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Jet Nozzle Alignment

captras

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Was inspecting my 242 today, and noticed that that nozzles looked as if they were slightly off alignment. It isnt much, but was wondering if anybody knows what the distance center to center should be on the nozzles to assure parallel alignment.

Thanks in advance.
 

MidnightRider

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I just use a straight edge across the openings. I don’t think I’m alone in that method.
Remove the steering cable, adjust the nozzles so the straight edge is flush across both openings , then center the steering wheel and adjust the steering cable adjustment rod in or out to match that alignment.

I also adjust for a slight tow-in because it works better with the fin setup I have, but that’s a different story.



Edit: Forgot to mention the Articulating Keel tie rod may also need to be adjusted as a part of the alignment if it is not centered after you are finished aligning the nozzles.
 
Last edited:

John Mcpartland

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What year is your 242? I believe in 18 they turned the nozzles in for the surf setup
 

swatski

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Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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First thing on alignment is to place the controls in forward, with the wheel set straight, then lay a straight edge across the nozzle openings where the water exits , I use a long level for this, if the straight edge does not touch all 4 of the outer edges of the nozzle openings evenly you will need to adjust the nozzle that is out of alignment. I have also found that the original tie rod is usually out of adjustment and it will require some adjustment to get the nozzles set properly, Once you have the nozzles even add a very slight tow in to the setup 1/8 inch is a good setting so that the leading edges of the fins between both nozzles is 1/8 inch closer in the front than at the back trailing edges. Also in regard to removing the steering cables to adjust the nozzles if you have the twin tie rod system you usually do not need to touch the steering cables you can do the adjustment using the tie rods , the nice thing about the tie rods is the setting stays where you put it. If you take hold of either nozzle on a stock boat you can move the nozzle from side to side it has play and the older the setup the more play it will have.
Using the tie rods to set the exact distance between the nozzles will hold that setting much longer, usually eliminating any need to readjust the setting. As for any surf point settings on nozzles, I now have a kit to align the fins while leaving the nozzles pointed inward if you choose to use that setup, also the tie rods will hold those angles better than relying on the steering cables alone.
 
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captras

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captras

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If he has any fins, and the paring steering rod.
If not, I would start with the manual then go by the feel of it.
I’ll post pages from the fsm tonight.

I Do have fins
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Yes @captras but I believe you have the magnum A K system not the Ultimate system shown on your signature here is a post showing the Ultimate A K https://jetboaters.net/threads/cobra-jet-ultimate-ak-w-mega-fangs-plus-review.19567/,
I just started making the Ultimate A K system at the end of last year.
Now I have the NEW Ultimate and Magnum SUPER steering systems but I am getting nowhere trying to get all that listed on my web site.
Here is a link to that information https://jetboaters.net/threads/new-cobra-super-steering-for-all-magnum-and-ultimate-versions-past-and-present.20494/ The focus is MORE slow speed and slow reverse handling without needing to replace the entire system if you already have one of those systems and a second option if you are ordering a system.
 

MidnightRider

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Also in regard to removing the steering cables to adjust the nozzles
This is true, unless you are anal like me and like the steering wheel spokes in a straight alignment when the nozzles are straight. :D
This is the only reason I mention removing the steering cable.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Usually if you center the wheel before making the tie rod adjustments the wheel is usually dead on after you make the adjustments, a trick I use is to clamp a flat piece of wood or a piece of metal to the rudder when it is dead center, make the flat stick contact the ground so the flat surface holds the rudder in place while you adjust the rods if the wheel is off center you will see that immediately before making any adjustments as long as the rudder is at 90 degrees to the back of the boat.
 

MidnightRider

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Usually if you center the wheel before making the tie rod adjustments the wheel is usually dead on after you make the adjustments, a trick I use is to clamp a flat piece of wood or a piece of metal to the rudder when it is dead center, make the flat stick contact the ground so the flat surface holds the rudder in place while you adjust the rods if the wheel is off center you will see that immediately before making any adjustments as long as the rudder is at 90 degrees to the back of the boat.
Mine was at 1:00-2:00 when the rudder was straight from the dealership. Maybe it was just lack of attention with my dealer setup process.
 

captras

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Yes @captras but I believe you have the magnum A K system not the Ultimate system shown on your signature here is a post showing the Ultimate A K https://jetboaters.net/threads/cobra-jet-ultimate-ak-w-mega-fangs-plus-review.19567/,
I just started making the Ultimate A K system at the end of last year.
Now I have the NEW Ultimate and Magnum SUPER steering systems but I am getting nowhere trying to get all that listed on my web site.
Here is a link to that information https://jetboaters.net/threads/new-cobra-super-steering-for-all-magnum-and-ultimate-versions-past-and-present.20494/ The focus is MORE slow speed and slow reverse handling without needing to replace the entire system if you already have one of those systems and a second option if you are ordering a system.
You are correct, Jeff.. thanks
 

tfsnowrider

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First thing on alignment is to place the controls in forward, with the wheel set straight, then lay a straight edge across the nozzle openings where the water exits , I use a long level for this, if the straight edge does not touch all 4 of the outer edges of the nozzle openings evenly you will need to adjust the nozzle that is out of alignment. I have also found that the original tie rod is usually out of adjustment and it will require some adjustment to get the nozzles set properly, Once you have the nozzles even add a very slight tow in to the setup 1/8 inch is a good setting so that the leading edges of the fins between both nozzles is 1/8 inch closer in the front than at the back trailing edges. Also in regard to removing the steering cables to adjust the nozzles if you have the twin tie rod system you usually do not need to touch the steering cables you can do the adjustment using the tie rods , the nice thing about the tie rods is the setting stays where you put it. If you take hold of either nozzle on a stock boat you can move the nozzle from side to side it has play and the older the setup the more play it will have.
Using the tie rods to set the exact distance between the nozzles will hold that setting much longer, usually eliminating any need to readjust the setting. As for any surf point settings on nozzles, I now have a kit to align the fins while leaving the nozzles pointed inward if you choose to use that setup, also the tie rods will hold those angles better than relying on the steering cables alone.
@Cobra Jet Steering LLC , have you attempted to toe the nozzles even more for a surf wake. Id be curious how much it can be cleaned up with and extreme toe (inches). If it works you could manufacture a custom tie rod that allows easy switching between normal ( no toe) and surf (extreme toe ) modes. I'd buy it!
 

Wicked92

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@Cobra Jet Steering LLC , have you attempted to toe the nozzles even more for a surf wake. Id be curious how much it can be cleaned up with and extreme toe (inches). If it works you could manufacture a custom tie rod that allows easy switching between normal ( no toe) and surf (extreme toe ) modes. I'd buy it!
yamaha toes their surfpointe in about 1/2" Stock cables on 242/25x series boats are 11.8" off the pump plate to the eyelet hole. Surf boats are 11.3 left, 12.3 right respectively. Adding anymore toe prob wont help the wave as the collision of both jets in the center will be more pronounced and actually ruin the wave more so. The amount yamaha spec'd out seems just enough to help.
 
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