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loosing your trailer lockout key?

maboat

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If you hassle with using the reverse lockout key that comes the trailer ...


You may want to give this a try...


It replaces the plastic cap that covers the opening to the brake fluid reservoir. You simply rotate it to lockout the brakes (for backing up) and rotate back for normal brake operation.

1. standard plastic cap
photo 1.JPG
2. turn and remove plastic cap
photo 2.JPG
3. insert new metal lockout cap
photo 3.JPG
4. push down lever and rotate clockwise for manual lockout
photo 4.JPG
5. rotate counter-clockwise until snaps to return to normal operation
photo 5.JPG

Or course, the 5th-wire (electric reverse lockout) is the best way, but sometimes you need to manually lockout the brakes and this is much nicer than that stupid key.

I got mine on Amazon :thumbsup:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006UH5ZSY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

txav8r

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So does that thing just block the slide "V" underneath?
 

Ronnie

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I had one of those until someone stole it or it fell out. It does just mechanically block the "v" from sliding back and forth. The biggest problem I had with it was that it would unlock as soon as I put the tow vehicle in a forward gear, not an issue if you can do what you have to without shifting into a forward gear but that isn't the situation I am in. The other cheap alternative is to tape a nickel where the D key normally goes.
 

maboat

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It does just mechanically block the "v" from sliding back and forth. The biggest problem I had with it was that it would unlock as soon as I put the tow vehicle in a forward gear
Funny, that would almost be a feature for people who forget to unlock it. However, it really shouldn't work that way. On my trailer, the knob 'locks' in either position, so it won't move unless you push down the lever and rotate. You can see the two notches for that purpose. Perhaps your trailer didn't have the notches or perhaps your didn't (or couldn't) rotate it clockwise enough to get it snapped into the locked position?
 

Ronnie

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Mine looked just like the one in your pics. I should clarify that it didn't unlock (rotate to the unlocked position) when I shifted into a forward gear, it did so when I shifted into a forward gear and actually moved the tow vehicle forward (taking pressure off of the trailer truck connection).
 

maboat

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Mine looked just like the one in your pics. I should clarify that it didn't unlock (rotate to the unlocked position) when I shifted into a forward gear, it did so when I shifted into a forward gear and actually moved the tow vehicle forward (taking pressure off of the trailer truck connection).
Right, but the knob should "lock" in the backup position. It won't turn unless you push down on the lever on the top of the knob.
 

Ronnie

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I think you are correct about the auto-rotation to unlocked / open being a safety feature. Mine automatically and always returned to the unlocked / open position after I pulled the tow vehicle forward. I checked it and the install out thoroughly. I wasn't heart broken when it got lost or stolen. I think it was under $15 from MFI. When I called to buy a replacement (it a cheap back up to the D key) they didn't have any and they stopped carrying the D key, figures but I'm sure this is a good product for some on this forum. Where did you get it and what does it cost?
 

Wayloncle

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I ordered one of those, my trailer had duct tape instead of a plastic cap, them I lost my 7-5 pin adapter, I didn't get the key with the trailer....anyway, the one I ordered was just a little bit too big. I wound up wiring a 7 pin plug on mine so I never got another cap... So if you order one make sure it is the right size!
 

maboat

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flyin_dutchman

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Pardon my ignorance, but I have NO idea how this trailer brake thing works at all? I see my trailer appears to have lost the plastic cap that covers the opening to the brake fluid reservoir such as in pic #2 of OP maboat's pic thread. So that would make this threads replacement cap desireable. Done deal.
Reverse lock-out key? What's that?
But where my curiosity lies is with how the whole 'trailer brakes' actually work? I have a dual axle MFI trailer with a 5pin to 7poles adapter. On the trailer swing tounge with the light wiring harness, and safety hooks, there is a metal wire connected. One end of my metal wire thing is freyed off? What does this do? Should I be concerned?
 

tdonoughue

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Ronnie

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If you are talking about the wire that leads out of the bottom of the trailers tongue, next to the manual release button, metal tab, that is the emergency brake cable. If the hitch connection fails and the safety chains/cables don't do their job that cable is supposed to activate the trailer brakes (as the trailer separates from the tow vehicle).

The other response is probably to a link on surge brakes. If not, do a search on the term to learn about your trailer brakes. I think its worth the read.
 

BigN8

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I just keep the lockout key in my center console and always have a roll of duct tapeunder the back seat. When I need to use I grab a small piece of duct tape and the lock out key and tape it in place then remove later.
 

Zarrella

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Pardon my ignorance, but I have NO idea how this trailer brake thing works at all? I see my trailer appears to have lost the plastic cap that covers the opening to the brake fluid reservoir such as in pic #2 of OP maboat's pic thread. So that would make this threads replacement cap desireable. Done deal.
Reverse lock-out key? What's that?
But where my curiosity lies is with how the whole 'trailer brakes' actually work? I have a dual axle MFI trailer with a 5pin to 7poles adapter. On the trailer swing tounge with the light wiring harness, and safety hooks, there is a metal wire connected. One end of my metal wire thing is freyed off? What does this do? Should I be concerned?
Since you have the five wire connected via the seven pin plug you do not need the lock out key to back up. The frayed wire you refer to is the emergency trailer brake in the event the truck and trailer separated the trailer brakes would deploy. In most states this emergency brake is required by law. I hope this helps.
 

JimG

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I think you are correct about the auto-rotation to unlocked / open being a safety feature. Mine automatically and always returned to the unlocked / open position after I pulled the tow vehicle forward. I checked it and the install out thoroughly. I wasn't heart broken when it got lost or stolen. I think it was under $15 from MFI. When I called to buy a replacement (it a cheap back up to the D key) they didn't have any and they stopped carrying the D key, figures but I'm sure this is a good product for some on this forum. Where did you get it and what does it cost?
I have been doing a little trailer research as I am preparing to pick up my new boat, and found this on the website for the company that makes the trailer hitch connectors on our boat trailers. From this, it would seem that the lock-out cap automatically disengages, by design, when you drive the tow vehicle forward as many of you have described. If you want to back-up again, you need to re-engage the lock-out mechanism.


UFP Top Lockout Upgrade Cap #34359 ($10.95 each)

This lockout option allows trailers to be backed up over soft ground or up inclines without fully engaging the brakes. The lockout is designed to dis-engage when the trailer is pulled forward after backing up. Therefore it must be manually reset prior to each time you back up your trailer.

34359 UFP Top Lockout Upgrade Cap for A-60 series brake actuators.
Trailer Buddy Products by UFP Brake Top Lockout Upgrade cap
Manufacturer Part Number: 34359
Stock # UFP34359

UFP Top Lockout Upgrade Cap #34359



 

Ronnie

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Funny I bought one for my painted 06 mfi trailer and it fit perfectly. The opening is not the same on the 2010 galvanized mfi trailer as the same device would not work on it.
 

maboat

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It must have changed in newer yeas because mine DEFINITEY locks in either postion and does not re-set when pulling forward. I suspect they changed it to re-set each time as a safety feature since people tend to forget that sort of thing. Its all controlled by notches around the cutout hole. It needs a notch for the cap to lock in a certain postion. My trailer has notches for both positions and I suspect the new trailers only have a notch for the "normal" postition. I actually think its safer the new way, but if you wanted it to work the way mine does it should be possible to add the appropriate notch to the cutout.
 

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