Ok, I think my kit is at my boat. So verify this against the directions to see if it does not make sense:
The two things you mix together are the catalyst (clear bottle) and the gelcoat (can). That is the stuff you need to get in the right proportion. And that is something I have not figured out how to do exactly yet. But I am thinking it is going to involve measuring volumes, not weighing. Probably an eyedropper and a shot glass-sized thing will be involved, I think. I believe the directions called for 2% by volume, so I will be getting an eyedropper full of the catalyst and putting it in with 50 eyedroppers of gelcoat. Good stirring will be critical.
You will need to thin your mixture in order to use a sprayer. The problem here is that usually you use acetone to do that, but the instructions say expressly NOT to use acetone. So, this is where we may need
@Glassman to advise. I have looked on the web some, but all I found was expensive things in quantities I didn't want to buy...
So, to do this, first, get a block and wet block sand with 600 grit or so to get rid of those burs and junk on your repair area. You want to make it as smooth as possible before you begin. Don't worry if you expose more epoxy a little bit. Once basically smooth (and it will not be shiny--don't worry), you are going to want to wipe the whole thing down with acetone. That will clean the surface. Let that dry before proceeding.
Then, you are going to spray. I did it thinning the paste stuff to an impossible degree and it did work ok. It will be better with the stuff you bought, as it is runnier to begin with. Next time I will be using my real sprayer (since I have one), but the Preval will work fine. Get an extra sprayer and can for it, and remove the screen off the bottom of the intake tube before you start. Test on a piece of cardboard so you learn how far to be from your work when you spray. When I did it, it was 8-12 inches or so. You don't want so thick a coat that it runs, nor so thin that it does not cover.
I *think* that the brown bottle is the mold release. You don't stir that in; you spray it on afterward to cover the gelcoat so that it can cure (but remember--I can't find my kit, and I can't read all the bottle in your pic, so verify this part). It keeps the oxygen from the repair area. It is much better than trying to cover with Saran Wrap or plastic. It will cover everything very nicely. Don't worry about hurrying to get it on. Take your time and clean up your leftover gelcoat with acetone (not water). Dry with paper towels and be picky to get everything off. Spray some acetone out of the sprayer. Clean the intake tube. Let it all dry thoroughly. Then put in the mold release and spray that over the gelcoat (it should be pink, I think). The mold release will dry and leave a film coat on the top of your gelcoat. Let that sit overnight.
(oh, if that brown bottle is not the release, then you will want to get some PVA mold release before you start--use it as I set out above; and, of course figure out what the brown bottle is then for before you begin...)
That mold release wipes off with water afterward. Use a damp sponge and some elbow grease. Elbow grease decreases with water, so use water liberally. Once that is all off, things get easy. Now you are down to sanding. Start with that 600 grit, then to 800, etc. After that, I went to polishing compound (I used Griot's #3) with a buffer and it shined up nicely. I finished with Griot's #2. Be forewarned: until that last step, it will look dull and you will think you are really screwing things up with the sanding, but you are not. When you break out the polish, that puppy will shine. And you will be disappointed it is on the bottom of the boat.