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MFI Trailer Rebuild

yamahaar230honewb

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
18
Reaction score
16
Points
72
Location
Annapolis, MD
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2006
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
Guys,
Yesterday a friend and I completely rebuilt our 2006 AR230 Boat Trailer. The brakes were completely gone and one was even missing. Just about everything was rusted so I wanted to make sure it was all good before we really got use out of it.

I logged on here multiple times to see what other people were doing to update theirs so I figured I'd give you guys some info back.
IMG_20160830_151817099.jpgIMG_20160830_151753365.jpg

We replaced the actuator, brakes and lines completely. We bought those parts from TrailerPartsDepot.
Part number 80326 - 60.22 - Brake line Kit
Part number 34033 - 284.63 - UFP Disk Brake Kit 10"
Part number 47723 - 161.07 - UFP A-75 Inner Slide

All of those parts worked great. The brakes connect right to the axle, no extra plate needed and the hub kits fit perfect. The brake line it was great as well. Like most people, the only thing we changed was the bleed line screw to the top of each disk. The inner slide was a equal replacement and it was easy to bleed the brakes etc.

Then for the trailer we replaced the springs, shackles, bolts, pretty much all suspension. We ordered the parts from etrailer.com.
Part Number AP233 - 87.96 - Leaf Springs
Part Number - SP-051275 - 26.50 - Full rebuild kit for bolts, shackles etc.
We bought the Ubolts locally, 5" (4.5's do not fit FYI)
We also bought two new hubs locally and put those on. The exiting ones were so rusted the lug bolts were breaking off when we were taking the wheels off.

The process likely took about 6.5 hours. Not including dropping the boat in the water and leaving it during the rebuild. Most everything was rusted so we used a cut off tool from Harbor Freight on a lot of the bolts and all of the ubolts. Overall the kit that we purchased was perfect and fit the trailer like a glove.

The first two pictures are the old suspension itself. The next two are the finished product.

IMG_20160911_172204624.jpg IMG_20160911_172138992_HDR.jpg

I didn't take any pictures of the actuator, but there isn't much to see there.
 
Great job and welcome to the forum...if u add your location to try our profile it will automatically add u to the user map... just for curiositys sake... how much money do u think u spent on the parts total?
 
Great job and welcome to the forum...if u add your location to try our profile it will automatically add u to the user map... just for curiositys sake... how much money do u think u spent on the parts total?

The parts were likely around 800.00 I drive a Pathfinder so the tow capacity is only 5000 lbs. I wanted the trailer in tip top shape and in with sturdy brakes before really taking it on many trips. I think if we really price shopped it could have been a tad less but the brake kit and actuator were really the majority of the price. The trailer rebuild was likely only about 230 or so.

Ill work on my profile!
 
I had a 2008 mfi that was not n in that bad of shape but was going to need alot of the same work along with bunks and light work.... I said screw it and bought a new aluminum I beam trailer instead for about 3 k.... (not that I am loaded, far from it. Just used my tax refund.) And then sold the trailer for $1100 bucks and didn't have to do all the work! Never thought my wife would go for it but when I told her she is gonna have to help me with the trailer rebuild she was all for it.
 
@yamahaar230honewb good job, thanks for including the part numbers, I'll add this to the FAQ
 
Great writeup, thanks for sharing!
 
I just got done rebuilding my MFI trailer as well. I actually snapped a leaf spring... so it was time. This is a great write up. I ended up replacing just about everything on the underneath of the trailer. The frame is in great shape but the undercarriage was shot! I replaced the axles, hubs, shackles, leafs. I need to replace the brakes including the inner slide and actuator next. My total cost will be roughly $1100. The trailer should now last another 8 years. If I had planned on keeping the boat forever, I would have coughed up the extra cash and bought aluminum. But since I think I am letting her go in the next year or two, I couldn't justify it. Not to mention, my trailer was only worth scrap in the condition it was in.
 
I just got done rebuilding my MFI trailer as well. I actually snapped a leaf spring... so it was time. This is a great write up. I ended up replacing just about everything on the underneath of the trailer. The frame is in great shape but the undercarriage was shot! I replaced the axles, hubs, shackles, leafs. I need to replace the brakes including the inner slide and actuator next. My total cost will be roughly $1100. The trailer should now last another 8 years. If I had planned on keeping the boat forever, I would have coughed up the extra cash and bought aluminum. But since I think I am letting her go in the next year or two, I couldn't justify it. Not to mention, my trailer was only worth scrap in the condition it was in.

Nice, It seems like the majority of people forget about typical trailer maintenance. The part number above worked for me for the brakes. Don't forget the brakes lines!
 
Nice, It seems like the majority of people forget about typical trailer maintenance. The part number above worked for me for the brakes. Don't forget the brakes lines!
I am actually going to order the complete brake kit, comes with lines, actuator, rotors, calipers, and pads. So basically the only thing original on the trailer is the frame.
 
I am actually going to order the complete brake kit, comes with lines, actuator, rotors, calipers, and pads. So basically the only thing original on the trailer is the frame.

I am not sure if you know but I think previously they were DB-42?, now the replacements are the DB-35's, but these kits also include the hubs with built in rotors so you may have miscalculated if you've already replaced the hubs on those axles...these also bolt directly to the stock axle, so if you've replaced the axle and it is a different axle you may need to investigate it more before getting the brake kit. Either way, good thing to repair and have in working order. Im glad we did, now we just need to use it more!
 
I am not sure if you know but I think previously they were DB-42?, now the replacements are the DB-35's, but these kits also include the hubs with built in rotors so you may have miscalculated if you've already replaced the hubs on those axles...these also bolt directly to the stock axle, so if you've replaced the axle and it is a different axle you may need to investigate it more before getting the brake kit. Either way, good thing to repair and have in working order. Im glad we did, now we just need to use it more!


You're right, I was thinking the same thing. I had the axles made at a shop and they installed them so they definitely are not the stock ones. Hopefully there is no variation in them though. I'll take a peak later on. I don't like admitting this but I haven't had functional brakes on either MFI trailer I have owned. I had a 2006 AR230 first and when I picked it up the previous owner handed me the brakes in a cardboard box. The 2008 MFI trailer's brakes never functioned from when I firs picked that boat up. If I weren't pulling with a 3/4 ton pickup I would have been much more hesitant pulling this trailer without proper brakes.
 
I can't seem to find this parts kit anywhere:

Part number 34033 - 284.63 - UFP Disk Brake Kit 10"

Can anyone help me out?
 
I replaced my whole braking system and found trailerpartsdepot.com to be cheaper. For my brake lines, hubs, bearing buddies, bearings and seals it was $360.
 
Thank you @suke !! I have the same trailer as you...should be right.
 
Thank you @suke !! I have the same trailer as you...should be right.
Let me know if you need to replace the slide, lines, etc as I replaced every single bit of it. LOL! This thread actually helped me quite a bit, albeit old, gave me a starting point for parts.
 
That actuator isn't what we have on our trailers. So don't think that part would work out. The rest looks to be the same size, though.

This was the direct replacement for my actuator/slide:
 
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