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I'm pretty good at doing my own work.... but I'm also getting older so I will be reaching the point soon of sending stuff out.
I've got a Garmin Chartplotter to install as well so the hardest part is pulling the wires. Drilling the holes in a new boat for the tabs and transducer is a little scary but I'm confident done right with 5200.
Now that I removed some of the controls off the starboard side of the helm, I think I will be able to get the wiring pulled through.
I have way less slamming in the chop with mine also and it doesn’t take much trim. I bought them during one of their sales and used the price difference to go with the auto controls which isn’t necessary but I like the set and forget factor especially when people move around in the boat.
I thought the same when using the trim tabs, "it doesn't take much", after speaking with Russ I found out the controller needed to be calibrated to the short stroke actuator see the info on poat #111 in the link below
I thought the same when using the trim tabs, "it doesn't take much", after speaking with Russ I found out the controller needed to be calibrated to the short stroke actuator see the info on poat #111 in the link below
I just placed my order today for the 10" x 14" Tabs, Short Actuators and ALC-1 Controller. I will have to shoot Russ a note and ask if the ALC will need calibrated like the MLC for the Short Actuators.
I thought the same when using the trim tabs, "it doesn't take much", after speaking with Russ I found out the controller needed to be calibrated to the short stroke actuator see the info on poat #111 in the link below
I thought the same when using the trim tabs, "it doesn't take much", after speaking with Russ I found out the controller needed to be calibrated to the short stroke actuator see the info on poat #111 in the link below
Just talked to Russ and it turns out the ALC actually runs thru a calibration mode where it can identify the stroke of the actuator and adjust automatically. There’s no programing needed for the different speed actuator’s, it adjusts on its own.
They are going to ship the controller and actuators out tomorrow. Then I can at least install the controller at the helm. They are estimating the 1- x 14 tabs will ship out on 9/13. That will give me just enough time to get them installed before I lose access to my shop and get the boat down to Florida.
Just so you know, you will have to provide the hardware(stainless screws) and depending on how you wire it in, some wire and connectors, maybe an inline fuse holder and a small tube of 3M 5200. Make sure to get stainless screws and when you drill through the hull be careful to not go through the water box. Not sure how the 275 is setup but the 230 water box on the port side was right where I predrilled so I had to shorten the screws so they didn’t hit it. It will let you know in the instructions on what size screws and any other info.
You can pull the clean out tray to see where they are or when drilling you can feel when you get through the fiberglass and hit something else. I used a screwdriver and pushed up on it while someone else looked in to see the water box moving.
You can pull the clean out tray to see where they are or when drilling you can feel when you get through the fiberglass and hit something else. I used a screwdriver and pushed up on it while someone else looked in to see the water box moving.
FYI, there is a recession, at least on my boat, between the jet pump tunnel and the sides of the boat. If you pull the cover and use a flashlight you can see it. Mine has held water there. It was more prominent before I resealed my clean out and caulked there. Anyhow, where you are drilling the tabs would be right there. I sucked mine out when I first noticed it a couple years ago and it was between 1-2 gallons.