Jgorm's 04 ar230 build

[Jgorm]

hmmm...kinda supports our idea that #3 valves stay open when the engine shuts down and moisture from the exhaust tends to rust items in the cylinder.

I can't see the engine shutting down at the exact same position every time.
3 looked cleaner than the others.

 

[Jgorm]

I'm stoked for an easy day! I can only go so many days on 5hr of sleep per night. I test fit the wood, made a couple cuts on a couple pieces, then got it glued and screwed. I'll have to shape it some with the belt sander, but it will be easier with the two pieces glued up. My plan for tomorrow is to drill the mounting holes, drill a few extra holes to pull in the wood to the glass, and 5200 it in. I'll remove the screws when it's dry and patch then with 5200. Maybe I'll get to the throttle tightening while I'm at it, even if i don't remember if it moved at all on my two days of boating before i tore it apart!

 

[Jgorm]

5200'd

 

[swatski]

5200'd
View attachment 71887

I admire your work! Really fun to watch, you are doing it so well.

--

 

[Jgorm]

Pro tip, solder all speaker connections. 2/4 speakers didn't work until i jiggled the spade connectors
.

 

[Jgorm]

I added 3 switches. One for the tower amp, one for the new bildge pump (on, off, auto float), and one for the future. All soldered.
Got the sub in. I ran out of time to test it and I'm off to la to see my sister. The switches are just above the sub. I'll remove the screws and plug the holes once the 5200 cures.

 

[boudin]

Just spoke to the machine shop. Bad news. 2 exhaust seats on #3 are badly corroded (had lowest compression). Probably needs all new exhaust valves and seals. He's going to count how many intake valves i need. Looking at $800 in labor and another 600+ in parts. Too bad they don't sell complete heads! Probably needed another week or 2 to get parts and install.

That's pretty expensive. Have you considered an SBT exchange head? $500 retail + shipping.

https://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/yamaha-head-exchange-kit-fx-140-cruiser-2002-2003.html

-Greg

 

[Jgorm]

Yeah. Sbt talked me out of it. They told me about customer horror stories. I might try them with the fx140 heads that need work, but i might be buying another fx140 so i might sell that one. I've heard so many bad things about sbt.

 

[boudin]

SBT talked you out of it or your mechanic? There were a lot of problems with the older 2-stroke SBT motors... not all SBTs fault though. Folks putting in new motors and not addressing other things that caused the failure in the first place--like properly rebuilding the carbs.

The 4-stroke stuff has been pretty good.

-Greg

 

[Jgorm]

Sbt. They sent me to technical instead of sales. Something about if your head is cracked you need to find then a non cracked head or they bill you 100 bucks a week. He told me thousands in fines was not uncommon! Maybe it was his last day. I found a number of reviews of failures on the mr1 when i was looking into it. Think about how they can do it for 500 bucks if new valves and seals are 600? I suspect a lot of stuff is beyond factory clearance specifications.

 

[boudin]

Yes, you need to have a rebuildable core, which means things like cracked heads or beat up domes (because a valve broke) will be rejected if unrepairable or charged extra if they can be repaired. Email detailed pictures ahead of time and they will tell you. If not repairable, then you'll need to find a good core head--eBay or putting a message in the classified section on greenhulk.net will likely find one.

Keep in mind that when rebuilding a head you are checking to make sure the parts are still within tolerance according to the service manual. SBT does a valve job, and only replaces parts that are out of tolerance. It's uncommon everything needs replacing (valves, springs, seats, cams, etc). SBT uses aftermarket parts, so the parts cost a fraction of OEM.

Rusty exhaust valve stems, causing the valves to stick are pretty normal if the motor has been sitting for a long time. There are ways to unstick them w/o removing the head. If you have rusty seats, though, a valve job is probably needed.

-Greg

 

[Jgorm]

The woofer hits nice! It didn't seem to make a difference in output with the cup holders out. I thought it would kill the bass. Gave up on the port idea.

I got all the stickers removed and wires run for all the switches. I crawled into the ski hatch and its pretty comfortable.


