Just picked up a 2005 SX230 - oil light on I think

[WREKS]

@Sdrolet You could take the top of the oil cooler off and check the strainer (part [HASH=4116]#7)[/HASH]. That can be done without removing the engine. I would even reuse the rubber o-rings. They can be spot permatexed, if need be, to reassemble.

 

[Sdrolet]

Hi WREK, Thank you for the response. This is the first thing on my agenda tomorrow morning and will circle back with you. Much appreciated. I also picked up a pressure tester but will try this first.

Thank you, Scott

@Sdrolet You could take the top of the oil cooler off and check the strainer (part [HASH=4116]#7)[/HASH]. That can be done without removing the engine. I would even reuse the rubber o-rings. They can be spot permatexed, if need be, to reassemble.
View attachment 150076

 

[WREKS]

Oil level between full and half: 1st photo shows top of oil cooler removed (hose connected to valve cover comes with it); 2nd shows oil level when between half and full on the dipstick; 3rd shows dipstick between full and half; 4th shows hose above cam position sensor that must be unclamped to remove oil cooler cover. Oil Pump operation

Engine can run without cooling water to accomplish this.

 

[Sdrolet]

well got it all torn down it’s not the pump but the gear and shaft coming out of the reduction drive gear housing. Haven’t take that off but thinking the bearing went and that threw everything out of align. I’ll need another day to get that apart. I’m throwing in the towel for today. Does anyone know of there is a good salvage or refurbished Yamaha Jet boat parts dealer?

 

[WREKS]

@Sdrolet What was the condition of the rubber coupling connecting the driveshafts?

 

[buckbuck]

Wow, never heard of that one before.

 

[Sdrolet]

@Sdrolet What was the condition of the rubber coupling connecting the driveshafts?

I’ve not got back to it yet but will post a pic when I’ve got it out. Would you recommend replacing it regardless? Do you think it could have attributed to it?

 

[WREKS]

It looks like you are already past that point. The engine is out of the boat, correct?

 

[WREKS]

Yes. Check the condition of that rubber coupler. If it is deformed, that would indicate shafts we're not properly aligned. However, shafts could still be misaligned and coupler would not show it. I would check the clearance on the other motor. If it is greater than ½ mm (0.020 in., it is misaligned, and may help indicate what caused the failure.

 

[Sdrolet]

It looks like you are already past that point. The engine is out of the boat, correct?

I have not, I was hoping to avoid that. I’m just an IT guy with some mechanical background and garage monkey. I do t have the means to pull the motor. Is it necessary to get the reduction gear box out? I won’t really have time to get back to it until the weekend.

 

[WREKS]

Sorry, @Sdrolet, I am confused. What am I looking at in Post 44. I did not think one could get to the reduction gearbox without pulling the motor.

 

[Sdrolet]

Sorry, @Sdrolet, I am confused. What am I looking at in Post 44. I did not think one could get to the reduction gearbox without pulling the motor.

As soon as I pulled off the oil pump there were all those pieces in where the screen goes, which the screen itself was missing entirely. One of the pieces is the oil pump reduction shaft at the top where it’s slotted. The hardened steel piece. The other pieces are aluminum. So I’m guessing the bearing went maybe and that threw everything out of alignment. I’ve still not got back to working on it. Probably not till the weekend but will post updates and findings.

 

[WREKS]

Check the coupling clearance. If coupling was out of clearance, this may help explain mechanical failure from too much lateral force placed on drive shaft. That is one hypothesis? Pictures would be helpful including the components had to be removed in order to remove the oil pump.

 

[Sdrolet]

Well just wanted to update everyone on my post. Things were not good for me and my oil light. Amazing the motor still ran and that I didn’t do more damage to the engine itself. Ended up pulling the motor and replacing the entire gear reduction box, oil sprocket, oil pump assembly and bearing. Completely new unit. I’m not sure how this happened. I’m guessing that the end of the oil shaft sprocket broke first and then started to wobble and eventually destroyed everything after that. You can see the cast housing the hardened shaft sits in is completely destroyed.
Good news is, she’s all back together and in the water. I’d say it took me about 20 hours total, and a mechanically inclined buddy with a garage who helped pull the motor 8 hours of his time.
@WREKS I appreciate your responses and posts getting me to the point I knew what I was looking at.

 

[David Martin]

Great Job!!!!!!

 

[WREKS]

@Sdrolet Congratulations on your success! Just trying to trace cause of failure. How did your coupler clearance measure when you reinstalled engine. Did you have to add or remove shims?

 

[Sdrolet]

The couplings lined up great. Within the 1mm tolerance so no addition shims needed. literally slipped right together with the new bushing in place.
Not bad for a IT GUY and a garage monkey. Having the right tools makes all the difference in the world. If your gonna work on these engines, get a right angle impact. Life and knuckle saver.
@WREKS thanks again for the info and your time. I was very hesitant at first to attempt this on my own.

 

[WREKS]

@Sdrolet Well done! Careful with that impact! Loosening only, I hope. ?

 

[buckbuck]

@Sdrolet Good job!
Do you have any pictures?

 

[Sdrolet]

@WREKS CHEERS!!!!

@Sdrolet Well done! Careful with that impact! Loosening only, I hope. ?

yes, for removal and low setting to tighten and then torked. Cast aluminum with stainless bolts = disaster if you over tighten.