own!

I assume APS is referring to the Throttle Position Sensor? Essentially a potentiometer that senses the opening of the Throttle Blade? Isn't there a way to create this signal? Spit balling here with you mate!

What kind of a signal are you looking for from the TPS?

I helped a community hack an early OBD0 Honda ECU years ago to make it programmable...if there is a will, there is a way!
 
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I do have a 2008 AR230 and dang it, I really don't want to have to build one on my own!

I assume APS is referring to the Throttle Position Sensor? Essentially a potentiometer that senses the opening of the Throttle Blade? Isn't there a way to create this signal? Spit balling here with you mate!

What kind of a signal are you looking for from the TPS?

I helped a community hack an early OBD0 Honda ECU years ago to make it programmable...if there is a will, there is a way!

The APS is the "Accelerator Position Sensor," which measures how far down the throttle levers are pushed.

Unfortunately, it would be a major effort to convert an AR230 to an AR240 type setup. Not only would you have to have an APS sensor but you'd have to have an electronic throttle plate and the computer to control it all.
 
Arrhhhh… guess it’ll be full price if I decide to pull the trigger this year then. Don’t think about boating much when it’s in storage during the winter. Thanks for letting me know @johnso30

Thanks for your interest, @CA Sterling Archer !

The group buy is over for this year, but we're still offering our $100 back for install pics / info, if you're interested.

Of course, if you have any questions you can post on jetboaters.net or email info@hydrophase.com.
 
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