This is my cover support, made it of pcv. The cover came with the boat, but collected a lot of water. I did this a while ago.

 

[Jgorm]

I got the scupper out. I struggled with the pipe to the muffler for 20 minutes, then gave up and did it blind. I cut the end off the $9 wrench someone said to buy. I had to clamp it to the boat so it wouldn't spin. Then i realized I'd need to remove the muffler to install the extra bildge pump i bought. I used a heat gun and 15 different pry tools. I was too lazy to take the cover off and look at the other side of the muffler, so i 5200'd the screw holes and between the hinge that covers the clean out because it was a little shaky. It had been redone in the past with 4 types of screws. I think the scupper might be aftermarket too. It was totally solid. I tried to break it! The silicone was done poorly.

 

[Jgorm]

Got this from the machine shop

I inspected the valves that came off the cylinder head you brought to us. So the exhaust valves have to be replaces. The intake valves are questionable. Some intake valves have corrosion on the bottom surface of the head, and all the valves have pitting on the angle where it seals. These valves look like they have a special hardening coat that cannot be re-faced. I would recommend to replace all the valves. I will attach some pictures showing what I'm talking about. Thank You Cisco @ Motor Works Inc.

Looks like they cleaned up pretty nice. (Before machine work, but after hot tank)



Parts on order

 

[Jgorm]

I took the day off yesterday and sat on the couch after work. Today it was cold and i couldn't get started until 830. I cleaned up the shop a bit, tested the bildge pump, and replaced the crap hose i bought with a kit with a garden hose.

I found some of these spacers on Amazon for 4 for 3 bucks instead of 4 bucks each on Yamaha plaza.

All cleaned up now.

Pump and switch work. I'm wiring with on, off, float switch.


Don't buy this install kit, just but a through hull.

Gotta grind off the excess.

It's close enough to an old garden hose that I'll take a minimum volume reduction for way more security. The house that came with the kit is way too thin.


Same od, less id.

Close enough.

 

[Jgorm]

I'm thinking I'll mount the pump and float on some of that plastic i cut off the trailer and plop it into the sump.

It flows plenty good. I'm never more that 100' from shore.

The stuff hose forms easily with a heat gun.

 

[Beachbummer]

You are already in there... Another bilge pump with some power there,or below the clean out port, could buy you some time when you need it most. Just a thought.

 

[Jgorm]

I took the day off work, but l my wrist is f'd up with carpal tunnel and m trying to take it easy. I try to use my left hand, but that doesn't always work!

There was about 1" of water that i couldn't dump out and i blast the hell out of it every time. There are at least a few chambers and it's easy to understand how water backs up.

I found another nut for a cleat, that makes 4 that fell off! It's probably the aft port cleat. I cleaned out all the dirt in the hull.

Got all that and as few had fills.


I added a spare tire mount.


Some of the stuff i found down there. The clamps are all good, but i haven't tightened them. I'll put the bildge in the rear by the scupper instead of the lowest drain port because it's a pain to remove the muffler. I find it odd that the only pump is in the secondary hull in the engine compartment. It could probably hold 30-50 gallons before that pump even sees water!

 

[Jgorm]

Big progress today.

I gave up on the razor and used a wire wheel. Works way better.

Test fit. I ground more off the top and the outside of the nut. I used a flap disc on the outer part and a grinder in the nut.




All cleaned up


I found ghetto silicone around some wires. I'll 52000'd those.

The amp came packed with nothing in a huge box!

But had good packing on the inside.

I turned the amps 90° so i could adjust them easily. I'm not going to win any install awards, but it's functional. I have 0 gauge and fused blocks on order.

 

[Jgorm]

Some people shouldn't be allowed to work on boats! Non stainless hardware resulted in 100% snapped bolts!





I still need to wire the bildge pump up.

Everybody loves drilling holes in their boat.

I crawled into the rear hatch too many times. You need to reach through the bulk head hatch to tighten the nut. The boat needs a full wet sand, but i got to get it running first.