Keep the mods coming......Living vicariously through many of you!

[bronze_10]

Let's see.. my list

New fusion 750 .... installed
4 new wet sound 6.5 speakers.... installed
4 rgb speaker rings. .... installed
One rgb Controller..... installed
Rgb wiring ran around the boat... installed
Fusion 200I wired swim deck remote..... installed
New scupper....installed
Scupper water test..... complete
Swim deck mat removed and swim deck cleaned with acetone..... complete
New EZ loaf aluminum trailer.... Installed
Cleaning main cabin floor... incomplete
Installing seadeck........ incomplete
Washing and waxing the boat inside and out.... incomplete

I love when you can start checking items off the list. Next week end I hope to take it to a small lake near my house and give her a spring shake down run.

 

[Ronnie]

I installed the speakers I got from @bobbie . They look and sound a lot better than the original stock ones. I Also replaced the broken boarding strap on the swim platform.

 

[OperationROL]

So, I finally got to do some mods of my own. Believe it or not @OperationRol’s Wife pressured me into upgrading the stereo system. She was spoiled from the previous boat and thought the stock system was terrible. Who am I to disagree? So……I migrated to a 4 zone system by installing the following:

1. Wetsounds WS420 SQ Equalizer (3 zone control)

2. A Level control for the 4th zone (no equalizer options)

3. 2 new speaker locations in cabin (under throttles on starboard and under cupholders on port).

4. 1 Polk Audio 10” 1040 DVC Subwoofer

5. JBL Amp to drive Bow and Swimdeck speakers

6. Polk Audio PAD 5000.5 amp to drive 4 cabin speakers and Subwoofer​

I am set up for the following zones:

1. Cabin

2. Bow & Swimdeck

3. Subwoofer

4. Tower (Don’t have tower speakers yet)​

Right now all the zones are controlled by the WS420 SQ. I am running the Bow & Swimdeck speakers on the tower zone, but will switch it over to the additional level control once I get tower speakers.

Here are some pictures:

Only additions to the battery area are the 1/0 cables that I ran from the house battery to the helm area. I did also add an ON/OFF switch (not pictured) in the storage area behind the captain. This allows me to turn off and on the amps independent of the other house accessories. I am thinking of changing the power source of the Head Unit as well to run off this switch. I would then completely isolate the stereo system to this one switch. However, I am unsure if the HU is wired in such a way that it requires connext to be powered in order for it to be powered. I could just try it and change it back if any issues,



Only complication I ran into was when I was running a new speaker cable to the port bow speaker. I could not fish from the starboard side to the port side so I ended up going the long way around. I ended up running the speaker cables for the port bow, port cabin front (new location) and port cabin rear through the fuel bay:




New Speaker Port Front Cabin:



New Speaker Starboard Front Cabin:




Subwoofer:




Amps in helm storage area. Board secured to the backside of the starboard side seat back. I removed the seat back and installed 4 bolts. The board is secured by cap nuts screwed to those bolts.




Wiring that will be covered with spiral wrap soon:




Wetsounds WS420 SQ and other Level control:

 

[jcyamaharider]

Looks great Neil!

 

[paratrooper39]

I haven't cleaned up my wiring as of yet, but installed a second small amp, bazooka bass tube, cobra fin and new brass drain plugs.

 

[OperationROL]

Nice. How's it sound?

 

[paratrooper39]

@OperationROL for the money and simplicity of installation I'm quite pleased. I also put an amp on the interior speakers just to give them a bit more punch, so combined they sound pretty good, all things considered.

 

[Ronnie]

Installed the kicker speakers with integrated LEDs on the swim deck.

 

[OperationROL]

Very Nice @Ronnie !

 

[Ronnie]

While wiring the speaker leds I used the remaining sound absorbing material with an adhesive backing that I had in the compartment under the swim deck and on the clean out poetry hatch and access cover. Not pretty but it doesn't have to be. Besides it cost me no extra money and only took about 20 minutes to install. I'm hoping it does some good.

 

[Ronnie]

My cobra Ultimates and fangs just came in last yesterday. Can't wait to install and use them, maybe this weekend.

