Just picked up a 2005 SX230 - oil light on I think

[bronze_10]

I read somewhere the whole oil discussion on the mr1 ... the general consensus was to run dino oil. I run 10-40 valvoline... no issues.

Additionally I wonder ifthe issue is with the sending unit... I'm not even sure where it is located but if it is the kind with a wire clipped onto it make surethe wire is attached firmly. Could just be shaking loose. If the issue persists I would think about changing the sending unit.... then u can rule that out.

 

[Gym]

I use a 10w40 blend. While I know you would like to drain every drop of oil It will be much more trouble than you think. Mixing oils is not an issue. Are you positive you have no water in the oil? You would need to run it for a minute or two before checking. It will look milky if you have water.

 

[Whiskey]

I'm pretty shure there is no water in the oil. I checked it three times and looked the same each time, I attached pictures previously in the thread. However, the oil level went DOWN when hot not up. I checked it three times and finally added more while on the water.

Now my parking spot does put the boat slightly tail low. Could that have made me see more oil on the dip stick than I would on the water?

 

[Scuba_ref]

Yes!

 

[Whiskey]

@Scuba_ref this helps. So basically the boat is low on oil. I’m checking the oil level and seeing a false high oil level.

I go onto the water and see and accurate oil level which is low. The oil pressure warning light goes on. I stop and check out and see none in the stick, and add oil twice.

This might have very well corrected the problem and now I have enough oil.

The previous owner (who I trust) honestly has never seen this problem because he had the oil changed last winter before putting it away for the winter. I buy the the boat this spring and see a low pressure warning and we are both puzzled as to what’s going on.

All the boat needs is more oil.

Right?

 

[Scuba_ref]

Very likely. When taking the oil out of the boat as part of an oil change you generally get the bow up to help push as much oil back to where your extractor can reach it, this will obviously make it appear that the oil level is high because more of it is pooled up at the back.

When putting the oil back in you should try to level the boat to the same attitude it would have while sitting in water. Then run it out on the lake to get it warm and check the level - adding more if needed. You really shouldn't need to take any out at that point if you followed the rule of - put back in the same amount you took out.

 

[Whiskey]

@Scuba_ref Thank you! This makes perfects sense.

I would still like to change the oil out to get away from the fresh Car Quest bargain oil that’s in the engines but this makes me think there isn’t a problem - just a low oil state which had now been corrected.

Edit: Not to knock the Car Quest oil, I understand it's great for the money and a high quality oil. I've just always run Mobil 1 in my motorcycles and have always been amazed by it and trust it in the R1 based MR-1 engine.

 

[Scuba_ref]

How'd it end up @Whiskey ?

 

[Whiskey]

@Scuba_ref I'm not worried now about anything being wrong, but don't want to complicate things just in case. We are going to back out tonight and before changing oil (and potentially complicating an issue) I'll make sure I have enough oil in both motors after being warmed up and on the water where I know I'm nice and level.

After that I'll wash the boat down and change the oil and relax in the sun this weekend.

 

[Whiskey]

Just an update. Oil levels have stayed consistant and I think the entire situation was caused by the boat not being totally level on the trailer when checking the oil levels when cold.

Make sure your boats level when checking the oil guys.

 

[djetok]

Just an update. Oil levels have stayed consistant and I think the entire situation was caused by the boat not being totally level on the trailer when checking the oil levels when cold.

Make sure your boats level when checking the oil guys.

When I do a oil change:

1. I change the oil and leave it a little low on purpose with the boat on the trailer as level as I can.
2. I back the trailer down the ramp and hop in. My wife doesn't back trailers (others situations may vary)
3. After I get the boat started and I pull out in the cove after a short warm up. I will check the oil at this point and add if necessary.

 

[Jgorm]

I'll second @biglar155 with a recommendation to stay with conventional. Same thing happened in 2006 Wrangler. The other reason is that is a mega pain in the ass to fully drain the engine. I hope to never do it again. I'd change the oil in the tank, stick a bore scope in there too see the filter at the bottom, and change the oil filter to see if that fixes it. Depending on ids results, you might want to buy a new pressure sensor.

 

[DerekP]

Hey there, I am new to owning a Jet Boat, but its not a new boat either, its a 2003 Yamaha SR230 - well taken care of, always winterized at a marina by the previous owner, stored indoors. I just took it out for my first two cruises this weekend. On the second launch from a cold start from being tied to the dock in the water for 2 days, the port side oil pressure light came on right away with reduced rpm, as mentioned above. Oil is clear but now I think the levels might be a bit high compared to what I read here. I didn't have time to look at anything else - I guess checking the air filters would be a good next weekend when I get back on the boat? If the oil is high, I guess just draining some out would be the fix? Its up on the lift now, dry and pretty much level. Thanks so much - I have a lot to learn... Derek

 

[WREKS]

Normally you just suck out what's in the holding tank where the dip stick is. U put back the same amount u take out.

These engines, being dry sump, do not have an oil pan that collects oil. IMO, it may be better to keep the oil pump and reduction gear box bathed in oil, even if it is a little low quality.

 

[Beachbummer]

Hey there, I am new to owning a Jet Boat, but its not a new boat either, its a 2003 Yamaha SR230 - well taken care of, always winterized at a marina by the previous owner, stored indoors. I just took it out for my first two cruises this weekend. On the second launch from a cold start from being tied to the dock in the water for 2 days, the port side oil pressure light came on right away with reduced rpm, as mentioned above. Oil is clear but now I think the levels might be a bit high compared to what I read here. I didn't have time to look at anything else - I guess checking the air filters would be a good next weekend when I get back on the boat? If the oil is high, I guess just draining some out would be the fix? Its up on the lift now, dry and pretty much level. Thanks so much - I have a lot to learn... Derek

I humbly suggest you create a new thread with your issue to get more visibility. Hopefully it's the oil pressure sensor,as that would be the cheapest fix, but a new thread should get you some educated opinions.

 

[Paulie]

I would like to add another strong vote for using conventional oil. I usually always use synthetic in all my toys and vehicles but when I made the switch on my sx230 I developed some leaks. So, I switched back and the leaks have been slowly going away.

 

[DerekP]

I humbly suggest you create a new thread with your issue to get more visibility. Hopefully it's the oil pressure sensor,as that would be the cheapest fix, but a new thread should get you some educated opinions.

Ok will do, thanks

 

[Sdrolet]

Hello, I have the same exact issue on a 2006 SX230. Have replaced the oil pressure sensor (technically its just a switch according to the manual) I've replaced the air filter, performed and oil and filter change and still runs perfect until it literally hits 5,000rpm exactly. Shut the engine off, light goes away. Start the engine, get up to 5,000rpm and boom, light comes on engine throttles down. Does anyone have a definitive resolution for this?

I also have bought the Yamaha diagnostics software and ECM adapter. Cleared the code, which was nothing informative other than Oil Pressure low.

Should I replace the oil pump at this point or test the oil pressure at or around 5,00rpm?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

 

[WREKS]

Is the oil level between high and low when the engine is warmed up and at idle?

 

[Sdrolet]

Hi WREKS, yes oil level is just below the full and I’ve changed the oil twice now, swapped the oil pressure sensor from the port side to rule that out. How do I test the one wire going in? I tested both switch’s and they read zero, when I pulled it out with positive on top and ground to side of switch.
really at a loss here. I’ve tried everything I could think besides an actual pressure test or replacing the oil pump.