Lectrotab Installation - 275SD

[Judge]

After reading many of the older threads I think I am going to add Lectrotabs to my '22 275SD. After swapping some emails with Russ today (as everyone has already stated..... these guys are great to deal with!) it looks like Lectrotab is recommending their 9" x 16" tabs with the short actuators for the latest Yamaha hull design. Russ said the Yamaha's seem to ride the water well and not a lot of tab is necessary to improve the ride. So even though the short actuators have only a 1.5” stroke (compared to the 2.25” of the standard actuators) the short seem to work just as well and they tuck under the deck much better.

I am going to take some measurements tomorrow to make sure I don't see any issues and that I can access into the swim platform for the actuator mount and wiring. Before I pull the trigger, I thought I would see if anyone else has installed the Lectrotabs 9" x 16" tabs w/ short actuators on a 275S or even a 255S since it is similar. I'd be looking for feedback on the installation and performance.

If no one else has done it yet, I guess I'll be the first and post some pictures of the install, etc. Russ said it would take 2 weeks to get the tabs made. I'd like to get them by mid-Spetember because I only have easy access to the boat to install them and complete a few other projects until the end of September.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Babin Farms]

I just installed Lectrotabs on my boat and they work great!! I never really had a need for them until I started boating in big water and they make the ride in chop so much better. Installation was about as easy as it gets as long as you are comfortable drilling holes in your boat. Make sure to post about the installation and how well they help with the ride. Lots of pics too?

 

[Judge]

I just installed Lectrotabs on my boat and they work great!! I never really had a need for them until I started boating in big water and they make the ride in chop so much better. Installation was about as easy as it gets as long as you are comfortable drilling holes in your boat. Make sure to post about the installation and how well they help with the ride. Lots of pics too?

Thanks for the feedback!

I've had the boat for a year but haven't even had it in the water because of Hurricane Ian last year. I'm just getting back from a trip to Alaska and want to get these installed before I get it in the water.

I'm going to be running in the Gulf of Mexico and Intercoastal of southwest Florida and from everything I've read they will help a lot so I'm going to do it while I have access to the boat in a garage before it goes into rack storage.

I've got a friend that got me into boating 30 years ago and he used to run Bennett Trim Tabs and I know they helped a lot but I like the Lectrotab being electromechanical vs hydraulic..... and the Lectrotab guys seem to provide great customer service.

I'll post pics as I work on the install!

 

[Babin Farms]

Just so you know, you will have to provide the hardware(stainless screws) and depending on how you wire it in, some wire and connectors, maybe an inline fuse holder and a small tube of 3M 5200. Make sure to get stainless screws and when you drill through the hull be careful to not go through the water box. Not sure how the 275 is setup but the 230 water box on the port side was right where I predrilled so I had to shorten the screws so they didn’t hit it. It will let you know in the instructions on what size screws and any other info.

 

[Weeb]

I have way less slamming in the chop with mine also and it doesn’t take much trim. I bought them during one of their sales and used the price difference to go with the auto controls which isn’t necessary but I like the set and forget factor especially when people move around in the boat.

 

[Judge]

I was taking some measurements yesterday to send to Lectrotab and noticed something on both sides under the swim platform. One is obvious.... a drain that is likely for any water that gets back into the cavity of the swin platform. The other two look like drains but appear to not be open in the center. Anyone have an idea what they are? Just curious.

I need to verify with Lectrotab that I'm not going to have an issue with the hinge mounting to the transom for the 16" wide tab since the 275 has underwater lighting on each sider of the transom.

I think that I may run the wiring right through the drains so I don't have to drill a hole in the underside of the transom.

 

[zipper]

I was taking some measurements yesterday to send to Lectrotab and noticed something on both sides under the swim platform. One is obvious.... a drain that is likely for any water that gets back into the cavity of the swin platform. The other two look like drains but appear to not be open in the center. Anyone have an idea what they are? Just curious.

I need to verify with Lectrotab that I'm not going to have an issue with the hinge mounting to the transom for the 16" wide tab since the 275 has underwater lighting on each sider of the transom.

I think that I may run the wiring right through the drains so I don't have to drill a hole in the underside of the transom.



View attachment 207162

View attachment 207161

Do you have a ballast filling/drain system? Don't use those for wiring thru hulls. The wiring for the tabs will run thru the mount for the actuator where it mounts under the swim platform. This is how I ran the control wiring from the actuator, thru the hull and to the controller at the helm. Install the mount with screws and drill a hole thru the hull where the existing hole is in the middle of the mount. I did this 6 years ago on my AR230. Should be above the waterline as boats sits static in water. Seal with 4200.

 

[Judge]

Do you have a ballast filling/drain system? Don't use those for wiring thru hulls. The wiring for the tabs will run thru the mount for the actuator where it mounts under the swim platform. This is how I ran the control wiring from the actuator, thru the hull and to the controller at the helm.

View attachment 207163

The 275 doesn't have a ballast system option for it so that's not it.

I saw someone else on here who didn't drill the hole for the wiring and they did run it through another existing opening. I'll talk to Lectrotab later today to see if they recommend against it.

