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loosing your trailer lockout key?

Mine is still hanging from the pull tie that came on the trailer when I bought it. I guess it will rot some day and I need to do something with it. What's interesting is that a few years ago I looked and my top cover was gone. I actually forgot about it and noticed it again a few months later. I was driving by my house with the boat and stopped and pulled over to check the rear straps. I black piece of plastic on the side of the road caught my eye. It was my top cover! At least I know where to find a replacement now.
 
I don't think I ever received one with I bought the boat. This spring was the first time I had any issues with it. I plan to figure out what is going on over the next few weeks. I just use the trailer a few times a year so now that the boat is back in the water I don't need to rush! I did send a note to MFI about a replacement.
 
I still have my key, but the dam thing is always falling off and I end up using electrical tape to hold it in place while reversing into my driveway. (slightly uphill)
Am I missing something?
 
It is designed to fall out when the surge brake is not engaged/ the tongue is not depressed. This will keep you from trailerimg without the surge brake. I used to use tape, considered using Velcro and eventually went with a magnetic version from Craig's list. I also had an oil reservoir out cap that would mechanically block the surge brake from engaging but it would always disengage when I put the tow vehicle in forward, again it was designed this way but it made storing the trailer a pita since it's a rare occasion that I can back it in without moving between forward and reverse, several times.
 
That key is a blessing when you need it, but routinely you should never need it. I am sure this has been said back up the thread, but with normal trailer light hookup, the #7 pin will deactivate the solenoid when the tow vehicle is in reverse, so the brakes will not engage. The key is a fail safe means to back it up when your not using the light connection, don't have one, or it has failed for some reason. It can also be used to lock out the brakes if transitioning long descending grades, such as down a mountain, where the weight and slow speed has the trailer "leaning against the tow vehicle", a condition that will "ride the surge brake" to the point of possible overheat. That isn't something Yamaha or a dealer will tell you, but it has happened to members, so just being aware is knowledge worth having. I also used the brake lockout key once when I had an overheat, found I had a brake caliper locked up, and disabled the brake by pressing the caliper away from the disc...then used the key to keep it from reapplying the brakes. Most of these boats are too heavy to go without trailer brakes, but in a pinch, when the unexpected happens, you can use the key to disable them. But if your having issues backing up with your trailer wiring harness hooked up, look into why it isn't preventing the brakes from activating, because it should.
 
I do not think the 19 ft boat trailers have any electronic disabler. My lights work fine and I always have to use that key to back it up into the driveway.
Maybe it never worked since I bought it so if anyone knows for sure, (and knows what I should check), please let me know and I'll take look at it. sounds like a much better option than what I am doing now.
 
@Eurocat what type of connector do you have on the trailer, 4 pin flat, 5 pin flat, 7 round ?
 
It has a flat 5 pin connector (4 metal plus the one wrapped in plastic), but I am not sure if there are 4 or 5 wires actually coming out of it. I have to use an adapter from the truck from 7 round into the 5 flat.
 
@Eurocat , if you have surge brakes on the trailer, it has a solenoid to block the actuator from applying the brakes when you back up. The surge brake unit is made by Trailer Buddy Products a division of UFP (Unique Functional Products). Their surge brake unit has been on our trailers for years. Now, if you don't have brakes on your trailer, you do not have their surge brake applicator for them. And I know when the 190 first came out, it didn't have trailer brakes. But if you have a lockout key and surge brake unit, you have the solenoid. And this is a common misconception, as guys occasionally don't have the 7th pin to their trailer 5 flat, and it hasn't ever work as it should. Here are a few things to help you identify what you have and how it works. I also included a diagram to help you identify what you have coming from your truck and what your adapter has that converts to the 5 flat. The plugs are mirror image, to show where they meet when hooked together, so don't let that confuse you. You have what you need and don't need to use the lockout key...if your trailer has brakes, and if your wiring is working. If you place your tow vehicle in reverse, y0u should have 12v to the 7 pin on the truck. And the end wire (blue) on your 5 pin is typically reserved to transmit the backup light signal to the trailer.

UFP (California)
135 Sunshine Lane
San Marcos, CA 92069
Telephone: (760) 744-1610
(800) 854-1905
Fax: (760) 744-4709


UFP (Tennessee)
1041 Baxter Lane
Winchester, TN 37398
Telephone: (931) 967-5101
(800) 835-9211
Fax: (931) 967-1828

Home page

http://www.ufpnet.com/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx

Actuators page

http://www.ufpnet.com/Actuators/tabid/54/Default.aspx

7pintrailer.jpg 7pintrailer.jpg
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For those that still have and use the lockout key, a $1 bar magnet from a big box store really helps keep it in place. Better than tape.
I use it only during backing up (needed because I only have a 4-pin wiring harness).
I've also left it on there during trailering with the key out and the magnet hasn't fallen off plus it keeps the key from swinging around.


IMG_7167.jpg
 
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Another cheap alternative is a nickel, which fits perfectly in the spot. Held in by tape but at least it’s only a nickel. I bet a $2 roll would last me and most people at least to boating seasons.
 
This...https://www.amazon.com/Vital-All-Terrain-Surge-Brake-Trailer/dp/B074L5Q9SC
 
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