 

[zelone]

I really want to get them fangs, but I need to remember to snap a pic of my fins to determine which I have! My girlfriend got her boating license, and she didn't like the hard steering feel last season.

 

[subysti]

New volume controls for the in boat speakers and tower. No more going through the touch screen.

 

[Mainah]

New volume controls for the in boat speakers and tower. No more going through the touch screen.

Great switch location. How much mounting depth is there in that location and what is the diameter of the switch bezels you used?

I have designed a push buttun start stop system and that would be a great location for the momentary push buttons. The system will work as follows..
1. With keys in on position in supply power to programmable relay boards
2. Short press start button
3. Relay 1 closes circut to port starter for set amount of time (x) then resets; meanwhile relay 2 starts delay (x+.2 seconds = y).
4. After y relay 2 closes circut to starboard starter for x seconds then resets.
5. Stop button is wired to close the safety lanyard circut and when pressed will kill both engines and naturally reset as a momentary push button.

Everything will work as normal with the keys and lanyard but will have the benefit (if choosen instead of keys) of a single short press button that will start one engine then the other automatically with just the one press plus a single button to kill both engines. All while being able to leave the keys in the on position the entire time and being able to repeat the cycle. Of couse it could crank both at the same time with a strong enough battery but why chance a low voltage/current start cycle failure or current overload on the wiring. Plus I think the automatic sequence is cooler. I have aleady ordered all of the parts for less than 50 bucks and will be doing a seperate thread if all works as planned.

 

[Trevor Shipman]

Great switch location. How much mounting depth is there in that location and what is the diameter of the switch bezels you used?

I have designed a push buttun start stop system and that would be a great location for the momentary push buttons. The system will work as follows..
1. With keys in on position in supply power to programmable relay boards
2. Short press start button
3. Relay 1 closes circut to port starter for set amount of time (x) then resets; meanwhile relay 2 starts delay (x+.2 seconds = y).
4. After y relay 2 closes circut to starboard starter for x seconds then resets.
5. Stop button is wired to close the safety lanyard circut and when pressed will kill both engines and naturally reset as a momentary push button.

Everything will work as normal with the keys and lanyard but will have the benefit (if choosen instead of keys) of a single short press button that will start one engine then the other automatically with just the one press plus a single button to kill both engines. All while being able to leave the keys in the on position the entire time and being able to repeat the cycle. Of couse it could crank both at the same time with a strong enough battery but why chance a low voltage/current start cycle failure or current overload on the wiring. Plus I think the automatic sequence is cooler. I have aleady ordered all of the parts for less than 50 bucks and will be doing a seperate thread if all works as planned.

Yep, def gonna need a step by stop how to on this one! Very cool!

 

[Rob9550]

Great switch location. How much mounting depth is there in that location and what is the diameter of the switch bezels you used?

I have designed a push buttun start stop system and that would be a great location for the momentary push buttons. The system will work as follows..
1. With keys in on position in supply power to programmable relay boards
2. Short press start button
3. Relay 1 closes circut to port starter for set amount of time (x) then resets; meanwhile relay 2 starts delay (x+.2 seconds = y).
4. After y relay 2 closes circut to starboard starter for x seconds then resets.
5. Stop button is wired to close the safety lanyard circut and when pressed will kill both engines and naturally reset as a momentary push button.

Everything will work as normal with the keys and lanyard but will have the benefit (if choosen instead of keys) of a single short press button that will start one engine then the other automatically with just the one press plus a single button to kill both engines. All while being able to leave the keys in the on position the entire time and being able to repeat the cycle. Of couse it could crank both at the same time with a strong enough battery but why chance a low voltage/current start cycle failure or current overload on the wiring. Plus I think the automatic sequence is cooler. I have aleady ordered all of the parts for less than 50 bucks and will be doing a seperate thread if all works as planned.

I would love to have a push start on my AR192. Please let us all know when you get it figured out.