I'm afraid I won't be able to use the 16 x 9 tabs because there is only a 2" gap between the transom light and the bottom of the transom. I think it is going to be too tight for drilling the screw holes for the bottom of the hinge. I'll probably have to go with a 12 x 9 tab.

 

[zipper]

The 275 doesn't have a ballast system option for it so that's not it.

I saw someone else on here who didn't drill the hole for the wiring and they did run it through another existing opening. I'll talk to Lectrotab later today to see if they recommend against it.

I'm afraid I won't be able to use the 16 x 9 tabs because there is only a 2" gap between the transom light and the bottom of the transom. I think it is going to be too tight for drilling the screw holes for the bottom of the hinge. I'll probably have to go with a 12 x 9 tab.

A smaller tab will work. I had 12"x12" and a manual controller and only used 2 indicator lights out of 5 to improve the ride. As far as the wiring...you are already drilling 3 mounting screw holes for that end of the actuator, one more in the middle for the cable will keep a clean look and reduce the possibility of the cable snagging something while underway, as long as nothing is in the way inside the bilge.

 

[Judge]

A smaller tab will work. I had 12"x12" and a manual controller and only used 2 indicator lights out of 5 to improve the ride. As far as the wiring...you are already drilling 3 mounting screw holes for that end of the actuator, one more in the middle for the cable will keep a clean look and reduce the possibility of the cable snagging something while underway, as long as nothing is in the way inside the bilge.

Russ at Lectrotab was recommending the 16 x 9 for the 275SD. I am going to talk to him today about the 12 x 9. He things the 9" depth and short actuator provides for a better installation on the newer hull.

When you mounting the top of the actuator into the swim platform, I assume you just used 5200 and not nuts on the SS pan-head screws? There would be no way to get a hand into the swim platform cavity to install nuts on the 275 swim platform.

I'm going to fish a wire through the drain just to make sure there are no obstructions for running the wire. And as you suggest, I will probably just drill the additional hole for the wiring harness.

 

[Shack]

I just did my tabs on my ar240. Ss pan head screws (#14 1 1/4”) for all fastening. 3m 5200 as well. It really is a clean install with the actuater wire going through the upper bracket. Once you drill the 20+ holes in your boat you won’t mind drilling the 2 extra for the wires. Lol

 

[zipper]

Russ at Lectrotab was recommending the 16 x 9 for the 275SD. I am going to talk to him today about the 12 x 9. He things the 9" depth and short actuator provides for a better installation on the newer hull.

When you mounting the top of the actuator into the swim platform, I assume you just used 5200 and not nuts on the SS pan-head screws? There would be no way to get a hand into the swim platform cavity to install nuts on the 275 swim platform.

I'm going to fish a wire through the drain just to make sure there are no obstructions for running the wire. And as you suggest, I will probably just drill the additional hole for the wiring harness.

Yes, they were screws, not thru bolts/nuts. I was able to mount mine to take advantage of the backing plate used to mount the tie down. The hull is stronger there. You can see the thru bolted tie-down and the point of one of three mounting screws protruding thru the backing plate. Yes, I used 5200 FC. Never planning to take it off. Taken before I ran the control cable.

 

[Judge]

Thanks for the input guys!

I'm trying to make sure I can run the wiring harness before I place the order. It has been a PITA so far trying to run my fishing lead from the stern to the helm. The 275 is sealed up along the gunnel with little access. I was able to remove the ignition and emergency stop housing and can get from there back so I could put it down near the key but I would rather have it higher for easier access.

I am going to need to start the lead at the helm and working it back to the stern to do it right. I am going to see if my brother-in-law can get halfway into the storage compartment behind the helm to find the opening where the main wiring is coming through now. So far I have not been able to hit it myself. That would be ideal but I can get my fat arse in there far enough to see the opening.

Russ doesn't recommend the 9 x 16 tabs after seeing the underwater lights on the transoms won't provide enough room above the bottom of the boat at the transom. He is now recommending the 10 x 14 tabs that have the actuator mount about 5" from the hinge.

I did a cardboard mock up of the 10 x 14 Tabs and sent the picture to Russ over at Lectrotab. I think they will work ok based on what I am seeing so if he agrees, I'm going to place the order..... if I can get my fishing lead set for running the wiring harness.

I had to do this anyway because I planned to also add a Garmin Chartplotter and Transducer so I need to find a way to get my lead from the helm to the stern to run all these wires. The goal is to run all of the wires for the tabs and the chartplotter at the same time.


Oh.... and I figured out those small white plugs are under each side of the swim platform. You won't believe what they are... because I can't believe it. I removed one of the drink holders to get a look inside the swim platform for running the wiring harness. Yamaha put some type of black rubberized sealant under the drink holders to support them. I guess they were worried that a big Yeti or something heavy in the drink holder might crack the gelcoat or fiberglass on top of the swim platform. It looks they drilled a hole in the bottom of the swim platform under the drink holder and installed the white ports. Then they injected the rubberized sealant through the bottom of the swim platform beneath the two drink holders on each side. Not sure why they would do it that way but that's what they did.

