Lucky 13 adjustable pump cone

[Scottie]

 

[swatski]

The base of the L13 is angled, this means the narrow side of the cone base sits on the top side of the hub. This way the tip of the cone will point into the center of the venturi nozzle after install. I would check the tip is centered - in the venturi opening.
This post has pictures:

Hey Guys,

I want to post up results for the Lucky 13 (L13) pump cone as I just got one and have done a bit of testing this week.

The basic idea with the L13 pump cone is it uses a gradual taper design with higher volume that increases pump pressure and thrust and increases performance. But the bottom line is this:

Jerry hit a home run with this cone, if you are looking to gain holeshot and top speed I would definitely look into these!

Before I installed one on my modified SX190, my biggest complaint was the fact that it would blaze the prop up badly on hard take off, and it got worse after Stage 2 Vtech ECU reflash... After I installed the L13 with all the spacers I noticed the prop spin is almost gone and the boat just jumps out of the water, and plans a lot quicker.

The L13 works great with the OEM impeller!!! Lost only about 100RPM but run at the same speed or at a slight gain. The pump cone made the boat feel different - the pump feels more "loaded" and the steering seems more responsive.

Here it is - with all the spacers in. It is well engineered and feels solid and heavy duty.
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Check the difference in OEM and L13 cone sizes - it is substantial.
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The install is pretty strait forward. You do not need to remove the impeller housing and wear ring, just remove the steering nozzle and the factory cone.
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Before installing the L13 base, pack it with some good grease or slurry.
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You can either bolt the L13 straight up with no spacers, or play with different spacers (along with venturi nozzle diameter and impeller pitch).
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You need to remove the L13 cone from its base - held by a single A4-70 Stainless Steel, M8 x 80mm Allen bolt. You also need to move the OEM O-ring, which fits the L13.
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The base is angled, this means the narrow side of the cone base sits on the top side of the hub. This way the tip of the cone will point into the center of the venturi nozzle after install.
View attachment 31601

(Picture distorts it a bit, but the cone is in the center of the venturi nozzle opening.)
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If the weather holds, I will do more testing. It is not a “one-size-fit-all” panacea for holeshot cavitation issues. For example, when I ran the L13 pump cone with a Solas Concord 13/19 prop, which gives me the worst hole shot cavitation, the cone did not help much for whatever reason. But, after testing with OEM impeller, it was a different story all together. Next up is the Skat impeller, which I am having repitched in the factory - will report here when I get it back.

I am POSITIVE that after playing with the spacers, exit nozzle size, and prop pitch this boat is going to absolutely rock!

 

[LX210]

Awesome. Thanks guys that makes way more sense. Got it done this morning. Ready for the weekend! I hope it helps with cavitation like everyone says. I also sealed the intake pump area. At least what I could reach. Did you guys take off the two intake bars that run across the intake? It was tight to get my hand in their with those on.

 

[swatski]

Those bars are just one piece, sometimes they can have leaks around the bolts into the bilge. But if your test is good I’d not worry.

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[LX210]

RESULTS...So put the boat on the water today pretty smooth but a little chop. Just myself and my wife with little on board but a full tank of gas. Hole shot was much much better. However I lost about 3 mph on the top end. Used to get around 47 now getting 44mph max. Maybe I just need to pull the small spacer off and give it another spin. I am also open to buying a tuner if y’all think that is a better option.

My goal is to out run my 2003 LX210 that I sold to my brother in law. I’m still a bit short as it runs 52MPH.

 

[LX210]

Went ahead and ordered the Maptuner X from GreenHulk and a CAI as posted in another thread. Any tips or cautions about tunes?. By of the end of summer I plan on the dedicated IC line to bring the temps down also.

 

[swatski]

Any tips or cautions about tunes?

With the supercharger boat the best advice would be in @SamCF thread on 192 performance mods.

I'm religious about using premium whenever running a tune. If I don't have premium I just switch to the factory, "backup".

I would be super careful not to trip the 12v power source during Maptuner operations, make sure the alligator clips are firmly planted. A disruption in power tends to brick the units, at least the older varieties (please don't ask, lol). It is not impossible to trip those while you contort yourself to access the ECU connectors. I have never had any trouble with the X but I'm very careful about not disrupting power supply in the process.

