• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Impeller and jet pump upgrade

Just one quick question
I’m about to do the tunnel seal and want to remove the intake grate. I do not want to reuse the Allen heads when I’m done. These Allen heads strip too easily if there is corrosion on them then they are stuck.
has anyone used regular hex heads to replace these bolts? Or do I need to use them again?
 
Good day everyone hope all is well
I did all of the upgrades
New stock impeller
Aftermarket pump with plastic wear ring
Also bought a stock pump with the stainless steel ring just in case
L13 nosecone
Ribbon delete
New racing intake air filter
Reverse thrust vector

I installed everything and took it for a test run and man the difference was very clear immediately.
But the boat cut off when giving almost full throttle. I was able to start it again after cleaning the battery terminals (another boater that towed me in told me that the battery was not a marine battery and that I should change it) also he told
Me a part of the problem is that I did nothing charge the battery prior to the test.
I was able to charge the battery and tested the boat again and it did the same thing.
Anyone might have suggestions as to what might be the problem?
Thanks guys and ladies And have a great day
 
Aloha,

Are you saying that while your boat is operating at high speed it completely shuts off (dead in the water) and then starts right back up and will hit high speed again and shut it self off again?
 
Good afternoon.
the boat was at high speed on the test run after putting the new parts and just shut down. I tried to start it a few times but nothing. I took the wires off the battery and cleaned them up and replaced and it started.
I tested again and it did the same thing. But this time it didn’t start no matter what I did.
after getting towed in on removed the key reinserted it and taped around the key switch and it started. I put it back in the trailer andanother boater asked if I charged the battery and the answer was no so he said it has to be the battery seeing that the boat needs enough power to keep it at high speed.
I just purchased a new battery and ordered a proper charger and the supplies to set up a 2 battery system.
not sure if this makes sense.
 
Feels like a bad ground connection somewhere to me. Had a few cars do this over the years. Almost every time I tracked it back to a bad ground or other loose connection somewhere in the system.
 
Well I’m going to go thru every wire from the battery to the dash. Changing all connectors and checking for improperly secured splices.
thank you for the response. ?????
 
A strong and freshly charged battery is always a good thing but once the engine is running a properly functioning charging system should be providing electricity to run the boat and send a charge back to the battery for recharging. Meaning that the engine is running off its own electrical power.

If there is concern about the voltage being sent back to the battery a simple volt meter can be wired to the battery and displayed on the dash. Once installed a useable battery at rest will display 12.00 to maybe 12.5 volts. (enough to turn over the engine) Once the engine is started a larger voltage is usually being being displayed as the engine is sending a slightly large voltage back to the battery.

Chasing down your symptoms to find the source has to start somewhere and checking the cables, especially the grounding is a good start. Be detailed in your inspection of the major (+) and (-) cables and where they lead to. Signs of green corrosion and black oxidation on copper irregardless of them being the source of the problem are reason enough for a thorough cleaning or complete cable replacement.

The volt meter installation for me was one of the simple and most useful DIY's I've. I run dual batteries and the meter clued me in one day that # 2 battery was having problems, it was showing low voltage while running the engine. Sure enough I checked the wiring and the #2 circuit breaker had popped .

Good Luck and keep us posted with your findings as you work this out.

Volt Meter Dash.jpg
 
Thank you for the info. I am in the process of checking and changing cables as we speak. Doing this cause me to see damage on my throttle cable as well and I wil
Have this changed the same
Time. IMEI check Amazon to see if I can find the meter.
thanks again and I will be sure to post any update.
 
Glad to be of help.
 
Back
Top