 

[MattFX4]

So, I finally got to do some mods of my own. Believe it or not @OperationRol’s Wife pressured me into upgrading the stereo system. She was spoiled from the previous boat and thought the stock system was terrible. Who am I to disagree? So……I migrated to a 4 zone system by installing the following:

1. Wetsounds WS420 SQ Equalizer (3 zone control)

2. A Level control for the 4th zone (no equalizer options)

3. 2 new speaker locations in cabin (under throttles on starboard and under cupholders on port).

4. 1 Polk Audio 10” 1040 DVC Subwoofer

5. JBL Amp to drive Bow and Swimdeck speakers

6. Polk Audio PAD 5000.5 amp to drive 4 cabin speakers and Subwoofer​

I am set up for the following zones:

1. Cabin

2. Bow & Swimdeck

3. Subwoofer

4. Tower (Don’t have tower speakers yet)​

Right now all the zones are controlled by the WS420 SQ. I am running the Bow & Swimdeck speakers on the tower zone, but will switch it over to the additional level control once I get tower speakers.

Here are some pictures:

Only additions to the battery area are the 1/0 cables that I ran from the house battery to the helm area. I did also add an ON/OFF switch (not pictured) in the storage area behind the captain. This allows me to turn off and on the amps independent of the other house accessories. I am thinking of changing the power source of the Head Unit as well to run off this switch. I would then completely isolate the stereo system to this one switch. However, I am unsure if the HU is wired in such a way that it requires connext to be powered in order for it to be powered. I could just try it and change it back if any issues,

View attachment 35543

Only complication I ran into was when I was running a new speaker cable to the port bow speaker. I could not fish from the starboard side to the port side so I ended up going the long way around. I ended up running the speaker cables for the port bow, port cabin front (new location) and port cabin rear through the fuel bay:

View attachment 35544


New Speaker Port Front Cabin:

View attachment 35545

New Speaker Starboard Front Cabin:

View attachment 35546


Subwoofer:

View attachment 35547


Amps in helm storage area. Board secured to the backside of the starboard side seat back. I removed the seat back and installed 4 bolts. The board is secured by cap nuts screwed to those bolts.

View attachment 35548


Wiring that will be covered with spiral wrap soon:

View attachment 35549


Wetsounds WS420 SQ and other Level control:

View attachment 35550

Nice! do you mind sharing details on how you cut the holes for new speakers and sub? I am about to replace all of my factory speakers with JL mx 650's, and add two additional 650's in the cabin similar to yours. Also, I am installing a JL sub in the same place as yours. How did you mount your wet sound EQ? I am also installing a WS420 haha!

 

[Trevor Shipman]

Spray painted the center of the old steering wheel to spice it up a little. Looked very dull before. Happy with the turnout.

 

[OperationROL]

Nice! do you mind sharing details on how you cut the holes for new speakers and sub? I am about to replace all of my factory speakers with JL mx 650's, and add two additional 650's in the cabin similar to yours. Also, I am installing a JL sub in the same place as yours. How did you mount your wet sound EQ? I am also installing a WS420 haha!

Hey @MattFX4 . I used a 5 inch hole saw for the 6.5 speaker holes. Based on what I found on your speaker choice (a very good one, by the way) you also have a 5" cut out. If you do not have a hole saw and don't want to pay the money, you can use a dremel or similar with the attachement to make circles. With the 10" Sub hole, I started that way but ran into issues with the bit loosening up all the time, so I switched to my jig saw and very steady hand. I drew the circle and followed it around with my jig saw. No matter what method you use, cover the entire area with masking tape to avoid much chipping and marring the gel-coat surrounds.

I mounted the EQ straight to the underside of the helm with 1" screws after drilling pilot holes first. I made a hole just large enough to pass the RCA wired through. That hole was tight. I fought with the last few RCA jacks getting through since there was additional wired in the hole taking up space. That hole was right behind the EQ and not noticeable.

For the Sub, make sure you have a ring behind it to mount to. As a matter of fact, I had to order a 3 pack and have no need for the other 2. If you do not have one PM me your address and I will send 1 to you free of charge.

Good luck!

 

[ToddW850]

View attachment 36426
Spray painted the center of the old steering wheel to spice it up a little. Looked very dull before. Happy with the turnout.

Wow, looks really good. What paint did you use? And did you take the steering wheel off to paint it?