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[LX210]

Great advice. I will proceed with caution when loading

I also run premium all the time. Have not been on a lake that did not have it as an option but I am going to Lake Norris this weekend so hopefully it is the same their!

 

[steve0617]

Great advice. I will proceed with caution when loading

I also run premium all the time. Have not been on a lake that did not have it as an option but I am going to Lake Norris this weekend so hopefully it is the same their!

What's your normal elevation?

I'm in Denver and have now resolved myself to having to throw money at my 195 to make it usable in July and August when it's hot. So I'm actively watching your results.

 

[LX210]

What's your normal elevation?

I'm in Denver and have now resolved myself to having to throw money at my 195 to make it usable in July and August when it's hot. So I'm actively watching your results.

Im in Ohio so maybe around 800 feet above sea level where I boat. I think I am going to re-visit sealing the intake of the pump again and take off the grate so I can really get my hand in there to apply the silicone.

I told my wife we either get a 212 or I need to dump some money in this one. She wants to push this one to see if I can be happy with it.

 

[steve0617]

Im in Ohio so maybe around 800 feet above sea level where I boat. I think I am going to re-visit sealing the intake of the pump again and take off the grate so I can really get my hand in there to apply the silicone.

I've thought about the grate removal too. Any idea if the bolts on the bottom of the boat are actually screwed into something or are there washers and nuts under the engine? I haven't gotten my face that down there to look.

 

[LX210]

I've thought about the grate removal too. Any idea if the bolts on the bottom of the boat are actually screwed into something or are there washers and nuts under the engine? I haven't gotten my face that down there to look.

It looks like 4 bolts and it will drop down. That is just the 2 bars that go over the intake.

 

[steve0617]

It looks like 4 bolts and it will drop down. That is just the 2 bars that go over the intake.

Right, but putting them back... Are there threaded sleeves in the fiberglass? Or washers and nuts in the engine bay to secure those external bolts?

 

[jEt_jAk]

Going to be getting one of these. What grease do you guys use inside? Also any good tutorials? I have not pulled the stock cone off yet.

 

[2kwik4u]

Right, but putting them back... Are there threaded sleeves in the fiberglass? Or washers and nuts in the engine bay to secure those external bolts?

Mine came off with just the four bolts. Screwed right back in with some silicone on the threads. That was 2years ago and no problems yet.

 

[LX210]

Yep same. As far as the freeze goes I just transferred what was in my stock cone. It had plenty and looked new.

 

[steve0617]

Going to be getting one of these. What grease do you guys use inside? Also any good tutorials? I have not pulled the stock cone off yet.

I haven't done it yet but this is the grease I bought

Yamalube EPNOC Jet Pump Grease

Yamaha Genuine Service Manuals for WaveRunner and sport boat impeller ducts call for the application of Yamalube EPNOC grease during assembly. This Lithium soap, high-pressure grease is ideally suited

rivaracing.com

 

[Maillis]

Any benefit to using the L13 comes in a 210 with the TR-1 engines? Everything I’ve seen is people running these with the 1.8L. Most interested in improving fuel efficiency at cruising speeds (~25-28mph) and top speed.

 

[swatski]

I've thought about the grate removal too. Any idea if the bolts on the bottom of the boat are actually screwed into something or are there washers and nuts under the engine? I haven't gotten my face that down there to look.

Here is a thread with some pictures of the intake grates, those bolt up with allen bolts:

I don't know what they do, but I consistently find even 5200 does not last more than a season, I can usually peel parts of it off. Not the MarineTex - that holds great. I'll be redoing my intakes and pumps this week, already pulled them off - will be using bondo (polyester).

As an aside - also replacing the intake grates, both were cracked/broken. Which is a bit strange as my impellers look absolutely pristine.

I would say, most likely sharpening/honing the grates weakens those considerably. I will not be doing it with the new set.

Out with the old:
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And in with the new:
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[OakleyAK]

Reached out to them and the deal is still going on, don't even have a boat yet but thinking of buying as a boat will be coming soon.

Also, I've seen people talk about the grease to use, yet no mention of o-ring lube. Parker Super O-lube is what we use a lot at work (underwater remote tooling) and it is highly recommend.