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Important Scarab/Chaparral/Glastron Info. **Please Read**

As long as you use a JASO oil you will be fine. I've been using Rotella on my boat and ski, and love it. After 50 hours, my oil is nice and clean.
 
Here is the Rotax Shop Manual extract I got from a dealer tech.
@BobJohnson , looks like for your pair of Rotax150 standard API 10W40 oil would be alright.
From experience with my Sea-Doo Challenger, changing the spark plugs with your oil change is worth the 25$ investment for a set of 6 NGK DCPR8E.

upload_2016-2-24_13-11-57.png
 
Ok I will say this again. If you purchase a JASO certified oil, it is good for wet clutch engines (IE. Motorcycle). Rotella is JASO.

http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

JASO MA
  • Valvoline 4-Stroke Synthetic Motor Oil 10W-40 and 20W-50
  • Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40
  • Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oil system for engine, gearbox and wet clutch system. Fluid is non-friction modified.
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

Now, can we put this to rest?
 
[QUOTE="Shell Rotella T6 in the blue bottle.

34384919-bde7-45ff-8f64-d3624d8c30cf._V334775122__SR300,300_.jpg


You can get it at Walmart for about $29 for a gallon.

[/QUOTE]

This is great oil I can attest. I have used this for years in my time attack MR2 2.0L Turbo (3SGTE motor Built by Yamaha). Never had a problem and it never seems to blacken between oil changes, love it! Never used it in the boat, but that might be a good thought.
 
I'm not a BRP owner but have all Yamaha engines in all my snowmobiles and my boat. I was always told to use a synthetic blend for engines that set for while between use. The reason I was told this is because the old dino oil will stick on internals longer protecting them from surface rust and then you also get the benefits of the synthetic oil blended with it. It's always worked for me. Just my .02.
 
Ive been using Rotella in my SVHO FZR for over 100 hours. The oil is amazing, and the engine runs smooth as silk .
 
Look I just did my oil change on my spark, and I'm doing an oil change on my seadoo speedster 150, 1503 rotax, I for many years was told to only use oem, heck even the dealer I got it from doesn't take a chance and also uses brp rotax oem.. I keep my receipts in case of warranty work, why fix what ain't broken? plus a trusted engine mechanic by the name of dr. Honda taught me, always use brp oem synthetic blend kit:

http://store.sea-doo.com/product/962976/295501157/_/XPS_4-Stroke_Oil_Change_Kit
 
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For the internal clutch they may be recommending the "blend" because non-synthetic oil molecules are larger, possibly creating a bit more friction. As to premature wear, synthetic oils, generally have a higher lubricity so, unless there are other additives I think there is credibility on the idea for blended oil for the clutch, but not so much for wear.
I have seen some less than optimal manufacturer recommendations for engine maintenance over the years, but I do think they are doing better on these newer systems. Systems is the key thought here, because there needs to be harmony, which can mean some trade offs to achieve it.
 
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