If my mock up is close to accurate, the short actuators are going to end up mounting right under one of the drink holders. I will have to poke a hole through the rubberized sealant to run the wiring harness through it.

I can also see I will need to remove all of the drink holders on the swim platform and reseal them. They didn't do a great job at the factory.

 

[Babin Farms]

The wires are going to have to be run from the stern to the helm due to them being sealed in the actuators. I would recommend running a fish tape from the helm to the stern and pull the wires. I would highly recommend running the wires through the bracket as suggested earlier instead of through the drains. The hole is already in the bracket for it to be done this way.

 

[Judge]

The wires are going to have to be run from the stern to the helm due to them being sealed in the actuators. I would recommend running a fish tape from the helm to the stern and pull the wires. I would highly recommend running the wires through the bracket as suggested earlier instead of through the drains. The hole is already in the bracket for it to be done this way.

I am trying to use a fish tape to get it from the helm to the stern but I am having a heck of a time with the 275SD since the gunnels are sealed up pretty well. I even have the fish tape stuck currently and trying to get it back out.

I do plan to run the wires through the actuator bracket but I may have to do a minor mod because of the drink cup situation I mentioned above... assuming I can get the fish tape from helm to stern... but so far... no joy.

 

[VitaminSea]

Can you provide a few pictures from behind your helm? The older models have a “tunnel” under the helm that the steering cables and throttle cables run through. This would run down the center of the vessel, above the fuel tank and then into the engine bay. Realize the 27’s have two engine bays vs one in the center, but thinking Yahama would have some conduit from the helm to the engine bay.

 

[Judge]

Can you provide a few pictures from behind your helm? The older models have a “tunnel” under the helm that the steering cables and throttle cables run through. This would run down the center of the vessel, above the fuel tank and then into the engine bay. Realize the 27’s have two engine bays vs one in the center, but thinking Yahama would have some conduit from the helm to the engine bay.

I'll try to post some tomorrow but I know the main wiring is running up the starboard side of the boat. The power steering and wiring is under the starboard bench seat and when I removed the ignition key / safety module I can feel the large main wiring harness above the opening. I can also see the wiring coming out on the starboard side in the storage compartment in front of / underneath the helm area. The challenge is I can't fit my body inside enough to see any openings against the gunnel.

I have tried using one of the wife's large makeup mirrors and flashlight and I can see the wiring harness coming through the gunnel area under the helm but I can't see a clear opening. I tried for an hour putting the end of the fish tape in different areas around the wiring harness but could not get it in very far. When I tried the last time up higher I got it stuck and couldn't get it back out so I said enough for one day and will go at it again tomorrow.

Before I got it stuck, I was able to put the fish tape in the opening where I removed the ignition key assembly and could run it back to the stern from there. But when I tried to push the fish tape forward to the helm and where the wiring harnesses should be exiting it would only go so far and bind up. I have to assume there is a small hole or opening where all of those wiring harnesses come up the starboard side and exit underneath the helm and it is just tough hitting it blindly.

 

[VitaminSea]

Hmmm…. I know others have mentioned using an endoscope to explore. Something similar to this might be worth picking up, especially considering it’s about $30.

Amazon.com

 

[Judge]

Hmmm…. I know others have mentioned using an endoscope to explore. Something similar to this might be worth picking up, especially considering it’s about $30.

Amazon.com

I already have one actually....... I have used it for some mods and troubleshooting I've done on our motorhome. But hadn't even thought of pulling it out to look into the hole along the starboard gunnel after removing the ignition key assembly. I should be able to look towards the helm... and stern.

Thanks for the suggestion!!!!

I'll be heading out to the shop in a bit to try and get the fish tape unstuck and then pull out the borescope.

My brain and body are fried after justing getting back from a 3-month trip to Alaska. I was behind the motorhome wheel for over 260 hours and 13,000 miles..... plus another 50 hours and 5,000 miles sightseeing in the Jeep!

On that note..... I'll share a few pics from our trip!

 

[Judge]

Made a little progress today. My fish tape was stuck to the point and I had to move from the easy approach to the more involved approach.

I ended up removing the throttle assembly as well as a small console that housed switches for the blower, bilge, blower and nav lights. It tooks some patience and a few layers of skin on my hand and forearm removing the small console but I managed to do it (I have no idea how they installed it at the factory).

I found where the fish tape was cut but I could not get it free. It was wedged between some fiberglass layers and it would not break free so I opted to cut the end.

The good news is I have a little better access and more of a view of where the wiring harnesses run up the starboard side to the helm. I was able to push the fish tape through the console and get it through and under the helm.

The hardest cable I am going to have to pull through will be the one from the transducer since it has a fairly large connector. I ordered a 10' extension cable (which I may need anyway) so I can make sure I can get the pulled from the helm back to the rear seat access or engine compartment.

I won't have to run any wiring to power the trim tab actuators or chartplotter. There are 6AWG power cables coming up to the helm that I can tap into using a terminal block and adding some fuses for each system.