Jet pump access tray - Preferred Sealant?

[VitaminSea]

Was wondering what everyone uses to seal the access tray after they work in their bilge area. The service manual indicates Silicone.

Currently I am replacing all of the hose clamps, and I plan on removing this tray once a year to ensure I am able to visual inspect all fittings and reapply Corrosion X. It appeared the prior owner used a layer of caulk and then a layer of silicone. Needless to say, it was a pain (and mess) to remove all of the old sealant. Looking to understand if Silicone is the best option or if there are other products that will seal and clean up easily when its time to inspect.

 

[Mike Clark]

I just used white bathroom caulking, mold, mildew proof, I only use GE brand, Dap and others is far inferior in my experience. Has been 2-3 years, and still looks white and seals like the day I did it. Loews - $5.00

They do make a"removable silicone", for doors and windows, that once applied ,can be pulled right off when needed. Use mainly for winter months, then remove in spring. I have used it, works pretty well. Might try that if you plan on doing this every year. Lot easier and no mess.

 

[AZMark]

I used plain old 100% silicone

 

[AZMark]

That tray isn’t really made to be taken in and out very often. I would think the screw holes will eventually loosen up & that panel may develop cracks around the screw holes too. Mine already had a few “oem” cracks.
You can’t apply the corrosion x through the removable hatch?

 

[Beachbummer]

I put some reusable door sealing foam strip on it last time. I also glued strips of aluminum to the boat to give the screws something to hold on to. half the holes were not grabbing anymore. I pull the tray at least once a year to work on something or inspect the area. It's not made to be accessed very often without the fiberglass lip holes getting too big to hold the tray in place.

 

[VitaminSea]

Thanks for feedback and tips. Initially it didn’t come to mind that eventually the screws wouldn’t grip. As for the removable hatch, I could probably get to ~70% of the clamps. From what I recall, the cooling water intakes run on the outside of the clean out ports, so probably will not be able to access those, and potentially the starboard side exhaust clamps.

I really don’t want to have to remove the tray yearly, but want to be prepared to if I feel I need better access to the bilge. Before I secure it up this time, I’m hoping to install a second bilge pump as well some FatMat to the bulk head. Tow valves come to mind, but I’m not certain I’d get much use out of them. I have a hose clamp on board for emergency situations.

 

[212s]

I had a water leak at that tray, so I sealed it up with clear exterior silicone. Mineral spirits will remove residue if you have to open it and then just clean and seal it with silicone again. Dry as a bone in there now.

 

[tdonoughue]

I used a thin silicone weatherstripping around it, so I never have to caulk again there. I pull that thing open way too much for that. Never regretted that decision. I thought it might be too thick, but it compresses nicely and I have had no issues.

 

[212s]

I used a thin silicone weatherstripping around it, so I never have to caulk again there. I pull that thing open way too much for that. Never regretted that decision. I thought it might be too thick, but it compresses nicely and I have had no issues.

That sounds like a good idea if I have to get in there again.

 

[VitaminSea]

I used a thin silicone weatherstripping around it,

Interesting, where did you pick this up?

 

[VitaminSea]

I had a water leak at that tray, so I sealed it up with clear exterior silicone. Mineral spirits will remove residue if you have to open it and then just clean and seal it with silicone again. Dry as a bone in there now.

I think this time around my challenge was dealing with layers of silicone and caulk. The mineral spirts removed the vast majority of the silicone without issue, and a plastic razor was able to lift any remaining silicone that was in direct contact with either the tray or the fiberglass.

Leaning towards clear silicone, but the silicone weatherstripping mentioned above has piqued my interest.

 

[WREKS]

I do not think my clean out tray ever had sealant. Is it necessary?

 

[2kwik4u]

I do not think my clean out tray ever had sealant. Is it necessary?

Not really. Water gets into that cleanout tray by way of the unchecked drain line, as well as splashing from above. Once it's in there some will go out the drain, the rest will drip through the tray interface and into the bilge. Doesn't hurt anything other than adding water to the bilge.

I sealed mine in an attempt to keep as much water out of the bilge as I can. Just a pet peeve of mine to keep as much water on the OUTSIDE of the boat as I can. With two small boys it's a losing battle though.

 

[tdonoughue]

Interesting, where did you pick this up?

Just Home Depot... or might have been Lowe's. Not sure if this was the exact size, but something like this:

Frost King 1/2 in. x 1/4 in. x 20 ft. Brown Silicone Self-Stick Weatherseal SS20BR - The Home Depot

Top-quality weatherseal fills gaps tightly enough to act as a smoke seal. Guaranteed not to harden, crack or freeze for 10 years. Conforms to and seals uneven and very small gaps. It is brown color.

www.homedepot.com

 

[drewkaree]

Neoprene high density adhesive weather stripping.

I bought longer screws, but I'm considering going with bolts/washers. Someone on the board here used speed nuts and weather stripping like I linked to above. I have never had good experiences with those things, which is why I'm considering the bolts/washers route since my hatch cover allows great access

 

[motomandan]

I went up a size on the screws and used this. Easy to install and remove. No leaks it will squeeeze out around it . You can take a plastic putty knife and just scrape off the excess.

Kohree White Butyl Tape 1/8"x 3/4"x30' RV Repair DIY Sealant Tight Door Seal | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Kohree White Butyl Tape 1/8"x 3/4"x30' RV Repair DIY Sealant Tight Door Seal at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[WREKS]

I glued plastic reinforcement tabs around perimeter, superglued flat screen spline to bottom perimeter of clean out tray, and lowered drain lip to eliminate standing water.Waterproofing Clean Out Tray

 

[VitaminSea]

Lots of great approaches here! Thanks for all the feedback and ideas!!

 

[Cambo]

Wow that is funny 17 replies and not one person understands what goes on with the clean out tray and water infiltration . That oval Inspection port that pulls out in the middle should have a stamp not water tight . That thing does nothing to stop water from dumping down into the engine compartment and the drain hole allows water up in that area so sealing just the large removable tray does nothing . Ever pull your drain plug after a rowdy day of boating and water comes out ? This is the main culprit If you don't want water dumping in you need to also seal up the oval inspection port and plug the drain with a cork. Anyone that boats in salt water should seal this up so you don't have the clamps rotting out

Filled the tray with water installed a gasket around the large tray used extra screws a lot of water dumps down from the oval inspection port




put two screws in the oval inspection port water was down to a trickle




More screws in the inspection port sealed it



Filled with water



Completely water tight

 

[tdonoughue]

Actually, my little port has a gasket already. No doubt putting screws to hold it down would make a better seal, but then I would need to undo all of those screws to just get into the little one and see the bilge (or activate my tow valves).

And it is known that water comes up the drain hole. It also goes down the drain hole. So if you plug it, all of the water will go to your bilge eventually (unless everything is sealed as you did). The real solution there seems to be a check valve, not a cork. I have not even done that. Yes, some water will make it to the bilge, but most will drain down the drain before much can get in elsewhere.

Your approach is reasonable to seal everything. However, that has not been my goal nor my approach. My goal was to provide better sealing around the large tray that would not require recaulking each time I pulled it up (but yet not leave it as a seive where water pours through). For me, the weatherstripping accomplishes that goal. Water is not absent in my bilge, but is not very much at all (less than 1/2 gal per day I would estimate). For me that strikes the balance just fine.