Milky/Foamy oil in a 2008 AR210 with 825 hours

[cdave2000]

Yep, have it and studied that section. I'm sure it will come in handy once I get in there.
@itsdgm sent me a very well written and detailed step by step document. I'm mostly concerned with physical hoisting of the engine and what parts need to come off to clear the hatch opening, something the service manual doesn't cover well but the document he sent does.
Between the manual and you guys, I'm in good hands.

 

[cybuch]

I pulled the motor out of a FXHO as one unit, just the same as the boat. Its tight but can be done.

 

[cdave2000]

I pulled the motor out of a FXHO as one unit, just the same as the boat. Its tight but can be done.

Cool, thanks!

 

[cdave2000]

Update: Engine swapped and I'm back on the water!

I bought an 06 vx110 deluxe last Wednesday, pulled both engines and put the vx110 engine in the boat on Thursday, and was on the water Friday after aligning the engine and hooking everything up. Here is a brief breakdown:
Thursday:
Removed AR210 engine (about 3 hours). Using a sturdy tree branch, a come-a-long, and 3 ratcheting tie-downs, I pulled the engine with a friends help. The tie-downs allowed me to articulate the engine to get it out of the small opening. The front of the engine had to be tilted up quite a bit. I kept everything that I possibly could intact. I had to cut of the fuel line crimps and pull the fuel line from the intake and cut the fuel pump wire so I didn't have to remove the floor over the fuel tank. I also noted the shims for the engine mounts. Next I pulled the waverunner engine out (1-2 hours).
With both engines out, I checked for differences and realized I had to swap the wiring harnesses (Had to put the ar210 harness on the vx110 motor). It's a lot of connections, but easy to do. Once that was completed, we put the vx110 engine in the boat and the bad engine in my truck for a future rebuild.
Friday:
Aligned the engine and tightened it down (12 ft/lbs is the spec, but it felt like it wasn't enough. I'll re-torque in a few weeks). Connected electrical, exhaust, and cooling lines. Attached the fuel line using 2 ss pipe clamps, replacing the factory crimp fittings that I had to cut. Soldered the cut fuel pump wire and used heat shrink tubing on the joint. At this point I tried to start it and she fired right up first try!

Here's a few notes:

• I was able to keep the exhaust all the way up the the last rubber coupler (before the waterbox), so no gaskets to replace
• Both engines were shimmed from the factory, but were shimmed the exact same way (respectfully). There was nothing for me to do other than place the 4 identical shims back and everything looked good. All the shims did was raise the engine up equally.
• I kept the ecm with the engine, but quickly realized in the water that the 06 waverunner doesn't have no-wake mode. Keep the ecm with the boat, not the engine
• Having the engine hatch cover off is a great time to re-insulate it if it needs it

Overall, the job was relatively easy because of all the great info on the forum, the step by step guide from @itsdgm, a friend to help, and of course the right tools.
Thanks everyone!

 

[Beachbummer]

Very nice. How much was the VX?? I wish you a cheap and fruitful engine rebuild for your soon to be rebuilt engine.

 

[cdave2000]

Very nice. How much was the VX?? I wish you a cheap and fruitful engine rebuild for your soon to be rebuilt engine.

I got the vx for 3k. It had 45 hours and no trailer. It has never left the lake it was on so no worries about salt water damage.

 

[Beachbummer]

Wow, great deal. Almost seems you can just part the left over motor and ski and declare it done.

Great outcome either way.

 

[itsdgm]

That's awesome @cdave2000 congrats.

 

[Jgorm]

Nice work!

 

[buckbuck]

I love the tree rigging. Great job, @cdave2000

 

[jcyamaharider]

Great job!

 

[cybuch]

@cdave2000 nice job with the tree!!

 

[MSans]

Hi to everyone.....I have a 2006 Yamaha SX230 with two MR1 4-stroke. Can anybody tell me witch are the Compression numbers for the engines?.... 150-160-180-190 I really dont know. If there a standard or something in the internet to find it. Thanks for your help.

 

[Jgorm]

Hi to everyone.....I have a 2006 Yamaha SX230 with two MR1 4-stroke. Can anybody tell me witch are the Compression numbers for the engines?.... 150-160-180-190 I really dont know. If there a standard or something in the internet to find it. Thanks for your help.

On the 4 different mr1s (140hp) I've seen 190s cold up to 220 hot, except when mine was not happy and i got 195, 100, 165, 200 on one engine. Needed valve job due to corroded exhaust valves

 

[danzr1]

I know this is an old thead, but I have the exact same crack on my engine. I had it welded, and the cooling passage seemed to hold good pressure, but I'm getting water in oil. I'll be taking the head off to see what's up.

 

[Seadeals]

I am sorry to hear that @danzr1. Let us know what you find. It’s a bummer used ski prices are so high right now. It makes the donor engine approach more difficult to pull off cost effectively. Might be time for a new short block or SBT exchange gamble.

 

[itsdgm]

I know this is an old thead, but I have the exact same crack on my engine. I had it welded, and the cooling passage seemed to hold good pressure, but I'm getting water in oil. I'll be taking the head off to see what's up.

Good luck with your findings and the repair. PM me if you have any questions about pulling the engine, tearing it down, etc. I had the cracked water jacket issue too, purchased a replacement donor engine and have since rebuilt the original engine and it’s sitting here in storage. I’m in Southern California (not sure where you’re located). Let me know if I can help in any way.

 

[danzr1]

I pulled the head off, didn't see anything glaring, and then removed the block. I'm probably going to tear into it and see if the crack is visible. I'm sourcing a replacement engine now from Florida. This is my first 4 stroke teardown, when I split the block, should I should remove the pistons from the crank right? My thoughts are if there is a crack on the inside maybe I can weld it?

 

[WREKS]

@danzr1 It may be helpful to reinstall the head and do a leakdown test.

 

[danzr1]

Yes, I'm in the process. I'm about to make.my keakdown tester, but just now, I putnthrnheqd back on with a thick truck tire tube as a gasket, blocking off the bottom end. Pumped 25psi and it didn't drop for about an hour. I will test more tomorrow, but I really wanted to test the oil cooler, I can hear a small leak in it somewhere. I will test further. Head will be be next. I did have a question, about the water cooling tube that enters the head on top, the oring seemed fine, be looking now, quite a bit of deposit. Anyone ever heard of a leak there?